Schnattl

Frommer's Review

Even the justifiably proud owner of this place, Wilhelm (Willy) Schnattl, dismisses its decor as a mere foil for the presentation of his sublime food. Schnattl is near Town Hall, in a location that's convenient for most of the city's journalists and politicians, and features a cozy bar area and a medium-size dining room, an inviting, intimate green-painted and wood-paneled space of enormous comfort and charm. Menu items show intense attention to detail and -- in some cases -- a megalomaniacal fervor from a chef whom the press has called a "mad culinary genius." Roasted sweetbreads are served with a purée of green peas; marinated freshwater fish (a species known locally as Hochen) comes with a parfait of cucumbers. Wild duck and a purée of celery are perfectly cooked, as is a celebrated parfait of pickled tongue (a terrine of foie gras and a mousse of tongue, blended and wrapped in strips of tongue and served with a toasted corn brioche).

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