El Palenque de los Cimarrones

Frommer's Review

I was prepared to hate this place. It's definitely a tourist trap catering to tour groups. Yet, the food was surprisingly good, and the show and setting were interesting and informative, without being too kitschy or corny. You reach the restaurant after paying a CUC$1 entrance fee and walking about 270m (600 ft.) through a narrow cave that bisects one of the area's signature mogotes. At the end of the path you come to a re-creation of one of the nomadic homes set up by runaway slaves who lived and hid in these caves. After a brief bit of Afro-Cuban music and dance, you reach the restaurant, which is a series of interconnected ranchos, each decorated and representing a different orishá, or Afro-Cuban deity. The main dish here is a slow-roasted chicken seasoned with oregano, cumin, garlic, and lime juice -- it's excellent. And, the yellow rice with bits of ham, bacon, sausage, and peas puts Casa de Don Tomás's version to shame. The restaurant is only open for lunch, but the bar and snack bar located in the cave at the joint's entrance are open 24 hours. This spot also serves as a popular dance club on most nights.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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