Frommer's Review
A 5-minute walk west of the Arena on the Via Roma and nestled on the banks of the swift-flowing Adige River, the "Old Castle" is a crenelated fairy tale of brick towers and turrets, protecting the bridge behind it. It was commissioned in 1354 by the Scaligeri warlord Cangrande II to serve the dual role of residential palace and military stronghold. It survived centuries of occupation by the Visconti family, the Serene Republic of Venice, and then Napoleon, only to be destroyed by the Germans during World War II. Its restoration was initiated in 1958 by the acclaimed Venetian architect Carlos Scarpa, and it reopened in 1964.
The ground-floor rooms, displaying statues and carvings of the Middle Ages, lead to alleyways, vaulted halls, multileveled floors, and stairs, all as architecturally arresting as the Venetian masterworks from the 14th to 18th centuries -- notably those by Tintoretto, Tiepolo, Veronese, Bellini, and the Verona-born Pisanello -- found throughout. Don't miss the large courtyard with the equestrian statue of the warlord Cangrande I with a peculiar dragon's head affixed to his back (actually his armor's helmet, removed from his head and resting behind him).
A stroll across the pedestrian bridge behind the castle affords you a fine view of the castle, the Ponte Scaligeri (built in 1355 and also destroyed during World War II; it was reconstructed using the original materials), and the river's banks.
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