Vermont has been eclipsed by upscale western and Canadian ski resorts in the past few decades, but to many, it's still the capital of downhill skiing in the United States. The nation's first ski lift -- a rope tow -- was rigged up off a Buick engine in 1934 near Woodstock. The first lodge built specifically to accommodate skiers was at Sherburne Pass.
For the allure of big mountains, steep faces, and a lively ski scene, there's Killington, Sugarbush, Stratton, Mount Snow, and Stowe. Families and intermediates find their way to Okemo, Bolton Valley, and Smuggler's Notch. For old-fashioned New England ski-mountain charm, try Mad River Glen, Ascutney, Burke, and Jay Peak. Finally, for those who prefer a small mountain with a smaller price tag, make tracks for Middlebury Snow Bowl, Bromley, Maple Valley, and Suicide Six. Information on ski conditions is available online at www.skivermont.com.
Vermont is also blessed with about 50 cross-country ski areas, from modest mom-and-pop operations to elaborate destination resorts with snowmaking. Some are connected by the 200-mile Catamount Trail, which runs the length of the state parallel to, but at lower elevations than, the Long Trail. For more information, contact the Catamount Trail Association, 1 Main St., Room 308A, Burlington, VT 05401 (tel. 802/864-5794; www.catamounttrail.org). For a free brochure listing all cross-country facilities, contact the Vermont Department of Travel and Tourism (tel. 800/VERMONT).
The best general advice for cross-country skiers is to head north and to higher elevations, where you can usually find the most persistent snow. Among the snowiest, best-managed destinations: Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, Craftsbury Nordic Center in the Northeast Kingdom, and Mountain Top near Killington.
Inn-to-inn ski touring is growing in popularity. Country Inns Along the Trail (tel. 800/838-3301 or 802/326-2072; www.inntoinn.com) offers a self-guided 5-night trip along the Catamount Trail, connecting three inns in central Vermont, for $725 per person, double occupancy, including lodging and all meals. Customized trips may also be arranged.
