Regions in Brief

The Phlegrian Fields

18km (11 miles) W of Naples

The peninsula that flanks the Gulf of Naples to the west is a land of hills, craters, lagoons, and tarns. Sprawling urban development fostered by the proximity of Naples tarnished its original charm, and the area was officially established as a national park in 1993 to protect it from further development. On the positive side, urban sprawl could not take away the magnificent views over the Gulf of Naples and the islands of Ischia and Procida that make this peninsula one of the most scenic spots on Earth.

Named the "burning fields" during antiquity because of its boiling mud craters, this area was highly prized during Greek and Roman times for its warm and hot springs, its fertile soil, and good harbors. Excavations have brought to light many ruins and archaeological remains. Highlights here are Pozzuoli, with its amphitheater and temples; Baia with its submerged Roman city; and Cuma, with its Sybilla Cave and Greek ruins.

Pozzuoli

This lively small town was once the Greek colony of Dicearchia, founded in 530 B.C.; it then became the Roman Puteoli in 194 B.C., an important Roman harbor favored by the Roman emperors over Partenope (Naples), which had maintained closer allegiance to Greece. The town was destroyed by the barbarian Alaric in A.D. 410, but the acropolis, on a tufa-stone promontory protruding over the sea, continued to be inhabited, and Pozzuoli slowly developed around it. Because the town is just a few kilometers from Naples, you'd expect it to be downright suburban, but it maintains a life of its own -- even though many of its residents commute to Naples for work each day. The town boasts unique monuments from its past as well as sweeping views over the sea and the islands of Ischia and Procida in one direction, and the island of Nisita (linked to the mainland by a causeway) on the other.

Visitor Information -- The tourist office, Via Campi Flegrei 3, 80078 Napoli (tel. 081-5262419; www.infocampiflegrei.it), dispenses information on Pozzuoli, the Phlegrean Fields region, and the province of Naples and its islands.

Getting There -- Pozzuoli is very well connected by public transportation to Naples and the islands, particularly to Ischia and Procida. The most scenic way to arrive in Pozzuoli is by city bus: No. 152 starts in Piazza Garibaldi near Naples's Stazione Centrale and traverses the whole city, following the shoreline to the center of Pozzuoli -- picturesque, but slow. Less scenic but faster is the Metro (line 2) or the Cumana Railroad (tel. 800-001616), starting from Piazza Montesanto.

In summer, another option is the commuter ferry run by Metrò del Mare (tel. 199-446644; www.metrodelmare.com). Water taxi service is by Taxi del Mare (tel. 081-8773600; www.taxidelmare.it).

Getting Around -- Taxis (tel. 081-5265800) operate from a stand in Piazza della Repubblica. You can also use the buses operated by Consorzio Trasporti Pubblici (tel. 081-5265321; www.ctpn.it) and SEPSA (tel. 800-001616; www.sepsa.it), with several lines connecting the train and Metro stations to the harbor and other parts of the Phlegrean Fields.

What to See & Do

The modern town tightly encloses Pozzuoli's monuments of antiquity. The original Greek Acropolis, Rione Terra, Largo Sedile di Porta (tel. 848800288, 06-39967050, or 081-1930578), was the first inhabited area of Pozzuoli. Near the harbor, it has been progressively subsiding under the sea, so much so that it had to be abandoned in the 1970s. A large, ongoing excavation and restoration campaign, begun in 1993, has uncovered a virtually untouched Roman town -- sort of an underground Pompeii. Along the main Decumano (the central avenue running east-west) and some minor streets, are shops, osterie (taverns), a pistrinum (mill), and the ergastula (slaves' cells) with some drawings by prisoners still visible on the walls. The site is open to the public, by guided tour only, during certain periods of the year (admission 4€); call before your visit. Sculptures and other important objects from this site are on display in the Museo Archeologico dei Campi Felgrei in Baia.

Not far from the harbor, at Via Roma 10, is the entrance to the Serapeo, the ruins of the ancient Roman town market. The large structure, built in the 1st century A.D., was lined with porticos where shops and taverns operated. At its center are the remains of a temple, much spoiled during the centuries (its alabaster columns, for instance, were used to decorate the Royal Palace in Caserta). Named after the Egyptian god Serapis because of the statue found here during its excavation, this ruin has been used to study the geological phenomenon of bradyseism (in which large tracts of land slowly subside beneath sea level, while others rise up); you can see little holes in the marble of the columns where they were submerged in water. A bit farther inland, at Via Terracciano 75, is the Anfiteatro Neroniano/Flavio. Started by Roman emperor Nero and finished by Emperor Vespasiano, it is in the upper part of town, where the roads to Cuma, Pozzuoli, and Naples converged in Roman times. This was the third largest amphitheater after the Colosseo and the Anfiteatro Campano in Capua. Admission for both sites is 4€; it includes the Museo Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei, Parco Archeologica di Baia, and Scavi di Cuma, and is valid 2 days. (WedMon 9am-4pm, last admission 3pm; closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25). The theater, which could accommodate more than 20,000 spectators, is used today for special musical events; check with the local tourist office for information.

Solfatara

Lesser known and less romanticized than Vesuvius -- and also way less dangerous -- this largest volcano of the Phlegrean Fields is still an impressive sight. The active volcano was a favorite stop during the Grand Tour (the educational trip through Europe for 19th-century aristocrats), and it is one of the few places in the area that has not been touched by urban sprawl -- and for good reason! Today, as 2 centuries ago, the varied volcanic phenomena include bubbling hot mud, foul-smelling sulfurous hot water, and steam issuing from fissures in the soil. It is a very interesting visit for grown-ups and children alike.

Getting There -- The park is 10km (6 1/4 miles) from Naples. The easiest means of travel is the Metro (line 2) to Pozzuoli-Solfatara station, which is only about 732m (2,400 ft.) from the entrance to the park. You can walk the distance or catch the local P9 bus from outside the Metro station. City bus 152 from Naples to Pozzuoli also stops at Solfatara. You can also walk the 1.6km (1 mile) -- a 20-minute trek uphill from Pozzuoli. A taxi from Naples is a flat rate of 40€ one way to Solfatara.

What to See & Do

The site is a nature preserve covering an expanse of 33 hectares (81 acres), with large wooded areas where a number of rare birds, plants, and small animals have found refuge. At the entrance, Via Solfatara 161 (tel. 081-5262341; www.solfatara.it), pick up the nature trail that leads to the points of interest in the park; the whole thing takes about 45 minutes to 1 hour. The best spots are the Fangaia, with its huge bubbling mud holes, and the Bocca Grande, Solfatara's main crater. Because Solfatara is the epicenter of the Phlegrean Fields' volcanic area, the ancients believed this was the residence of the god Vulcanus. Nearby are the Stufe (Italian for stoves): A number of small caves constantly filled by hot steam. During antiquity, they were used as natural saunas. Entry fees are 6€ for adults, 4.50€ for children 4 to 9, and free for children 3 and under; Artecard holders receive a 20% discount. The preserve is open daily from 8:30am to 1 hour before sunset.

Baia

On the coastal stretch that bounds the Gulf of Pozzuoli to the west, the fishing town of Baia maintains something of its picturesque past, with pastel-colored buildings opening onto a small harbor. Ancient Roman Baia was a flourishing seaside resort adjacent to the large harbor Portus Julius. Due to the geological phenomenon of bradyseism, much of the ancient structures have been preserved underwater, creating a unique submarine archaeological area.

Getting There -- Baia is well connected to Pozzuoli public transportation. Or take a taxi, either from Pozzuoli's Metro station (agree on the price beforehand) or from Naples, where taxis offer a flat rate of 85€ for a round-trip to the archaeological area of Baia and Solfatara with a 3-hour wait.

What to See & Do

The most unique attraction here is obviously the Parco Archeologico Subacqueo, Harbor of Baia (tel. 081-8688923; www.baiasommersa.it), the submerged archaeological site. The ruins are only a few feet below the surface, and the visit is an eerie and magical experience, however you choose to go about viewing it. Many of the structures have been excavated and in places roped off and labeled for visitors coming by guided scuba tour (only summer and fall) or by boat equipped with a submerged video camera or clear bottom. Visits are possible only during good weather (Mid-Mar to mid-Nov Tues-Sun 9:30am-1:30pm and 3:30-7:30pm); boats depart from the dock in Baia's harbor, and the tour costs 35€, inclusive of admission, insurance, and boat transport. For about the same cost, you can enjoy the ruins from underwater, by booking a guided snorkeling or scuba tour either directly with the park or by contacting one of the local authorized diving centers: Blue Point (tel. 081-8704444) or Cardone Sub (tel. 081-8706886).

The unsubmerged part of Baia reserves some quite exceptional ruins. Parco Monumentale, Via Bellavista (tel. 081-5233797; free admission; daily 9am to 1 hr. before sunset; last entrance 1 hr. before closing time; closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25) is a huge archaeological area covering 14 hectares (34 acres) of "historical landscape" on which excavations are ongoing. Walk among the ruins of imperial residences and elegant villas now shaded by pine trees and enjoy the views. Parco Archeologico Terme di Baia, whose main entrance is at Via Sella di Baia 22 (tel. 081-8687592; admission 4€, includes Anfiteatro Flavio and Serapeo in Pozzuoli, Museo Archeologico in Baia, and Scavi di Cuma, and is valid 2 days; Tues-Sun 9am to 1 hr. before sunset; last entrance 1 hr. before closing time; closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25), features the ruins of the Imperial Palace and the thermal baths. These were the most celebrated of ancient Roman baths, beloved by the VIPs of ancient Rome both for the therapeutic properties of their waters and for the matchless scenery. Built by Emperor Ottaviano between 27 B.C. and A.D. 14, the baths took advantage of local, natural hot springs and were hydraulically engineered to be fed by gravity only. The shifting ground, though, altered the original construction, and little water reaches the baths today. We recommend starting with the Parco Monumentale and taking the scenic footpath, which starts from the Esedra (the park's main square) and connects with a secondary entrance to the Parco Archeologico (no ticket sales).

Don't miss the Museo Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei, Via Castello 39 (tel. 081-5233797 or 848-8002884), whose rich endowment is second only to the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. The museum is in the scenic Castello Aragonese, the castle overlooking the harbor from a small promontory. Built in 1442 by Alfonso d'Aragona, it is worth a visit in itself, if nothing else for the view. Inside is a superb collection, including entire rooms that were carefully excavated from local ancient Roman villas and reconstructed here, such as the Sacello degli Augustali and the famous Ninfeo di Punta Epitaffio (a ninfeo is an ancient Roman porch enclosed with columns -- this one was found underwater) from the excavations of Baia and Miseno, and the Ninfeo of Emperor Claudius. Admission is 4€ and includes entrance to Anfiteatro Flavio and Serapeo in Pozzuoli, Zona Archeologica in Baia, and Scavi di Cuma (valid 2 days). Hours are Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 8pm, but the ticket booth closes 1 hour earlier (museum closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25).

Baia is also a good base for exploring the bay; you can rent a boat from the Associazione Barcaioli di Baia (tel. 081-8701222), or join an organized boat excursion with Peppe Navigazione del Golfo (tel. 333-8877883) or with the ferry company Alilauro (tel. 081-7611004 or 081-4972293; www.alilauro.it). All the above companies are located along the dock in the harbor.

Last but not least, you can enjoy a bit of relaxation ancient-roman style in the spa Terme Stufe di Nerone, Via Stufe di Nerone 45, Bacoli (tel. 081-8688006; www.termestufedinerone.it), where there are have two operating natural saunas. Hours vary, so call before your visit.

Cuma

Easily overlooked, this special little place is where the ancient Greeks founded their first stable colony in the western Mediterranean, giving birth to what would become Magna Grecia. The peninsula today is a trifle more built-up, but enough remains for one to imagine Cuma high atop a promontory, dominating the Phlegrean Fields peninsula, and overlooking what at the time was a green expanse of land interspersed with volcanic lakes and surrounded by the sea on both sides. The city of Cuma proved to be the most important Greek colony on this coast, keeping the Etruscans and later the Romans at bay.

Getting There -- Although local SEPSA busesare available from Pozzuoli and the nearby Fusaro stop of the Cumana train line (tel. 800-001616 or 081-7354311; www.sepsa.it), a taxi from Pozzuoli is a more comfortable option.

What to See & Do

The entrance to the archaeological area, Scavi di Cuma (tel. 081-8543060), is at Via Monte di Cuma 3. The site has several ruins. On the Acropolis are two temples -- one to Apollo and the other to Jupiter -- which served as churches from the Middle Ages; beyond the fortified walls is the Necropolis and an amphitheater dating from the late 2nd century B.C. Nearby is Cuma's most intriguing and atmospheric site, the mysterious Antro della Sibilla (Sibylla's cave). According to one interpretation, this is where the famous priestess to the god Apollo received her supplicants. Whatever the truth, the majestic proportions of the tunnel and the engineering feat of its construction are admirable. The terrace outside the cave provides a splendid view over the harbor of Cuma, which is in itself reason enough for a visit. Admission to the scavi is 4€ and includes entry to Anfiteatro Flavio and Serapeo in Pozzuoli, Museo Archeologico and Zona Archeologica in Baia, and is valid 2 days (daily 9am to 1 hr. before sunset; last admission 1 hr. before closing time; closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25).

As you leave the excavations, notice the imposing arch the local road passes under: Named Arco Felice by locals, it dates from the 1st century A.D., when the mountain was cut and a viaduct was built for the passage of the Domitian Road, an immense engineering feat realized under Emperor Domitian. Also nearby is Lake Averno: Described by classic poet Virgil in the Aeneid as the entrance to the underworld, this volcanic lake is strangely dark and quiet. Its name is ancient Greek for "no birds," and it is believed that volcanic vapors might have kept the animals away. Despite its dark fame, in 37 B.C. Marco Agrippa had it connected via channel to the nearby lagoon Lucrino for use as a Roman shipyard. On the eastern shore are the remains of a large thermal bath complex, known as Tempio di Apollo.

The largest of the volcanic lakes is Lake Fusaro, a short distance farther to the south. It was known to the ancients as Acherusia Palus, or the Infernal Swamp. In 1782, quite indifferent to the ancients beliefs, Ferdinando IV Bourbon had architect Carlo Vanvitelli (son of the famous Luigi) build a hunting and fishing lodge, the Casina Reale (Via Fusaro, Bacoli), on a little island in the lake. At presstime, volunteer-run visits were offered only on Sunday from 10am to 1pm. (tel. 081-8687635; admission 1€).