By Train -- Verona is easily accessed on the west-east Milan-Venice line, as well as on the north-south Brennero-Rome line. At least 30 trains daily run east from Venice (1 1/2-2 hr.). Even more arrive from Milan (1 1/2-2 hr.). Trains also connect Verona with Vicenza (30-50 min.), Padua (35-50 min.), and Bologna (2/3-2 hr.).
The Stazione Porta Nuova train station (tel. 045-534-221) is located rather far south of the Piazza Brà (and Arena) area and is serviced by at least half a dozen local bus lines. The bus network within the historic center is limited, so if you have luggage, you'll probably want a taxi to get to your hotel.
To get downtown from the train station, walk straight out to the bus island marked MARCIAPIEDE F (parallel to the station) to catch minibus no. 72 or 73 (tickets on sale at the newsstand in the station or the AMT booth on MARCIAPIEDE A). Get off on Via Stella at Via Cappello for the center. Alternatively, over half the buses from the station stop at Piazza Brà, so just peruse the posted route signs.
By Bus -- The bus station, A.P.T. (Azienda Provinciale Trasporti), is at Piazza XXV Aprile (tel. 045-805-7911; www.aptv.it), across from the train station. Buses leave from here for all regional destinations, including Largo di Garda. Although there is bus service to Vicenza, Padua, and Venice (only the summertime departures for Venice are direct; in other months, there's a change), it is generally easier to travel by train.
By Car -- The Serenissima autostrada (A4) links Venice and Milan; the exit for downtown Verona is Verona Sud. Coming from the north or south, use the A22 autostrada, taking exit Verona Nord.
A central tourist office is at Via degli Alpini 9, adjacent to the Arena off Piazza Brà (tel. 045-806-8680; fax 045-801-0682), open Monday to Saturday 9am to 7pm and Sunday 10am to 4pm. A small office at the train station (tel. 045-800-0861) is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 7pm and Sunday 9am to 3pm. Visit their website at www.tourism.verona.it.
Guided Tours -- An air-conditioned bus turistico, called "Romeo," departs thrice daily for a 1 1/2-hour Giro Turistico tour of the city's historic center every day except Monday from June 1 until September 28. The cost is 15€ for adults and 7€ for children under 18 for a recorded spiel in four languages; you can buy your ticket on the bus. It leaves from the Gran Guardia in the Piazza Brà at 10am, 11:30am, 1pm, and 3:30pm (an evening tour leaves at 9pm on Sat and Sun). The 3:30pm Saturday afternoon tour has a real, live tour guide that ups the cost to 20€. I think you'll do just as well (if not better) with this guidebook, however.
The city lies alongside the banks of an S-shaped curve in the Adige River. As far as the average visitor is concerned, everything of interest -- with the exception of the Teatro Romano -- is found in the centro storico on the south side of the river's loop; there's no site that cannot be easily and enjoyably reached by foot.
The massive ancient Roman amphitheater, the Arena, sits at the southern end of the city's hub in the airy cafe-ringed Piazza Brà. The piazza is linked by the popular Via Mazzini pedestrian thoroughfare to the Piazza delle Erbe and its adjacent Piazza dei Signori. The grid of pedestrian-only streets between is lined with shops and cafes that make up the principal strolling and window-shopping destinations in town.
Slightly out of this loop (though still an easy walk) is the Basilica San Zeno Maggiore, west of the Arena, and Juliet's Tomb, southeast of the Arena (only die-hard Juliet fans will appreciate the trek here). Both the train station and the Fiera di Verona conference center are located in the southern part of town beyond the Porta Nuova.
Verona lends itself to walking and strolling, and most sites are concentrated within a few history-steeped blocks of each other. Venture off the store-lined treadmill and seek out the narrow, cobblestoned side streets that are evocative of eras past. Little to no traffic is permitted in town, so upon arrival, stash your car in a parking area suggested by your hotel (where they'll most likely have a special arrangement), and let your feet do the transporting.
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