Frommer's Review
This cozy tavern has been a neighborhood fixture since before World War II, when it got its name from the nickname of its since-departed founder, Victor. In 1994, its reputation took a soaring turn for the better when Bettina and Adi Bittermann took over and began serving food that was a lot more sophisticated than the simple setting. In two intricately paneled dining rooms, you'll find a menu that changes every 2 weeks. During our visit, it featured a starter of slices from a dish you might not relish as a main course, but which locals consider a delicacy: roasted veal's head. (It's a great introduction to a flavorful dish that might not appeal to many Americans in its earthier form.) Other dishes include carpaccio of venison with horseradish and lentil salad; roasted leg of lamb with fried zucchini slices and roasted potatoes; and imaginative variations of tafelspitz. One particularly luscious dish is a thick-sliced calf's liver, served on a bed of crisp-fried tripe prepared with ginger. Chocolate-walnut cake makes a satisfying dessert.
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