What's New

These are clearly exciting times for Vietnam. In January 2007, with strong support from the United States, Vietnam officially joined the World Trade Organization (WTO). It was a huge accomplishment for the country which has been transformed by a 5-year economic boom with annual growth consistently around 7-8%. Six months later, President Nguyen Minh Triet became the first Vietnamese head of state to visit Washington since the war ended 32 years ago.

On top of all this, the Vietnamese are enjoying newfound wealth and personal choices -- from buying new cars and motorbikes to educating their children abroad. But increasing freedom in personal choices has not led to increasing political choices. Indeed, as the country grows stronger, the Communist party seems intent on holding onto its monopoly on power. Because of this, many people are referring to Vietnam as "the next China": a country experiencing rapid economic growth while trying desperately to maintain the Communist status quo.

Vietnam has become a hot destination for travelers from all over the world in search of off-the-beaten-track adventures or the luxuries of old Indochina. By July 2007, 2.4 million international visitors had visited the country, an increase of 16% compared with the same period in 2006.

While safety is on the mind of every traveler these days, a well-informed traveler can enjoy a trouble-free trip in Vietnam. The avian influenza, or "bird flu," is still a concern, but the disease is difficult to contract; since August 2007, there have been just 100 cases in Vietnam, resulting in 46 deaths, hardly a pandemic (but do keep an eye on the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website, www.cdc.gov, for the most up-to-date information). Vietnam's paranoid authoritarian government may seem a burden, but there are virtually no fears about terrorism under the watchful eye of Big Brother.

In travel news, Vietnam Airlines, the country's national carrier, should have a direct flight to the U.S. by press time. Great new options for touring include a couple of new upscale boats on Halong Bay, and lots of cool, new city restaurants and high-end resorts. Also check out the new development taking place on Phu Quoc Island. The Vietnam Tourism Authority is working hard to make the place a new hot spot, so get there before everyone else does.

The number of ATM machines in Vietnam has increased significantly, meaning greater convenience for the international traveler.

North Vietnam

The bustling capital city of Hanoi has managed to retain most, if not all, of its charms: the chaos of the busy Old Quarter, the meandering alleys of the French Quarter, and tranquil Hoan Kiem Lake at the very heart of the city. Sadly, despite the motorbike pollution plaguing Hanoi, there has been no talk of turning the Old District into a pedestrian-only area.

Accommodations in the capital are many, and after years of delays, a new 359-room InterContinental Hotel (tel. 04/829-3939; www.ichotelsgroup.com) promises to be up and running in 2008. In the budget option, the folks who brought you the ever popular Church Hotel have opened Thien Tan Hotel (tel. 04/824-4005) which has all the charm of its purveyor, and a staff that is still excited and eager to serve.

The most notable newcomer on the culinary scene is Verticale (tel. 04/944-6317), a solo venture from Didier Corlou (formerly of the Metropole's Le Beaulieu). It is the place to indulge in innovative French fare. Bleu de Thuy (tel. 04/928-5900) has relocated to up-and-coming Tong Duy Tan St. and continues to serve fantastic fusion food in a quirky environment.

The Hanoi art scene continues to conjure up new and exciting artists, quickly followed by imitators and fake reproductions. But if the modern art scene is not for you, head to 54 Traditions (tel. 04/715-0194; www.54traditions.com), an unassuming gallery packed with Vietnamese minority artifacts. For fashion shoppers, keep your eye on the area around the Metropole and the Hilton Opera House -- looks like it's been tapped to become flagship central for incoming luxury brand names.

The peace and seclusion of northern Sapa is quickly becoming a thing of the past. As such, hotels are going further into the hills, seeking unrivaled seclusion for their guests and visitors. Newcomer Topas Ecolodge (tel. 020/871-331; www.topas-eco-lodge.com) set its beautiful, environmentally-friendly lodge on a hilltop 18km outside of Sapa. Similarly, a new Life Heritage Resort Spa (www.life-resorts.com) will be a multi-villa getaway far away from the crowds. Its opening has been pushed back from 2008 to early 2009.

The new luxury junk ship Halong Ginger (tel. 04/984-2807; www.cruisehalong.com), which offers a smaller, more intimate experience, is giving the larger French steamer Emeraude a run for its money. Owners are adding two sister junks -- the Halong Jasmine and the Halong Violet -- which will be even more exclusive and (incredibly enough) more expensive. The Life Wellness Resort group (www.life-resorts.com), managers of the popular Hoi An destination of the same name, is also launching five luxury boats in early 2009.

Keep your eyes peeled for two new properties from the Sheraton group. Four Points by Sheraton should be open by press time, and Sheraton Halong Bay Resort will open its doors in 2010. For inquiries to either location, contact Sheraton's pre-opening office in Bangkok (tel. 662/237-2153).

Central Vietnam

Visitors to Ninh Binh can finally have a little luxury with their nature- and primate-watching. A Life Wellness Resort (www.life-resort.com) is set to open on 5 hectares of prime land in late 2008.

The hotel scene in the colonial capital of Hue has experienced a fantastic boost with the arrival of the new, boutique destination La Résidence Hotel and Spa (tel. 054/837-475; www.la-residence-hue.com). Also, a brand new leisure and gastronomic project Ancient Hue was just opening at press time (tel. 054/590-536).

Where there are UNESCO World Heritage sites, the five-stars will come a knockin'. The arrival of the Nam Hai (tel. 0510/940-000; www.ghmhotels.com) marked the transformation of Danang/Hoi An from sleepy resort towns to luxury destinations du jour.

In the central highlands, Dalat remains a popular retreat for those looking for a cool getaway from the hot temperatures. For now, newly opened Evason Ana Mandara Villas (tel. 063/555-888) has the city's only outdoor heated pool. Not to be outdone, Sofitel Dalat plans to cut into their generous lawn and build one, too. Sister hotel Novotel Dalat will also be undergoing a major, much needed renovation, cutting the number of rooms to almost half and offering larger, more luxurious accommodations.

Phan Thiet and Mui Ne continue to attract visitors looking for a weekend getaway from nearby Saigon. The highly anticipated Princess D'Annam Resort & Spa (tel. 08/840-9646; www.princessannam.com) has experienced several delays in their opening, but should be up and running in 2008. Life Wellness Resort (www.life-resorts.com) continues to expand its empire and will be opening a resort in Tien Thanh, 20km south of Phan Thiet, in early 2009.

South Vietnam

In busy Ho Chi Minh City, the hotel scene has been surprisingly quiet. Nothing noteworthy has opened since our last edition. However, the InterContinental has confirmed they will be opening a hotel in 2009.

For an affordable stay, check out Palace Hotel (tel. 08/824-4231; www.bongsencorporation.com). It has just completed a major facelift and is now funky, modern, and only a couple blocks away from the old Opera House.

In our last edition, we moaned about the inevitable arrival of Kentucky Fried Chicken. Well Vietnam now has its own answer to fast food chains -- Wrap and Roll (tel. 08/822-2166). The Vietnamese fast food restaurant is a stone's throw away from the city's most obvious KFC, and serves cheap, fresh DIY/roll-it-yourself spring rolls.

For a more upscale dining experience try Xu (tel. 08/824-8468), which serves tasty, contemporary Vietnamese fare. If you happen to crave some Lebanese food, skip over to the beaded curtains and silk drapes of Warda (tel. 08/824-1374).

In the Mekong Delta, check out new overnight river tours aboard two-deck traditional wooden sampans offered by Transmekong (tel. 071/829-540; www.transmekong.com).

Phu Quoc Island is gearing up to become a hot tourist destination. Rumor has it they are building an international airport and the tiny island has been tapped for promotion by the Vietnam Tourist Authority. For now, they are the only destination with daily flights to and from Ho Chi Minh City. The Grand Mercure La Veranda (tel. 077/982-988) is a new high-end, boutique resort that is ready to take on all those happy holiday makers.

Cambodia

For those traveling on to Cambodia, Siem Reap has a gorgeous, brand-new international airport that is also, thankfully, very efficient. Cambodia recently introduced new 1-month e-visas (http://evisa.mtaic.gov.kh). Applying online costs roughly the same amount of money ($25 versus $20) and will save you time and hassle at the airport.

In town, two new restaurants The Sugar Palm (tel. 063/964-838) and Viroth's Restaurant (tel. 063/760-774) are giving all those Indochina-nostalgic French restaurants a run for their money. Both restaurants offer fantastic Khmer food, stylish decor, and affordable menus.

In Phnom Penh a slew of affordable accommodations has arrived, the most notable one being Le Pavilion (tel. 023/222-280; www.pavilion-cambodia.com), which is a secluded, ultra stylish destination and a virtual steal at $50-$55 (£27-£30) per room. Scandinavia Hotel (023/214-498; www.scandinavia-hotel-cambodia.com) is another great destination. They were in the middle of a massive renovation at the time of this writing, and once all the rooms are done, they should be your top choice in the budget category.