142km (88 miles) NW of Palenque; 160km (100 miles) N of San Cristóbal de las Casas
Villahermosa (pop. 550,000) is the capital and the largest city of the state of Tabasco. It lies in a shallow depression about an hour's drive from the Gulf coast, at the confluence of two rivers: the Grijalva and the Carrizal. The land is marshy, with shallow lakes scattered here and there. For most of the year it's hot and humid. Why bother coming here? Because it has the giant Olmec heads set outside in something that's half museum and half park. Also, because it has the closest international airport to the ruins of Palenque and the highlands of Chiapas.
Oil has brought money to this town and raised prices. Villahermosa is one of the most expensive cities in the country and contrasts sharply with inexpensive Chiapas. The money is being sucked into the modern western sections surrounding a development called Tabasco 2000. This area, especially the neighborhoods around the Parque-Museo La Venta, is the most attractive part of town, surrounded, as it is, by small lakes. The historic center has been left to decay. It's gritty, crowded, and unpleasant. The main reason to be downtown is for the cheap hotels.
