Far from a simple cup of hot water with a Lipton teabag beside it, a proper afternoon tea is both a meal and a ritual.
Any number of places in Victoria serve afternoon tea; some refer to it as high tea. Both come with sandwiches, berries, and tarts, but high tea usually includes some more substantial savory fare such as a meat-and-vegetable-filled turnover. Though the caloric intake can be hefty, it's really more about the ritual than the potential weight gain. For that reason, you don't want to go to any old teahouse. Note that in summer it's a good idea to book at least a week ahead.
If you want, and can afford, the best experience, head to The Fairmont Empress, 721 Government St. (tel. 250/384-8111; bus no. 5 to the Convention Centre), where tea is served in the Tea Lobby, a busy and beautifully ornate room at the front of the hotel. Price depends on the time and season, and runs from C$38 to C$55 (US$32-US$47/£17-£25). For that, you'll be pampered with fresh berries and cream; sandwiches of smoked salmon, cucumber, and carrot and ginger; and scones with strawberry preserves and thick Jersey cream. Even the tea is a special house blend. When you leave, you'll receive a gift of 10 bags to brew at home. Seatings are every 15 minutes four times a day starting at noon, 1:30, 3, and 4:30pm; reservations are essential.
More affordable, less crowded, and just as historic is tea on the lawn of Point Ellice House, 2616 Pleasant St. (tel. 250/380-6506; www.pointellicehouse.ca), where the cream of Victoria society used to gather in the early 1900s. On the Gorge waterway, Point Ellice is just a 5-minute trip by ferry from the Inner Harbour, or take bus no. 14 to Pleasant Street. Afternoon tea costs C$22 (US$18/£10) and includes a half-hour tour of the mansion and gardens, plus the opportunity to play a game of croquet. Open daily 10am to 4pm (tea served 11am-4pm) May through the first Monday of September; phone ahead for Christmas hours.
If you want your tea in a historic garden setting, head over to Abkhazi Garden, 1964 Fairfield Rd. (tel. 250/598-8096; by car or bus no. 1 from downtown), where tea is served daily in the small, modernist house built by Russian Prince and Princess Abkhazi.
Set in impeccably maintained gardens, "Afternoon Tea at the Gardens" at the Butchart Gardens Dining Room Restaurant, 800 Benvenuto Ave. (tel. 250/652-4422; www.butchartgardens.com; bus no. 75), is a memorable experience. Sitting inside the Butchart mansion and looking out over the flowers, you can savor this fine tradition for C$25 (US$21/£11) per person. Tea is served daily noon to 5pm year-round; reservations recommended. Call ahead for winter hours.
What the White Heather Tea Room, 1885 Oak Bay Rd. (tel. 250/595-8020), lacks in old-time atmosphere it makes up for with the sheer quality and value of the tea, and the charm of proprietress and tea mistress Agnes. Of all the numerous options on offer, all of them are less expensive than a similar experience at The Empress. For those feeling not so peckish, try the Wee Tea at C$12 (US$10/£5). For those a little hungrier, the Not So Wee Tea at C$16 (US$14/£7). For the borderline starving is the Big Muckle Great Tea for Two at C$37 (US$31/£17). Open Tuesday through Saturday 10am to 5pm.
