Planning a trip to Virgin Islands

Money

The U.S. Virgin Islands and the British Virgin Islands both use the U.S. dollar as the form of currency. Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency.  However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Banks on the islands are your only option if you need to exchange currency. These rates can be expensive, and additional charges are often tacked on; it is best to change money before you arrive.

There seems to be no shortage of ATMs in the Virgin Islands, all of which dispense U.S. dollars. They are everywhere -- on the downtown streets of Charlotte Amalie, within the large resorts, and in shopping arcades -- making it easy to get quick cash. ATMs are most prevalent in Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas, and in Christiansted on St. Croix. They are also available in Cruz Bay on St. John, and in the British Virgin Islands on Tortola and Virgin Gorda. The other islands do not have ATMs, so if you're planning a visit, be sure to visit an ATM to get some cash first. Each machine charges around $2 to $3 for a transaction fee. Nearly all of the machines are operated by three banks: Scotiabank (www.scotiabank.com), FirstBank (www.firstbankvi.com), and Banco Popular (www.bancopopular.com/vi).

Many establishments in the Virgin Islands, including most of those recommended in this guide, accept credit cards. MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted on all the islands that cater to visitors, especially Virgin Gorda, Tortola, St. John, St. Croix, and, of course, St. Thomas. In the past few years, there has been a tendency to drop American Express because of the high percentage it takes from transactions with shopkeepers.

However, visitors should not rely solely on credit cards, as many establishments in the Virgin Islands accept only cash. Often, villas and condos or small inns will only accept cash or personal checks in advance. You will also want to arm yourself with cash while browsing the small boutiques and curio shops throughout the islands, as most do not take credit cards.

Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the "Travel Tools To Go" icon.

What Things Cost in St. Thomas (US$)

Taxi from airport to Charlotte Amalie $15.00

Double room, moderate $140.00

Double room, inexpensive $100.00

Three course dinner for one, no wine, moderate $24.00

Cup of coffee in a cafe $2.75

Bottle of beer $3.50

Tips on Dining

Dining in the Virgin Islands is generally more expensive than it is in North America because, except for locally caught seafood, many of the ingredients have to be imported. This also means that sometimes they aren't as fresh as they could be. Whenever possible, stick to regional food, which is fresher.

Overall, the food on the islands is better than ever. Many fine talents, including some top-notch chefs, now cook here. These chefs often combine mainland recipes with local ingredients to come up with a Caribbean/American cuisine. Try to eat at some of the local places as well. The prices there are more reasonable, and the fare is more adventurous.

Tipping -- A 10% to 15% service charge is automatically added to most restaurant tabs. If the service has been good, you should tip a bit extra.

What to Wear -- In some of the posh resorts, such as Caneel Bay on St. John, it is customary for men to wear a jacket, but in summer, virtually no establishment requires it. If in doubt, ask the restaurant beforehand. At the better places, women's evening attire is casual-chic. During the day it is proper to wear something over your bathing suit if you're in a restaurant.

Reservations -- Check to see if reservations are required before heading out to eat. In summer, you can almost always get in, but in winter, all the tables may be taken at some of the famous but small places.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Eco-tourism is a relatively new concept to the Virgin Islands. Many of the islands were clear-cut in the 1700s to make way for sugar plantations, destroying much of the natural landscape. All through the 1900s, while real estate developments on St. Thomas continued to grow, little concern was given to preserving and sustaining the natural resources of the U.S.V.I. Today, there is a very different attitude toward the ecosystem of the Virgin Islands among permanent residents and visitors alike.

While the eco-tourism infrastructure is still underdeveloped, and the terms "eco-friendly" and "sustainable" can be misused, it is still possible to find truly eco-friendly lodgings on the islands. Camping is always an option. St. John, which is almost entirely a national park, has numerous campsites. Aside from those run by the National Park Service, there is the Maho Bay Camp, which is an umbrella name for two different campsites with several types of eco-friendly lodgings ranging from bare cottages to comfortable studios. On St. Croix, there is Mount Victory Camp, which relies on renewable energy to power its cottages. The British Virgin Islands are less developed than their American cousins, so lodgings tend to be more eco-friendly by nature. You don't have to camp out to stay in eco-sensitive lodging. The Cooper Island Beach Club meets the middle ground between luxury and roughing it. Guana Island is a private island with only one hotel. The entire island is a wildlife sanctuary watched over by the attentive owners.

Low-impact activities like hiking, snorkeling, and kayaking abound in the Virgin Islands. While on St. Croix, contact the St. Croix Environmental Association, which hosts hikes, tours of research facilities, and events based around the hatching of baby sea turtles. Aside from the many companies that offer tours, the St. Thomas-based Virgin Islands Ecotours/Mangrove Adventures offers tours with professional naturalists of the mangrove lagoon and nature reserve at Cas Cay.

St. Thomas, with all its development and modern conveniences, faces the biggest challenges in regard to sustainable development.

Sustainable Eating

Because of the decline of local species, such as Caribbean lobster and conch, you may want to eschew ordering reef fish, such as grouper, snapper, and grunt, and opt for equally tasty and more sustainable alternatives that live out in open water such as dorado, wahoo, and barracuda.

Health & Safety

For information about traveling to the U.S. Virgin Islands during the Covid-19 pandemic, visit USVIUpdate.com or our frequently updated roundup of Caribbean travel requirements and restrictions. 

The major hospital on St. Thomas is Schneider Regional Medical Center. St. Croix has Governor Juan F. Luis Hospital & Medical Center. There are only clinic facilities—no full hospital—on St. John; serious cases are transferred to the hospital on St. Thomas.

In the British Virgin Islands, there is one small general hospital, Peebles Hospital on Tortola, and a few medical clinics scattered throughout the territory. In serious cases, patients might be transferred to Puerto Rico.

It is not difficult to get a prescription filled or find a doctor on St. Thomas, St. Croix, and Tortola. But you should get your prescriptions filled before heading to the other islands, where medical services are more limited. To avoid delays, it's best to arrive with enough medication for your entire vacation.

Bugs & Bites: Mosquitoes do exist in the Virgin Islands, but they aren't the malaria-carrying mosquitoes that you might find elsewhere in the Caribbean. They're still a nuisance, though. Sand flies, which appear mainly in the evening, are a bigger annoyance. Screens can't keep these critters out, so carry your bug repellent.

Dietary Red Flags: If you experience diarrhea, moderate your eating habits, and drink only bottled water until you recover. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor.

Seasickness: Beyond prescription treatments, Bonine and Dramamine are good over-the-counter medications, although each may cause drowsiness. You might also opt for an acupressure wristband available at drugstores. A ginger pill might help as well.

Sun Exposure: In the Virgin Islands, the sun can be brutal. To protect yourself, wear sunglasses and a hat, and apply sunscreen (SPF 30 and higher) liberally. Limit your time on the beach for the first few days. If you overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover. If your sunburn is followed by fever, chills, headache, nausea, or dizziness, see a doctor.

Healthy Travels to You

The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice:

• U.S.: cdc.gov/travel

• Australia: smartraveller.gov.au

• Canada: travel.gc.ca/travelling/health-safety

• U.K.: gov.uk/travel-abroad

Safety

The Virgin Islands are a relatively safe destination. The small permanent populations are generally friendly and welcoming. As in any destination, wandering alone at night is not recommended. Guard your valuables or store them in hotel safes if possible.

The most common type of crime is petty theft aimed at unguarded possessions on the beach and unlocked parked cars. Exercise the same amount of caution you would use when traveling to any unfamiliar location.

Motorists in the BVI as well as the USVI drive on the left side of the road. Travelers unaccustomed to that should leave night driving, at least, to a taxi driver.

You might find that steep, curvy roads are poorly lit at night. Do not attempt the most rural roads at that time of day, as cell phone service may be spotty.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

February

Annual St. Croix International Regatta, St. Croix. Held at the St. Croix Yacht Club on Teague Bay, this 3-day regatta celebrates its 19th year in 2012. Although a rather minor regatta, it draws serious yachties from the B.V.I., the U.S.V.I., and Florida. Call St. Croix Yacht Club at tel. 340/773-9531, or visit www.stcroixyc.com for details. Mid-February.

March

Mardi Gras Annual Parade, St. Croix. The scenic north shore of St. Croix becomes one big colorful party at Mardi Gras, with a parade to Cane Bay. For information, check www.stcroixtourism.com. First Saturday before Fat Tuesday, usually early March.

International Rolex Cup Regatta, St. Thomas. This is one of three regattas in the Caribbean Ocean Racing Triangle (CORT) series. Top-ranked international racers come to St. Thomas to compete in front of the world's yachting press. The St. Thomas Yacht Club hosts the 3-day event. Call tel. 340/775-4701, or visit www.rolexcupregatta.com. Late March.

Transfer Day, U.S. Virgin Islands. This holiday commemorates the day the U.S. Virgins were transferred from Denmark to the United States. On this day, vendors sell Danish products, and visits to the remains of Danish ruins and forts are arranged. Call tel. 340/772-0598, or visit www.stcroixlandmarks.com. March 31.

April

B.V.I. Spring Regatta, Tortola. This is the third of the CORT events. A range of talents, from the most dedicated racers to bareboat crews out for "rum and reggae," participate in the 4-day race. Contact the B.V.I. Spring Regatta Committee in Tortola at tel. 284/541-6732, or sail over to www.bvispringregatta.org for information. Early April.

Virgin Gorda Easter Festival, Virgin Gorda. Easter weekend is a big event on Virgin Gorda, featuring street parades, a beauty pageant, and nonstop partying. Arrive on Good Friday, Holy Saturday, or Easter Sunday, and you should have no trouble finding the party. Easter weekend.

Virgin Islands Carnival, St. Thomas. This annual celebration on St. Thomas, with origins in Africa, is the most spectacular and fun carnival in the Virgin Islands. "Mocko Jumbies," people dressed as spirits, parade through the streets on stilts nearly 20 feet high. Steel and fungi bands, "jump-ups," and parades are part of the festivities. Over the years, interestingly, the festivities have become more and more Christianized. Events take place islandwide, but most of the action is on the streets of Charlotte Amalie. For information, call tel. 340/776-3112, or visit www.vicarnival.com for a schedule of events. After Easter.

May

B.V.I. Music Festival, Tortola. Music -- mostly reggae -- drowns out the sea at this music festival on Cane Garden Bay in Tortola, the island's best beach. Musicians come from all over the West Indies to perform. For more information, visit www.bvimusicfestival.com. Late May.

June

Mango Melee and Tropical Fruit Festival, St. Croix. Mango aficionados and devotees of other tropical fruit converge here for tastings, cooking demonstrations, and contests. For more information, call tel. 340/692-2874, or visit www.sgvbg.org. Late June.

Virgin Islands Bartender Olympics, St. Croix. Inspired by the Tom Cruise movie Cocktail, bartenders and servers throughout the Virgin Islands come together to show off their skills in mixing fruit punches and other drinks. The best bartender and best server are named, and there's plenty to drink. For more information, call 340/514-8226. Usually late June.

St John Festival, St. John. Known also as "Carnival," this month-long cultural event takes place on St. John, with steel-pan concerts, calypso shows, parades, beauty pageants, and fireworks displays. For more information, call 800/372-USVI [8784]. The carnival begins the first week of June and lasts until July 4.

July

Independence Day, St. John. The elements of Carnival are combined with emancipation and independence celebrations in this festive event, which culminates on July 4 with a big parade. Thousands of St. Thomas residents flock to St. John for the parades, calypso bands, colorful costumes, and events leading up to the selection of Ms. St. John and the King of the Carnival. Call the St. John tourist office at tel. 340/776-6201 for more details. July 4.

August

B.V.I. Emancipation Celebrations, Tortola. Many visitors from other Caribbean islands hop over to Road Town, in Tortola, for this 2-week party. Join locals as they dance to fungi and reggae bands, and take part in the Emancipation Day Parade and other carnival activities and festivities. For information, call the B.V.I. Tourist Board Office at tel. 284/494-3701. Early August.

U.S. Virgin Islands Open/Atlantic Blue Marlin Tournament, St. Thomas. This prestigious St. Thomas-centered charity event (proceeds go to the Boy Scouts) is also eco-friendly -- trophies are based on the number of blue marlin caught, tagged, and released. The tournament is open to anyone who's interested, and sportsfishers come from around the world to participate. For more information, call the VI Council of the Boy Scouts of America at tel. 888/234-7484 or 340/775-9500; www.abmt.vi. Late August (weekend closest to the full moon).

October

Virgin Islands Fashion Week, St. Thomas. Aspiring designers from across the Caribbean, the United States, and even West Africa fly into St. Thomas to showcase their latest fashion designs. At the Caribbean Catwalk Runway show, beach and casual fashions are the draw. Nearly all events, including rap party, are open to the public. For more information, call tel. 340/344-6078. Five days in October, dates vary.

November

Annual Holiday Arts, Crafts & Music Festival, St. Thomas. This annual festival, which takes place in Tillett Gardens in St. Thomas, includes displays from over 30 local artists, along with live music and entertainment. There are even free activities for kids. For information, visit www.tillettfoundation.org.

December

Christmas in St. Croix. This major event launches the beginning of a 12-day celebration that includes Christmas Day, Christmas Second Day (Dec 26), New Year's Eve (called "Old Year's Day"), and New Year's Day. It ends on January 6, the Feast of the Three Kings, with a parade of flamboyantly attired merrymakers. For information, call the U.S. Virgin Islands Department of Tourism office in Christiansted at tel. 340/773-0495.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The area code for the U.S.V.I. is 340; in the B.V.I., it’s 284. You can dial direct from North America; from outside North America, dial 001, plus the number for the U.S.V.I., and 011-44 plus the number for the B.V.I.

Customs -- Every visitor to the U.S.V.I. 21 years of age or older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is altogether forbidden to bring into the country foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (tel 800/232-5378; www.cbp.gov).

Visitors to the B.V.I. can bring in food, with the exception of meat products that are not USDA-approved. Visitors can bring up to $10,000 in currency and 1 liter of alcohol per person.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is “Know Before You Go.” For more information, contact the Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel 1300/363-263, or 61 2 9313 3010 from outside Australia; www.customs.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet “I Declare,” issued by the Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: “New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4.” For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, the Customhouse, 1 Hinemoa St., Harbour Quays, Wellington 6140 (tel 04/901-4500; www.customs.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens: From the B.V.I., U.K. citizens can bring back (duty-free) 200 cigarettes (250g of tobacco), 2 liters wine, 1 liter strong liquor, 60cc perfume, and £145 of goods and souvenirs. Larger amounts are subject to tax. For further information, contact HM Revenue & Customs, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel 0300 200 3700; www.hmrc.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens & Residents: From the U.S.V.I., U.S. citizens can bring back 5 liters of liquor duty-free, plus an extra liter of rum (including Cruzan rum) if one of the bottles is produced in the Virgin Islands. Goods made on the island are also duty-free, including perfume, jewelry, clothing, and original paintings; however, if the price of an item exceeds $25, you must be able to show a certificate of origin.

Be sure to collect receipts for all purchases in the Virgin Islands, and beware of merchants offering to give you a false receipt—he or she might be an informer to U.S. Customs. Also, keep in mind that any gifts received during your stay must be declared. For the most up-to-date specifics on what you can bring back from the B.V.I. and the corresponding fees, contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel 877/227-5511;www.ct.gov/dcp.gov).

Disabled Travelers -- For the most part, the accessibility of hotels and restaurants in the U.S.V.I. remains far behind the progress made on the mainland. Of the U.S. Virgins, St. Thomas and St. John remain the most difficult islands for wheelchair-bound visitors to maneuver because of their hilly terrain. St. Croix is flatter and is an easier place to get around.

Although most hotels in the Virgin Islands have a long way to go before they become a friend of a person with disabilities, some have made inroads. As of this writing, about a third of the major resorts in St. Thomas or St. Croix have the facilities to accommodate vacationers who have disabilities. Many inns, guesthouses, and villas terraced in the hills of Charlotte Amalie can present challenges to those with mobility issues—a number have steep steps and no elevators. Of the resorts in the U.S.V.I., the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas, is the most hospitable to persons with disabilities. It maintains “accessible rooms”—rooms that can be reached without navigating stairs—in every price category. The Ritz also offers beach wheelchairs (resting on balloon tires).

Accessible Island Tours (tel 340/344-8302; http://accessvi.com) is a tour operator in St. Thomas that offers a land-based tour of St. Thomas in a custom wheelchair-accessible vehicle. Originating from Wico Dock at Havensight or Crown Bay at the Sub Base, tours stop at Magens Bay, Drakes Seat, and the Skyline Drive, and cost $37 per person (minimum of six passengers).

Doctors -- You should have no trouble finding a good doctor in the Virgin Islands. See "Fast Facts” in individual island chapters for information on doctors.

Drinking Laws -- In the U.S. Virgins, the legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 18. Proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don’t even think about driving while intoxicated. Although 18-year-olds can purchase, drink, and order alcohol, they cannot transport bottles back to the United States with them. If an attempt is made, the alcohol will be confiscated at the Customs check point. The same holds true for the B.V.I.

In the B.V.I., the legal minimum age for purchasing liquor or drinking alcohol in bars or restaurants is 18. Alcoholic beverages can be sold any day of the week, including Sunday. You can have an open container on the beach, but be you can be fined if you litter.

Driving Rules -- In both the U.S.V.I. and the B.V.I., you must drive on the left. See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Electricity -- The electrical current in the Virgin Islands is the same as on the U.S. mainland and Canada: 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220 to 240 volts to 110 to 120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- There are no embassies or consulates in the Virgin Islands. If you have a passport issue, go to the local police station, which in all islands is located at the center of government agencies. Relay your problem to whomever is at reception, and you’ll be given advice about which agencies can help you.

Emergencies -- Call tel 911 in the U.S.V.I. or 999 in the B.V.I.

Family Travel -- The Virgin Islands, both U.S. and British, are very family-friendly. St. Thomas and St. Croix have the most facilities and attractions for families. The British Virgin Islands have fewer attractions that cater specifically to children, although families who love watersports, boating, and nature activities will have a great time. When compared with some of the other major destinations in the Caribbean (such as Jamaica, where crime is high), the U.S. Virgins are generally safe, and the British Virgin Islands are even safer.

Gasoline -- Please see “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter, for information.

Health -- Other than the typical tropical environment health concerns, like sun exposure and seasickness, there are no major health concerns in the Virgin Islands.

St. Thomas has the best hospital in the U.S. Virgin Islands (Schneider Regional Medical Center; St. Croix also has good hospital facilities (St. Croix Regional Medical Center. There is only a health clinic on St. John; more serious cases are transferred to the hospital on St. Thomas.

The B.V.I. has one small general hospital, Peebles on Tortola. Day clinics are available on Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Anegada, and Jost Van Dyke. Both Tortola and Virgin Gorda are served by ambulances with paramedics. The Eureka Medical Centre (www.eurekamedicalclinic.com), Geneva Place, Road Town, Tortola, is a private-run urgent-care facility. There is also no hyperbaric chamber in the B.V.I. Patients requiring treatment for decompression illness are transferred to St. Thomas.

In very serious cases, patients in the U.S. Virgins and the B.V.I. are transported to Puerto Rico.

It is not difficult to get a prescription filled or find a doctor on St. Thomas, St. Croix, and Tortola. Pharmacies are few and far between on the smaller islands, so you should get any prescriptions refilled before you venture into more remote territory. Often it requires a phone call from the U.S.V.I. to a stateside pharmacy or to the doctor who prescribed the medicine in the first place. CVS and Wal-Mart are the best for contacting a stateside branch of those chains, if your prescription is on a computer file. To avoid possible hassles and delays, it is best to arrive with enough medication for your entire vacation.

• Bugs & Bites -- Mosquitoes do exist in the Virgin Islands, but they aren’t the malaria-carrying mosquitoes that you might find elsewhere in the Caribbean. They’re still a nuisance, though. Sand flies, which appear mainly in the evening, are a bigger annoyance. Screens can’t keep these critters out, so use bug repellent.

• Dietary Red Flags -- If you experience diarrhea, moderate your eating habits and drink only bottled water until you recover. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor. Much of the fresh water on the Virgin Islands is stored in cisterns and filtered before it’s served. Delicate stomachs might opt for bottled water. Some say a nightly drink of ginger ale and bitters helps soothe tummies.

• Seasickness -- The best way to prevent seasickness is with the scopolamine patch by Transderm Scop, a prescription medication. Bonine and Dramamine are good over-the-counter medications, although each causes drowsiness. Smooth Sailing is a ginger drink that works quite well to settle your stomach. You might also opt for an acupressure wristband available at drugstores (www.sea-band.com). Some say a ginger pill taken with a meal and followed by Dramamine an hour before boating also does the job.

• Sun Exposure -- The Virgin Islands’ sun can be brutal. To protect yourself, consider wearing sunglasses and a hat, and use sunscreen (SPF 15 and higher) liberally. Limit your time on the beach for the first few days. If you overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover. If your sunburn is followed by fever, chills, a headache, nausea, or dizziness, see a doctor.

Hospitals -- The largest hospital in St. Thomas is the Schneider Regional Medical Center with 24-hour emergency-room service. Islanders from St. John also use this hospital, which is about a 5-minute drive from Charlotte Amalie. The other major hospital is the St. Croix Regional Medical Center on St. Croix; it has a Level IV trauma center offering 24-hour emergency-room service. Both offer air and ground-level support to hospitals with more extensive facilities. The payment of Medicare and Medicaid operates as it does in the United States. If you walk into a hospital without any coverage or insurance, you are expected to pay.

On Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands, the main hospital in the little country is Peebles Hospital, with surgical, X-ray, and laboratory facilities. If you are on one of the out islands, you are generally taken to Tortola for treatment. In addition to these hospitals, there are a number of private doctors’ offices throughout the islands, charging higher rates than the hospitals.

Internet & Wi-Fi -- Internet access is becoming increasingly available all around the Virgin Islands, but it can still be spotty on some of the more remote islands. Most hotels and resorts are ratcheting up their Internet capabilities. Many bars and cafes throughout the Virgin Islands have free Wi-Fi access.

If you’re in transit and looking for a spot with Internet access, see the “Fast Facts” section of each island chapter for recommendations on where to go.

Language -- English is the official language of both the U.S. and British Virgin Islands.

Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S.V.I., the burden is on the state to prove a person’s guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice.

LGBT Travelers -- The Virgin Islands are some of the most gay-friendly destinations in the Caribbean. However, discretion is still advised. Islanders tend to be religious and conservative, and displays of same-sex affection, such as hand holding, are frowned upon.

St. Thomas is the most cosmopolitan of the Virgin Islands, but it is no longer the “gay paradise” it was in the 1960s and 1970s. Most gay vacationers now head for Frederiksted, in St. Croix, which has more hotels and other establishments welcoming to the gay market. In Charlotte Amalie, on St. Thomas, the most boisterous gay nightlife takes place in the Frenchtown section of the city.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates in the U.S.V.I. were 33[ce] for a postcard and 46[ce] for a letter up to 1 ounce. For international mail, a first-class postcard or letter stamp costs $1.10. For more information, go to www.usps.com. Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don’t know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

If you aren’t sure what your address will be in the U.S. Virgin Islands, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver’s license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, and Saturday 9am to 3pm.

Postal rates in the British Virgin Islands to the United States or Canada are 35[ce] for a postcard (airmail), and 50[ce] for a first-class airmail letter ( 1/2 oz.). Mailing a postcard to the U.K. costs 50[ce] and a first-class letter via airmail costs 75[ce] ( 1/2 oz.). B.V.I. postage stamps are beautiful and highly coveted; contact the BVI Philatelic Bureau (tel 284/494-7789) for information about exhibitions.

Medical Requirements -- Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the U.S. Virgin Islands or the British Virgin Islands.

If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you—smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.

For HIV-positive visitors, requirements for entering both the U.S.V.I. and B.V.I. are somewhat vague and change frequently. Anyone who does not appear to be in good health may be required to undergo a medical exam, including HIV testing, prior to being granted or denied entry. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (tel 800/448-0440 or 301/519-0459 outside the U.S.; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men’s Health Crisis (tel 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org). Also see “Health.”

Mobile Phones -- In the U.S. Virgin Islands: The two largest cellphone operators in the U.S.V.I. include Sprint PCS (www.sprint.com) and AT&T Wireless (www.att.com/wireless). Phones operating in the mainland U.S. under those plans will usually operate seamlessly, and without any excess roaming charges, in the U.S.V.I. If your phone presently operates through some other carrier, it’s wise to call them before your departure about signing up (at least temporarily) for one of their international plans, which will save you money on roaming charges during the duration of your trip. If your cellphone is not equipped for reception and transmission in the U.S.V.I., consider renting (or buying) a cheap cellphone for temporary use, or, less conveniently, head for a Sprint PCS or AT&T sales outlet (each maintains offices on all three of the U.S.V.I.’s major islands) for a substitute SIM card, a key operating component that can be inserted into your existing phone, making it operational. Throughout the U.S.V.I., the electrical system is the same as within the U.S. mainland (115 volts and female sockets which accept the U.S.-style “flat” plugs), so most U.S. residents won’t need any special transformers or adaptors.

In the British Virgin Islands: The three largest cellphone operators in the B.V.I. are CCT Global Communications (www.cctwireless.com), LIME (www.lime.com), and Digicell BVI (www.digicelbvi.com), all with offices in Road Town and on Virgin Gorda. Other than that, the cellphone situation is roughly equivalent to what’s described immediately above in the U.S.V.I. The electrical system in the B.V.I. is the same as that within the U.S.V.I. and the mainland U.S. (115 volts), so British and European visitors may want to bring adaptors and transformers. Hotels in the B.V.I. often have the appropriate adaptors, and in some cases, those adaptors are physically built directly into the wall sockets.

Money & Costs[en]The U.S. Virgin Islands and the British Virgin Islands both use the U.S. dollar as the form of currency. Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Banks on the islands are your only option if you need to exchange currency. These rates can be expensive, and additional charges are often tacked on; it is best to change money before you arrive.

ATMs throughout the Virgin Islands dispense U.S. dollars. ATMs are most prevalent on St. Thomas in Charlotte Amalie (on the downtown streets, near the cruise-ship terminals, within the large resorts, and in shopping malls) and in Christiansted on St. Croix. You will also find several ATMs in Cruz Bay on St. John. ATMs are less prevalent in the British Virgin Islands; you will find a cluster of banks in Wickham Cay I, Road Town, Tortola, and a couple in the harbor in Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda. The other islands do not have ATMs, so if you’re planning a visit, be sure to visit an ATM to get some cash first (or have your resort front you some petty cash). Each machine charges around $2 to $3 for a transaction fee. Nearly all of the machines are operated by three banks: Scotiabank (www.scotiabank.com), FirstBank (www.firstbankvi.com), and Banco Popular (www.bancopopular.com/vi).

Most establishments in the Virgin Islands accept credit cards; we note in our reviews those places that accept cash only. MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted on all the islands that cater to visitors, especially Virgin Gorda, Tortola, St. John, St. Croix, and, of course, St. Thomas. In the past few years, there has been a tendency to drop American Express because of the high percentage it takes from transactions.

However, visitors should not rely solely on credit cards, as a number of establishments in the Virgin Islands accept only cash. You will want to arm yourself with cash while browsing the small boutiques and curio shops throughout the islands—many do not take credit cards. Most taxi drivers only deal in cash.

Beware of credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3 percent or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

Passports -- If you’re a U.S. citizen and you travel directly to the U.S.V.I. and do not visit the British Virgin Islands, you do not need a passport—but you are highly encouraged to carry one. If you return to the mainland U.S. from the U.S.V.I. through another country (Mexico or Bermuda, for example), you will need a passport to get back home. For non–U.S. citizens, visiting the U.S. Virgin Islands is just like visiting the mainland United States: You need a passport and visa.

A passport is necessary for all visitors to the British Virgin Islands (including citizens of the U.K.).

For information on how to get a passport, contact your passport office (see below). Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods. And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you’ll pay a higher processing fee. When traveling, safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt, and keep a copy of the critical pages with your passport number in a separate place. There are no foreign consulates in the Virgin Islands, so if you lose your passport, go to the local police station.

Passport Offices

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Passport Canada Program, Gatineau QC K1A 0G3 (tel 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Frederick Buildings, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel 353 1 671 1633; www.dfa.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 109 Featherston St., Wellington, 6140 (tel 0800 22 50 50 in New Zealand, or 64 4 463 9360; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the HM Passport Office, 4th Floor, Peel Building, 2 Marsham St., London, SW1P 4DF (tel 0300 222 0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Petrol -- Please see “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter for information.

Pets -- To bring your pet to the U.S.V.I., you must have a health certificate from a mainland veterinarian and show proof of vaccination against rabies. Very few hotels allow animals, so check in advance. If you’re strolling with your dog through the national park on St. John, you must keep it on a leash. Pets are not allowed at campgrounds, in picnic areas, or on public beaches. Both St. Croix and St. Thomas have veterinarians listed in the Yellow Pages.

Your dog or cat is permitted entry into the B.V.I. without quarantine, if accompanied by an Animal Health Certificate issued by the Veterinary Authority in your country of origin. This certificate has a number of requirements, including a guarantee of vaccination against rabies.

Police -- Dial tel 911 for emergencies in the U.S.V.I. The Crime Line phone number is tel 340/777-8700. The main police headquarters is currently located in the Alexander Farrelly Criminal Justice Center in Charlotte Amailie (tel 340/774-2211). In the B.V.I., the main police headquarters is on Waterfront Drive near the ferry docks on Sir Olva George’s Plaza (tel 284/494-2945) in Tortola. There are also police stations on Virgin Gorda (tel 284/495-5222) and on Jost Van Dyke (tel 284/495-9345). See individual island chapters for more detailed information.

Safety -- The Virgin Islands are a relatively safe destination. The small permanent populations are generally friendly and welcoming. That being said, St. Thomas is no longer as safe as it once was. Crime, especially muggings, is on the rise in Charlotte Amalie. Wandering the town at night, especially on the back streets (particularly on Back St.), is not recommended. Guard your valuables or store them in hotel safes if possible.

The same holds true for St. Croix and the back streets of Christiansted and Frederiksted. Although these areas are safer than St. Thomas, random acts of violence against tourists in the past, even murder, have been known to happen. Know that most crime on both these islands is petty theft aimed at unguarded possessions on the beach, unlocked parked cars, or muggings at night. Exercise the same amount of caution you would if you were traveling to an unfamiliar town on the mainland. Whether on St. Thomas or St. Croix, always take a taxi home after a night out.

St. John is a bit different, because there is no major town and most of the island is uninhabited. Muggings and petty theft do happen, but such occurrences are rarely violent. You are most likely to find your camera stolen if you leave it unattended on the beach.

The British Virgin Islands are very safe, with a very low crime rate that many attribute to the illegality of owning guns. Minor robberies and muggings do occur late at night outside bars in Road Town, especially in poorly lit areas around Wickham’s Cay I and along Waterfront Drive. Car theft in Trellis Bay and by the Road Town ferry has also been on the rise. On Virgin Gorda, most resorts don’t even have room keys (although you can lock yourself in at night), and some people have reported dropping off rental cars at the airport with the keys in the lock.

Driving safety: In general, the Virgin Islands’ steep, curvy roads are often poorly lit at night; many are potholed or have been eroded by rain runoff. St. Croix’s road network is composed of rocky, steep dirt roads through the interior. As a result, car-rental insurance is higher on this island than the others. St. John’s national park roads are for the most part excellent. For those travelers who are unaccustomed to driving on the left, we suggest leaving the night driving up to a taxi driver. Do not attempt the most rural roads at night, as cellphone service is spotty at best and breakdowns (or worse) are an all-too-perfect way to ruin your Virgin Islands vacation; see “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Smoking -- In the U.S.V.I, smoking is prohibited in restaurants and public buildings; bars may allow smoking outdoors as long as it’s 20 feet from entrance and service areas. On the B.V.I., smoking is banned in public places (bars, restaurants, nightclubs, airports, offices, and sports facilities) and within 50 feet of any public space.

Student Travel -- St. Thomas has perhaps the most youth-oriented scene of any of the Virgin Islands, British or American. Many young people who visit St. Thomas stay in the guesthouses in and around Charlotte Amalie. Beyond St. Thomas, the island of St. Croix attracts a large array of young, single travelers, mainly to the inns in and around Christiansted and Frederiksted.

Taxes -- For the U.S. Virgin Islands, the United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. The U.S.V.I. may levy their own local taxes on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. A 10 percent room tax is added to hotel bills.

The British Virgin Islands has no sales tax. It charges a departure tax of $15 per person for those leaving by boat or $20 if by airplane. Most hotels add a service charge of around 10 percent; there’s also a 7 percent government room tax. Most restaurants tack on an automatic 15 percent service charge.

Telephones -- In the Virgin Islands, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are usually astronomical, so you’re better off using your cellphone or a public pay telephone. Many convenience stores, groceries, and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost either 25[ce] or 35[ce] (no pennies, please). Many of the most rural or expressly private resorts and hotels in the Virgin Islands do not provide phones in the rooms, but have phones in their lobbies or common areas.

To make calls within the United States, including the U.S. Virgins, and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

You can call the British Virgins from the United States by just dialing 1, the area code 284, and the number; from the U.K. dial 011-44, then the number. To call the U.S. from the B.V.I., just dial 1 plus the area code and the number; to call the U.K. from the B.V.I., dial 011-44, then the number.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, “dating” services, and so on) can be very expensive—usually a charge of 95[ce] to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0, then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance (“information”), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Time -- The Virgin Islands are on Atlantic Standard Time, which is 1 hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time. However, the islands do not observe daylight saving time, so in the summer, the Virgin Islands and the East Coast of the U.S. are on the same time. In winter, when it’s 6am in Charlotte Amalie, it’s 5am in Miami; during daylight saving time it’s 6am in both places.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (obtaining difficult-to-get dinner reservations, for example). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

Note that many local restaurants tack on a service charge to the total bill, often between 10 and 15 percent; you may want to add extra if the service was good. Otherwise tip waitstaff 15 to 20 percent of the check. In bars and nightclubs, tip bartenders 15 to 20 percent of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip taxi drivers 15 percent of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15 to 20 percent. It’s always a good idea to tip tour guides or charter captains at the end of an excursion, generally 15 to 20 percent of the cost.

Toilets -- You won’t find public toilets or restrooms on the streets, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels are often the best bet for clean facilities.

Visas -- Non–U.S. visitors to the U.S. Virgin Islands should have a U.S. visa; those visitors may also be asked to produce an onward ticket. In the British Virgin Islands, visitors who stay for less than 6 months don’t need a visa if they possess a return or onward ticket.

For information about U.S. Visas, go to http://travel.state.gov and click on “Visas.” Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel 02/6214-5600), or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission’s website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain visa appointments the U.S. Embassy Visa Appointment Line (tel 020-3608-6998 from within the U.K., or tel 703/439-2367 from within the U.S.; https://ais.usvisa-info.com/en-gb). Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel 01 903-6255 from within the Republic of Ireland; http://dublin.usembassy.gov.visas.html).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel 04 462 6000 from within New Zealand; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov/visas.html).

Visitor Information -- Go to the U.S.V.I. Division of Tourism’s website at www.visitusvi.com. The British Virgin Islands Tourist Board can be found at www.bvitourism.com.

Water -- Many visitors to both the U.S. and British Virgins drink the local tap water with no harmful effects. To be prudent, especially if you have a delicate stomach, stick to bottled water. Many hotels and resorts have their own desalination plant, making delicious and highly potable water out of seawater.

Women Travelers -- St. John and the British Virgin Islands have a low crime rate, while St. Thomas and St. Croix have the highest crime rate against women in the archipelago. To put that into context, however, you are far safer in the Virgin Islands than you would be walking the streets of any major U.S. city. Follow the usual precautions that you’d follow in any major U.S. city.

Islands in Brief

The islands previewed below are chock-full of quality shopping, hotels, restaurants, attractions, and nightlife, and are the most frequently visited in the V.I. A few words about islands that aren't mentioned below: For those who want to avoid the masses, the British Virgin Islands have a number of escapist-friendly islands such as Peter Island, Mosquito Island, and Guana Island. These are virtually private hideaways, often with expensive resorts (which are the main reason for going there in the first place). Two remote British Virgin Islands with more democratically priced hotels are Anegada and Jost Van Dyke. Even if you're staying at a resort on Virgin Gorda or Tortola, you might want to join a boat excursion to visit some of the lesser-known islands as part of a sightseeing excursion (with time devoted to R & R on a nearly deserted beach, of course).

St. Thomas

The most developed of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. Thomas resembles a small city at times. There are peaceful retreats here, but you must seek them out. The harbor at Charlotte Amalie, the capital, is one of the largest cruise-ship magnets in the Caribbean. Many locals try to avoid Charlotte Amalie when the greatest concentration of vessels is in port (usually Dec-Apr). Charlotte Amalie offers the widest selection of duty-free shopping in the Caribbean. However, you must browse carefully through the labyrinth of bazaars to find the real bargains.

St. Thomas, like most of the Virgin Islands, gives you plenty of opportunity to get outside and get active, although many visitors come here simply to sit, sun, and maybe go for a swim. Magens Bay Beach, with its tranquil surf and sugar-white sand, is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, but it is likely to be packed, especially on heavy cruise-ship days. More-secluded beaches include Secret Harbour and Sapphire Beach in East End.

St. Thomas has only one golf course, Mahogany Run, but it's a real gem. The three trickiest holes (13, 14, and 15) are known throughout the golfing world as the "Devil's Triangle."

Yachts and boats anchor at Ramada Yacht Haven Marina in Charlotte Amalie and at Red Hook Marina on the island's somewhat isolated eastern tip, though the serious yachting crowd gathers at Tortola in the British Virgin Islands. Sportsfishers angle from the American Yacht Harbor at Red Hook. The island also attracts snorkelers and scuba divers -- there are many outfitters offering equipment, excursions, and instruction. Kayaking and parasailing also draw beach bums away from the water's edge.

St. Thomas has the most eclectic and sophisticated restaurant scene in the Virgin Islands. Emphasis is on French and Continental fare, but the wide selection of restaurants also includes options from Mexican, West Indian, and Italian to Asian and American. St. Thomas pays more for its imported (usually European) chefs and secures the freshest of ingredients from mainland or Puerto Rican markets.

There's also a wide variety of accommodations on St. Thomas, from the small, historic Hotel 1829 in Charlotte Amalie, to more modern beachfront complexes in the East End, including the manicured Elysian Beach Resort. Apartment and villa rentals abound, and you can also find a handful of old-fashioned B&B-style guesthouses.

St. John

Our favorite of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John has only two deluxe hotels, but you'll find several charming inns and plenty of campgrounds. The island's primary attraction is the U.S. Virgin Islands National Park, which covers more than half the island. Guided walks and safari bus tours are available to help you navigate the park, which is full of pristine beaches, secret coves, flowering trees, and ghostly remains of sugar-cane plantations. An extensive network of trails invites hiking. A third of the park is underwater. Trunk Bay, which also boasts the island's finest beach, has an amazing underwater snorkeling trail. As you can imagine, scuba diving is another major attraction on St. John.

St. John has a handful of posh restaurants, as well as a number of colorful, West Indian eateries. Many residents and long-term visitors like to bring ingredients over on the ferry from St. Thomas, where prices are lower and the selection is broader. Nightlife isn't a major attraction here; it usually consists of sipping rum drinks in a bar in Cruz Bay, and maybe listening to a local calypso band. After spending a day outdoors, most visitors on St. John are happy to turn in early.

St. Croix

This island is the second-most-visited destination in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Like St. Thomas, St. Croix is highly developed. Cruise-ship passengers continue to flood Frederiksted and the capital, Christiansted, looking for duty-free goods and a handful of white sand to take home in a plastic bag. St. Croix is also the only island that has a casino. Although parts of the island resemble American suburbia, some of St. Croix's true West Indian-style buildings have been preserved, along with many of its rich cultural traditions.

One of the best reasons to take a trip to St. Croix, even if only for a day, is to visit Buck Island National Park, just 1 1/2 miles off St. Croix's northeast coast. The park's offshore reef attracts snorkelers and divers from around the world. Signs posted along the ocean floor guide you through a forest of staghorn coral swarming with flamboyant fish.

St. Croix is the premier golfing destination in the Virgin Islands, mainly because it boasts Carambola, the archipelago's most challenging 18-hole course. St. Croix is also a tennis mecca of sorts: The Buccaneer Hotel has some of the best courts in the Virgin Islands and hosts several annual tournaments. Other sports for active vacationers include horseback riding, parasailing, sportsfishing, and water-skiing.

The restaurants on St. Croix are generally not as good as those on St. Thomas, although they claim to be. You will find plenty of small, local eateries serving up dishes and snacks ranging from West Indian curries to French croissants. Life after dark is mostly confined to a handful of bars in Christiansted.

As for accommodations, St. Croix has only a few real luxury hotels, but there are a lot of small, attractive inns. And, as on St. Thomas, it's easy to find villas and condos for rent at reasonable weekly rates.

Tortola

Tortola is the hub of the British Virgin Islands, but not always the best place for visitors, especially if you're planning to spend more than a couple of days here; we think Virgin Gorda has better hotels and restaurants. Road Town, the capital, with its minor shopping, routine restaurants, and uninspired architecture, requires a couple of hours at the most. Once you leave Road Town, however, you'll find Tortola more alluring. The island's best and most unspoiled beaches, including Smuggler's Cove (with its collection of snorkeling reefs), lie at the island's western tip. Tortola's premier beach is Cane Garden Bay, a 2.4km (1 1/2-mile) stretch of white sand. Because of the gentle surf, it's one of the safest places for families with small children. For hikers on Tortola, exploring Sage Mountain National Park, where trails lead to a 543m (1,781-ft.) peak that offers panoramic views, is a definite highlight. The park is rich in flora and fauna, from mamey trees to mountain doves.

Although many visitors to the Caribbean look forward to fishing, hiking, horseback riding, snorkeling, and surfing, what makes Tortola exceptional is boating. It is the boating center of the British Virgin Islands, which are among the most cherished sailing territories on the planet. The island offers some 100 charter yachts and 300 bareboats, and its marina and shore facilities are the most up-to-date and extensive in the Caribbean Basin.

The crystal-clear waters compensate for the island's lackluster bars and restaurants. You can count on simple and straightforward food here; we suggest any locally caught fish grilled with perhaps a little lime butter.

Virgin Gorda

Our favorite British Virgin Island is Virgin Gorda, the third-largest member of the archipelago, with a permanent population of about 1,400 lucky souls. Many visitors come over just for a day to check out the Baths, an astounding collection of gigantic rocks, boulders, and tide pools on the southern tip. Crafted by volcanic pressures millions of years ago, the boulders have eroded into shapes reminiscent of a Henry Moore sculpture. With more than 20 uncrowded beaches, the best known of which are Spring Beach and Trunk Beach, Virgin Gorda is a sun worshiper's dream come true.

Unlike Tortola, Virgin Gorda has some of the finest hotels in the Virgin Islands, including Little Dix Bay and Biras Creek. One caveat: You must be willing to pay a high price for the privilege of staying at one of these regal resorts. There are also more reasonably priced places to stay, such as Virgin Gorda Village. Outside the upscale hotels, restaurants tend to be simple places serving local West Indian cuisine. No one takes nightlife too seriously on Virgin Gorda, so there isn't very much of it.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

For the most part the accessibility of hotels and restaurants in the U.S.V.I. remains far behind the progress made on the mainland, and you must take this into account if you're planning a vacation here. Of the U.S. Virgins, St. Thomas and St. John, because of their hilly terrain, remain the most unfriendly islands to those who are wheelchair bound. Because it is flat, St. Croix is an easier place to get around.

Some resorts on St. Thomas and St. Croix have made inroads in catering to persons with disabilities; St. John and all of the British Islands lag far behind in this regard. As of this writing, about a third of the major resorts (and none of the cheaper guesthouses or villas) in St. Thomas or St. Croix have the facilities to accommodate vacationers who have disabilities. Of all the hotels in the U.S.V.I., the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas, is the most hospitable to persons with disabilities. It maintains "accessible rooms" -- rooms that can be reached without navigating stairs -- in every price category. The Ritz also offers beach wheelchairs (resting on balloon tires). Most hotels in the Virgin Islands, however, have a long way to go before they become a friend of a person with disabilities. If you're planning a vacation in the Virgin Islands, you should contact a travel agent or call the hotel of your choice to discuss your requirements.

Accessible Adventures (tel. 340/344-8302; www.accessvi.com) is a tour operator in St. Thomas that offers a land-based tour of St. Thomas in a wheelchair-accessible trolley. Originating from Wico Dock at Havensight or Crown Bay at the Sub Base, tours stop Magens Bay, Drakes Seat, Skyline Drive, and Mountain Top, and cost $34 per person.

Tips for Women Travelers

St. John and the British Virgin Islands have a low crime rate, while St. Thomas and St. Croix have the highest crime rate against women in the archipelago. However, you are far safer in the Virgin Islands than you would be walking the streets of any major U.S. city. Some of the local men (those who have not had sensitivity training) still regard a single woman as an object to hassle with unwanted attention, but such encounters happen in the Virgin Islands no more often than in most urban U.S. areas. Follow the usual precautions that you'd follow in any major U.S. city.

Tips for Student Travelers

St. Thomas has the most youth-oriented scene of any of the Virgin Islands, British or American. Some areas of St. Thomas are more popular than others with young people, especially the bars and restaurants around Red Hook. The major resorts at Flamboyant Point and the East End of St. Thomas cater mainly to a middle-age or senior crowd. Many young people who visit St. Thomas stay in the guesthouses in and around Charlotte Amalie. Beyond St. Thomas, the island of St. Croix attracts a large array of young, single travelers, mainly to the inns in and around Christiansted and Frederiksted.

When to Go

Weather

Sunshine is practically an everyday affair in the Virgin Islands. Temperatures climb into the 80s (high 20s Celsius) during the day, and drop into the more comfortable 70s (low 20s Celsius) at night. Winter is generally the dry season in the islands, but rainfall can occur at any time of the year. You don't have to worry too much, though -- tropical showers usually come and go so quickly you won't even really notice. If you're out exploring for the day, you may want to bring rain gear.

Hurricanes -- The hurricane season, the dark side of the Caribbean's beautiful weather, officially lasts from June to November. The Virgin Islands chain lies in the main pathway of many a hurricane raging through the Caribbean, and the islands are often hit. If you're planning a vacation in hurricane season, stay abreast of weather conditions. It may pay to get trip-cancellation insurance because of the possibility of hurricanes.

Islanders certainly don't stand around waiting for a hurricane to strike. Satellite forecasts generally give adequate warning to both residents and visitors. And of course, there's always prayer: Islanders have a legal holiday in the third week of July called Supplication Day, when they ask to be spared from devastating storms. In late October, locals celebrate the end of the season on Hurricane Thanksgiving Day.

The High Season & the Off Season

High season (or winter season) in the Virgin Islands, when hotel rates are at their peak, runs roughly from mid-December to mid-April. However, package and resort rates are sometimes lower in January, as a tourist slump usually occurs right after the Christmas holidays. February is the busiest month. If you're planning on visiting during the winter months, make reservations as far in advance as possible.

Off season begins when North America starts to warm up, and vacationers, assuming that temperatures in the Virgin Islands are soaring into the 100s (upper 30s Celsius), head for less tropical local beaches. However, it's actually quite balmy year-round in the Virgin Islands -- thanks to the fabled trade winds -- with temperatures varying little more than 5° between winter and summer.

There are many advantages to off-season travel in the Virgin Islands. First, from mid-April to mid-December, hotel rates are slashed a startling 25% to 50%. Second, you're less likely to encounter crowds at swimming pools, beaches, resorts, restaurants, and shops. Especially in St. Thomas and St. Croix, a slower pace prevails in the off season, and you'll have a better chance to appreciate the local culture and cuisine. Of course, there are disadvantages to off-season travel, too: Many hotels use the slower months for construction and/or restoration, fewer facilities are likely to be open, and some hotels and restaurants may close completely when business is really slow.

Additionally, if you're planning a trip during the off season and traveling alone, ask for the hotel's occupancy rate -- you may want crowds. The social scene in both the B.V.I. and the U.S.V.I. is intense from mid-December to mid-April. After that, it slumbers a bit. If you seek escape from the world and its masses, summer is the way to go, especially if you aren't depending on meeting others.

Holidays

In addition to the standard legal holidays observed in the United States, U.S. Virgin Islanders also observe the following holidays: Three Kings' Day (Jan 6); Transfer Day, commemorating the transfer of the Danish Virgin Islands to the Americans (Mar 31); Organic Act Day, honoring the legislation that granted voting rights to the islanders (June 20); Emancipation Day, celebrating the freeing of the slaves by the Danish in 1848 (July 3); Hurricane Supplication Day (July 25); Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Oct 17); Liberty Day (Nov 1); and Christmas Second Day (Dec 26). The islands also celebrate 2 carnival days on the last Friday and Saturday in April: Children's Carnival Parade and the Grand Carnival Parade.

In the British Virgin Islands, public holidays include the following: New Year's Day, Commonwealth Day (Mar 12), Good Friday, Easter Monday, Whitmonday (sometime in July), Territory Day Sunday (usually July 1), Festival Monday and Tuesday (during the first week of Aug), St. Ursula's Day (Oct 21), Birthday of the Heir to the Throne (Nov 14), Christmas Day, and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Staying Connected

Telephones

In the Virgin Islands, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are usually astronomical, so you're better off using your cellphone or a public pay telephone. Many convenience stores, groceries, and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost either 25¢ or 35¢ (no pennies, please). Many of the most rural or expressly private resorts and hotels in the Virgin Islands do not provide phones in the rooms, but have phones in their lobbies or common areas.

To make calls within the United States, including the U.S. Virgins, and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

You can call the British Virgins from the United States by just dialing 1, the area code 284, and the number; from the U.K. dial 011-44, then the number. To call the U.S. from the B.V.I., just dial 1 plus the area code and the number; to call the U.K. from the B.V.I., dial 011-44-, then the number.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0, then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

In the U.S. Virgin Islands: The two largest cellphone operators in the U.S.V.I. include Sprint PCS (www.sprint.com) and AT&T Wireless (www.att.com/wireless), which is still referred to by some locals as Cingular. Phones operating in the mainland U.S. under those plans will usually operate seamlessly, and without any excess roaming charges, in the U.S.V.I. If your phone presently operates through some other carrier, it's wise to call them before your departure about signing up (at least temporarily) for one of their international plans, which will save you money on roaming charges during the duration of your trip. If your cellphone is not equipped for reception and transmission in the U.S.V.I., consider renting (or buying) a cheap cellphone for temporary use, or, less conveniently, head for a Sprint PCS or AT&T sales outlet (each maintains offices on all three of the U.S.V.I.'s major islands) for a substitute SIM card, a key operating component that can be inserted into your existing phone, making it operational. Throughout the U.S.V.I., the electrical system is the same as within the U.S. mainland (115 volts and female sockets which accept the U.S.-style "flat" plugs), so most U.S. residents won't need any special transformers or adaptors.

In the British Virgin Islands: The two largest cellphone operators in the B.V.I. include CCT Global Communications (www.cctwireless.com) and Digicell BVI (www.digicelbvi.com), both with offices in Road Town and on Virgin Gorda. Other than that, the cellphone situation is roughly equivalent to what's described immediately above in the U.S.V.I. The electrical system in the B.V.I. is the same as that within the U.S.V.I. and the mainland U.S. (115 volts), so British and European visitors may want to bring adaptors and transformers. Hotels in the B.V.I. often have the appropriate adaptors, and in some cases, those adaptors are physically built directly into the wall sockets.

Internet & Wi-Fi

There is limited Internet access on the major islands in the Virgin Islands chain. The best chances for Internet access are found in St. Thomas, less so in St. Croix, and even less so in St. John. On some of the more remote islands, you may be completely out of luck. Your hotel remains the best bet for Internet or Wi-Fi access, as there aren't many Internet cafes in the Virgin Islands. In Charlotte Amalie, you will find a few small cafes that will let you use an Internet-ready computer for the price of a coffee. Throughout the British Virgin Islands, it is difficult to find places where you can use the Internet. Increasingly, Tortola and Virgin Gorda have Internet access, but it is still very rare in the out islands of the B.V.I.

Getting Around

By Plane

Regular flights are scheduled between St. Thomas and St. Croix, and between St. Thomas and Tortola. Seaborne Airlines (tel 866/359-8784; www.seaborneairlines.com) flies between St. Thomas and St. Croix on several runs daily; Seaborne also flies between St. Thomas and Beef Island, Tortola. Cape Air (tel 866/227-3247 in the U.S. and U.S.V.I.; www.capeair.com) offers regularly scheduled flights between St. Thomas and both St. Croix and Tortola.

St. John has no airport; passengers usually land first at St. Thomas, then take the 20-minute ferry ride to St. John.

By Boat

Ferry service is a vital link on the Virgin Islands and a wonderful, leisurely way to see these beautiful islands by water. On the U.S. Virgin Islands, public ferries between St. Thomas and St. John (private water taxis also operate on this route) run at regular times all day long. Launch services link Red Hook, on the East End of St. Thomas, with both Charlotte Amalie in St. Thomas and Cruz Bay in St. John (not to mention Tortola and Virgin Gorda). At press time, there was no regular ferry between St. Thomas and St. Croix (although plans were in the works at press time for a high-speed ferry service between the islands).

Ferries are also a vital link between the U.S. Virgins and the B.V.I.—and the interisland public ferries are generally a more economical alternative to flying between the U.S. Virgins and the B.V.I. Ferries run from both ferry terminals on St. Thomas (Charlotte Amalie and Red Hook) to either West End or Road Town on Tortola, a 45- to 55-minute voyage. In the B.V.I., ferries and private boats link Road Town, Tortola, with the island’s West End; there’s also service to and from Virgin Gorda and some of the smaller islands, such as Anegada and Jost Van Dyke. Note that on some of the really remote islands, boat service may be only once a week. Many of the private island resorts, such as Peter Island, provide launches from Tortola or from the airport in St. Thomas.

Inter Island Boat Services (tel 284/495-4166; www.interislandboatservices.com): Makes runs between Red Hook (St. Thomas), Cruz Bay (St. John), and the West End (Tortola), with stops on Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, and Anegada. Rates between St. Thomas and Tortola are $30 one-way; $45 round-trip.

Native Son (tel 284/495-4617 in the U.S.V.I. or 340/774-8685 in the B.V.I.; www.nativesonferry.com): Makes daily runs between St. Thomas (both Red Hook and Charlotte Amalie) and Tortola (both West End and Road Town). Prices are $30 one-way; $50 round-trip.

Road Town Fast Ferry (tel 340/777-2800 in the U.S.V.I or 284/494-2323 in the B.V.I.; www.roadtownfastferry.com): Offers daily runs between Charlotte Amalie and Road Town, Tortola, on sleek air-conditioned high-speed catamarans. Fares are $35 one-way; $60 round-trip; group rates available.

Smith’s Ferry Service (tel 340/775-5235; www.bviferryservices.com): Known as the “Tortola Fast Ferry,” Smith’s operates daily service between Tortola and St. Thomas; between Tortola and Virgin Gorda; and charter service to outer B.V.I. islands. Prices $30 to $40 one-way; $50 to $60 round-trip.

Speedy’s (tel 284/495-7292; www.bviferries.com): Speedy’s operates routes between Charlotte Amalie (St. Thomas) and Tortola (Road Town); Charlotte Amalie and Virgin Gorda; Tortola (Road Town and Beef Island) and Virgin Gorda. B.V.I. domestic fares are $20 one-way, $30 round-trip. Fares for travel between the U.S.V.I. and the B.V.I. are $25–$40 one-way, $45–$70 round-trip.

By Car

A rental car is often the best way to get around each of the Virgin Islands. Just remember the most important rule: In both the U.S. and the British Virgin Islands, you must drive on the left.

All the major car-rental companies are represented in the U.S. Virgin Islands, including Avis (tel 800/331-1212; www.avis.com), Budget (tel 800/626-4516; www.budget.com), and Hertz (tel 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com); many local agencies also compete in the car-rental market. On St. Thomas and St. Croix, you can pick up most rental cars at the airport. On St. John, there are car-rental stands at the ferry dock. Cars are sometimes in short supply during the high season, so reserve as far in advance as possible.

Parking lots in the U.S. Virgin Islands can be found in Charlotte Amalie, on St. Thomas, and in Christiansted, on St. Croix (in Frederiksted, you can generally park on the street). Most hotels, except those in the congested center of Charlotte Amalie, have free parking lots.

Even though taxi service in the British Virgin Islands is readily available, we highly recommend renting a car, particularly in Tortola. Given that, you’ll have to drive on the left along roads that can be hairy or feel like roller-coaster rides. (If you plan to stay in the B.V.I. longer than 30 days, you must purchase a temporary local driver’s license for $10 from police headquarters or a car-rental desk in town.) You must be at least 25 years old to rent a car in the B.V.I. Most of the major U.S. car-rental companies are represented on these islands, but you’ll find a number of reliable local companies as well, many conveniently located near the ferry docks and in the main towns. Vehicles come in a wide range of styles and prices, including Jeeps, Land Rovers, mini mokes, and even six- to eight-passenger Suzukis. Weekly rates are usually slightly cheaper.

Note: There are no car-rental agencies at the airports on Tortola or Virgin Gorda.

GASOLINE -- St. Thomas has plenty of service stations, especially on the outskirts of Charlotte Amalie and at strategic points in the north and in the more congested East End. On St. Croix, most gas stations are in Christiansted, but there are also some along the major roads and at Frederiksted. On St. John, make sure your tank is filled up at Cruz Bay before heading out on a tour of the island.

Gas stations are not as plentiful on the British Virgin Islands. Road Town, the capital of Tortola, has the most gas stations; fill up here before touring the island. Virgin Gorda has a limited but sufficient number of gas stations. Chances are you won’t be using a car on the other, smaller British Virgin Islands.

Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

BREAKDOWNS -- All the major islands, including St. Thomas, St. John, St. Croix, Tortola, and Virgin Gorda, have garages that will tow vehicles. Always call the rental company first if you have a breakdown. If your car requires extensive repairs because of a mechanical failure, a new one will be sent to replace it.

By Taxi

Taxis are the main mode of transport on all the Virgin Islands. On St. Thomas, taxi vans carry up to a dozen passengers to multiple destinations; smaller private taxis are also available. You’ll find plenty of taxis on arrival at the airport. On St. John, both private taxis and vans for three or more passengers are available. On St. Croix, taxis congregate at the airport, in Christiansted, and in Frederiksted, where the cruise ships arrive. On all the islands, you’ll see more and more open-air safari “buses” (more like retrofitted flat-bed trucks) capable of handling up to 30 passengers, which taxi drivers use largely to transport groups (for instance, cruise-ship passengers) on island tours and excursions. Increasingly, these safari buses are also used as pickup and dropoff taxis.

Throughout the U.S.V.I, standard per-person taxi rates are set by the local government (look for a complete rate listing at the St. Thomas airport or in free local magazines like “This Week”)—but it’s always good to confirm the rate before the ride begins.

On the British Virgin Islands, taxis are readily available and, on some to the smaller islands, often the best way to get around. Service is available on Tortola, Virgin Gorda, and Anegada, and rates are fixed by the local government.

Tip: It’s highly recommended that if you find a good taxi driver on the islands, get his or her card—not only will you have a reliable driver to drop you off and pick you up places but most drivers are smart and entertaining island guides. Rates for sightseeing taxi tours are also generally regulated by the government. The standard taxi tour on St. Thomas, for example, is $50 for one or two passengers and $25 per extra passenger.

By Bus

The only islands with recommendable bus service are St. Thomas and St. Croix. On St. Thomas, buses leave from Charlotte Amalie and circle the island; on St. Croix, air-conditioned buses run from Christiansted to Frederiksted. Bus service elsewhere is highly erratic; it’s mostly used by locals going to and from work.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

The Virgin Islands, along with Puerto Rico, are some of the most gay-friendly destinations in the Caribbean. However, discretion is still advised in some parts. Islanders tend to be very religious and conservative, and displays of same-sex affection, such as hand holding, are frowned upon.

St. Thomas is the most cosmopolitan of the Virgin Islands, but it is no longer the "gay paradise" it was in the 1960s and 1970s. Most gay vacationers now head for Frederiksted, in St. Croix, which has more hotels and other establishments catering primarily to the gay market, none better than the Sand Castle on the Beach or the Palms at Pelican Cove. In Charlotte Amalie, on St. Thomas, the most boisterous gay nightlife takes place in the Frenchtown section of the city. On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights beginning at around 11pm, gay men and women flock to Stereo, Frenchtown Mall, 24-A Honduras, in Frenchtown (tel. 340/774-5348), which is upstairs over the Epernay Bistro.

The B.V.I., however, still remain uptight and closeted toward gay visitors. Sometimes when a gay man wants to let loose, he takes the boat to Charlotte Amalie.

Tips for Families

Most of the Virgin Islands, both U.S. and British, are family-friendly. St. Thomas and St. Croix have the most facilities and attractions for families. The British Virgin Islands have significantly fewer family-oriented activities, and some of the smaller and less developed islands don't cater much to children, although families who love spending whole days on the beach will probably have a great time. When compared with some of the other major destinations in the Caribbean (such as Jamaica, where crime is high), the U.S. Virgins are generally safe, and the British Virgin Islands are even safer.

Getting Married

The U.S. Virgin Islands are increasingly popular as a wedding venue. Each island boasts wedding consultants who work hand in glove with resort hotels, and take care of everything from airline tickets to flowers. Although there are some independent small consultants, we have found that the best deals are arranged by a specialist at one of the resort hotels. Our favorites include Vera Payne at Caneel Bay on St. John (tel. 340/776-6111), Luza Gutierrez at Frenchman's Reef & Morning Star Marriott Beach Resort on St. Thomas (tel. 800/FOR-LOVE [367-5683]), and Candy McGinley at the Buccaneer on St. Croix (tel. 800/255-3881 or 340/773-2100).

Marrying in the U.S. Virgin Islands

No blood tests or physical examinations are necessary, but there is a $50 license fee, a $50 notarized application, and an 8-day waiting period, which is sometimes waived, depending on circumstances. Civil ceremonies before a judge of the territorial court cost $200 each; religious ceremonies performed by clergy are equally valid. Fees and schedules for church weddings must be negotiated directly with the officiate. More information is available from the U.S. Virgin Islands Department of Tourism, 1270 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020 (tel. 800/372-USVI [372-8784] or 212/332-2222; www.usvitourism.vi). The guide Getting Married in the U.S. Virgin Islands is distributed by U.S.V.I. tourism offices; it gives information on all three islands, including wedding planners, places of worship, florists, and limousine services. It also provides a listing of island accommodations that offer in-house wedding services.

Couples can apply for a marriage license for St. Thomas or St. John by contacting the Superior Court of the Virgin Islands, P.O. Box 70, St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00804 (tel. 340/774-0640). For weddings on St. Croix, contact the Territorial Court of the Virgin Islands, Family Division, P.O. Box 929, Christiansted, St. Croix, U.S.V.I. 00821 (tel. 340/773-1130).

Marrying in the British Virgin Islands

There's no requirement of island residency, but a couple must apply for a license at the attorney general's office, and stay in the B.V.I. for at least 3 days while the paperwork is processed. You'll need to present a passport or an original birth certificate and photo identification, plus certified proof of your single marital status, including any divorce or death certificates pertaining to former spouses. Two witnesses must accompany the couple. The license fee is $110. Local registrars will perform marriages, or you can choose your own officiate. For information and an application for a license, contact the Registrar's Office, P.O. Box 418, Road Town, Tortola, B.V.I. (tel. 284/494-3701 or 494-3492).

Commitment Ceremonies for Gay & Lesbian Travelers

When there's a request for a commitment ceremony on St. Croix, all eyes turn to the Palms at Pelican Cove, a former "gay but straight-friendly" resort which, under new owners, still thoughtfully maintains an open attitude among its diverse guests.

Ceremonies are usually performed at sunset, on a photogenic stretch of white-sand beach. From there, it's an easy walk to the bar and restaurant for after-ceremony celebrations. The Palms has access to three or four spiritualists/theologians, one of whom is a sea captain. The commitment ceremonies are not legally binding, and their legalities have not yet been tested in the courts.

Visitor Information

You can surf the U.S.V.I. Division of Tourism's website at www.visitusvi.com. The British Virgin Islands Tourist Board can be found at www.bvitourism.com.

In the U.S.: Before you take off for the U.S. Virgin Islands, you can get information from the U.S. Virgin Islands Division of Tourism, 1270 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY (tel. 800/372-8784 or 212-332-2222); 225 Peachtree St., N.E., No. 760, Atlanta, GA (tel. 404/688-0906); 122 S. Michigan Ave., No. 1270, Chicago, Il., (tel. 312-670-8784); 900 17th St., Ste. 500, Washington, DC 20006 (tel. 202/293-3707); 2655 Le Jeune Rd., Ste. 907, Coral Gables, FL 33134 (tel. 305/442-7200); and 3450 Wilshire Blvd., Ste. 1202, Los Angeles, CA 90010 (tel. 213/739-8931). For details on the British Virgin Islands, get in touch with the British Virgin Islands Tourist Board at 3450 Wilshire Blvd., Ste. 1202, Los Angeles, CA 90010 (tel. 213/736-8931).

In the U.K.: Information for the British Virgin Islands is available at the B.V.I. Information Office, 15 Upper Grosvenor St., London W1K 7PS (tel. 020/7355-9585).

Getting There

By Plane

A number of major airlines have regularly scheduled nonstop air service from cities all over North America into St. Thomas—the major international gateway to the Virgins. But most flights include stopovers in Miami or San Juan. Currently, there are no direct flights from North America or Europe to any of the British Virgin Islands. Anyone planning to visit the B.V.I. will likely have to fly into St. Thomas, San Juan (Puerto Rico), or Miami and make a connection by ferry or air in lieu of a direct flight (there are also connections through St. Kitts and Antigua). Those traveling from overseas will also most likely make a connection in St. Thomas, St. Croix, or San Juan after first connecting in the mainland U.S.

The major airports in the Virgin Islands are the Cyril E. King Airport (tel 340/774-5100; www.viport.com/airports.html; airport code STT) in St. Thomas and the Henry E. Rohlsen Airport, Estate Mannings Bay (tel 340/778-1012; airport code STX), on St. Croix. From these airports, you can take ferries or small planes on to your destination in the Virgin Islands.

For more information on getting to each island, see the “Getting There” sections in the individual island chapters.

By Cruise Ship

The Virgin Islands are a popular stop for cruise ships traveling the Caribbean, in particular Charlotte Amalie in St. Thomas, one of the world’s busiest cruise ports, which welcomed nearly 1,800,000 cruise passengers in 2012, and that number was expected to rise by 7.8 percent for the 2013/2014 season. In comparison, the historic waterfront of St. Croix saw the arrival of only 117,000 cruise passengers in 2012. Tortola recorded nearly 400,000 cruise passengers in 2012 but lost a big chunk of its market when Carnival Cruise Line announced in late 2013 that it would suspend travel to Tortola indefinitely while the island overhauls its docking facilities.

The Cruise Lines -- Most of the major cruise lines include regular stops in St. Thomas in their Caribbean itineraries, including the biggest cruise ships in the world, such as the Royal Caribbean’s mega ships Allure of the Sea and Oasis of the Sea, each with a maximum passenger capacity of more than 6,000 people; Norwegian Cruise Line’s Epic; and Princess Cruise Line’s Royal Princess.

The port at Charlotte Amalie is one of the world’s busiest cruise ports, welcoming nearly 1,800,000 cruise passengers in 2012 (the last date for which there are figures). Cruise ships dock at one of two major piers, each with room for two mega-ships at a time: Havensight Pier and Crown Bay. In high season for cruising, it’s not unusual to have an additional one or two ships anchored in the harbor, delivering cruise-ship passengers to shore in tenders.

Cruise lines that make stops in St. Croix included Celebrity (Summit, Century); Norwegian Cruise Line (Jewel); Royal Caribbean (Vision, Adventure); Holland America (Maasdam); and Silversea (Silver Cloud).

Cruise lines that dock in Road Town, Tortola, include Regent Seven Seas (Windstar); Costa Cruise Lines (Costa Magica); Crystal; Celebrity; Royal Caribbean (Jewel of the Seas); Cunard; Holland America; Silver Seas (Silver Spirit); and P&O Cruises (Arcadia).

Carnival Cruise Lines (tel. 888/CARNIVAL [227-6482]; www.carnival.com) offers affordable vacations on some of the biggest and most brightly decorated ships afloat. It's the richest, boldest, brashest, and most successful mass-market cruise line in the world. Its boats leave from Miami, Tampa, New Orleans, Mobile, Port Canaveral, and San Juan, and stop over at selected ports throughout the eastern and western Caribbean, including St. Thomas, St. Lucia, San Juan, St. Martin, Barbados, Martinique, Grand Cayman, and Jamaica. Most of its cruises offer good value, last from 4 to 8 days, and feature nonstop activities, lots of glitter, and the hustle and bustle of armies of passengers and crew members embarking and disembarking at every port.

Celebrity Cruises (tel. 877/202-4345; www.celebrity-cruises.com) maintains 10 medium to large ships offering cruises of between 7 and 11 nights to such ports as Key West, San Juan, Grand Cayman, St. Thomas, Ocho Rios, Antigua, and Cozumel, Mexico, among others. The line is unpretentious and classy (several notches above mass market), but offers pricing that's nonetheless relatively competitive. Accommodations are roomy and well equipped, and the cuisine is among the most refined on the seas.

Princess Cruises (tel. 800/PRINCESS [774-6237]; www.princess.com) places more emphasis on luxury living on a mass scale than any other line afloat. The company's ships usually carry fewer passengers than similarly sized vessels on other lines. Cruises last between 7 and 15 days, and include stops at such islands as Aruba, Barbados, Caracas, Dominica, Grenada, St. Lucia, St. Martin, St. Kitts, and St. Thomas.

Royal Caribbean International (tel. 866/562-7625; www.royalcaribbean.com) leads the industry in the development of megaships. This mainstream, mass-market cruise line encourages a restrained house-party atmosphere that's somehow a bit less frenetic than that of other "party-style" cruise lines. Though accommodations and accouterments are more than adequate, they are not upscale, and cabins aboard some of the line's older vessels tend to be a bit more cramped than the industry norm. Using Miami, San Juan, or Fort Lauderdale as their home ports, Royal Caribbean ships call regularly at such ports as St. Thomas, San Juan, Ocho Rios, St. Martin, Grand Cayman, St. Croix, and Curaçao. Most of the company's cruises last for 7 days, although some weekend jaunts from San Juan to St. Thomas are available for 3 nights.

Seabourn Cruise Line (tel. 800/929-9391; www.seabourn.com) is an upscale, expensive outfit known for luxurious, small-scale ships. Its deluxe Seabourn Legend and Seabourn Pride spend from 10 to 14 days sailing the eastern Caribbean, leaving from Fort Lauderdale. There are more activities than you'd expect aboard such relatively small ships (10,000 tons), and an absolutely amazing amount of onboard space per passenger. Cuisine is superb, served within a dining room that's unapologetically formal.

Tips on Accommodations

Throughout this book, we provide detailed descriptions of the lodging properties so that you get an idea of what to expect. Keep in mind that many of the more high-end island resorts charge a daily resort fee of between $35 and $50.

Resorts and hotels in the Virgin Islands offer money-saving package deals galore, and you can find land-air (and land-air-rental-car) packages on almost all of the online travel agencies (Expedia.com, Orbitz.com, Priceline.com, VacMart.com, CheapCaribbean.com). Be sure to check the hotel’s own websites: Many hotels offer terrific online-only multi-stay or theme deals (especially in the off season).

Like most Caribbean islands, the Virgins have high and low seasons, and properties are priced accordingly. The most exorbitant rates are charged during the Christmas and New Year’s holidays. If you have flexibility in your travel times, keep in mind that during the off season (mid-Apr to mid-Dec), most hotels offer tremendous deals, often slashing 25 to 50 percent off their regular-season prices.

Renting Your Own Villa or Vacation Home

Another popular lodging alternative, and a smart money-saving option if you’re traveling with a large party of family or friends, is renting a villa, condo, apartment, or cottage for your Virgin Islands vacation. Having your own self-catering facilities can be a big money-saver—dining out is chillingly pricey in the Virgin Islands. Note: If you’re planning your trip for the high season, reservations should be made at least 5 to 6 months in advance.

Dozens of agencies throughout the United States and Canada offer rentals in the Virgin Islands. Villas of Distinction (tel 800/289-0900; www.villasofdistinction.com) offers “complete vacations,” including car rental and domestic help. Its private luxury villas have one to seven-plus bedrooms, and many have swimming pools. Rates run from $500 a night and up.

Vacation St. Croix, 4000 La Grande Princesse, Christiansted (tel 877/788-0361 or 340/718-0361; www.vacationstcroix.com), offers some of the best properties on St. Croix, specializing in villas, condos, and private homes, many of which are on the beach. Two- to seven-bedroom units are available, with prices from $1,000 to $15,000 per week.

Best of BVI (tel 1252-674878 from the U.K. and 011/44-1252-674878 from the U.S; www.bestofbvi.com) handles properties you won’t find anywhere else, including a one-bedroom cottage on Little Thatch Island, a privately owned island minutes from Soper’s Hole; Best of BVI also has a hugely informative trip-planning website, with an up-to-date ferry schedule). Jewels of the BVI (tel 866/468-6284; www.jewelsofthebvi.com) represents only BVI Islander–owned properties, including villas, condos, and resorts.

At Home Abroad (tel 212/421-9165; www.athomeabroadinc.com) has a roster of private luxury homes, villas, and condos for rent in St. Thomas, St. John, Tortola, and Virgin Gorda; maid service is included in the price. In the U.K., browse the options offered through Holiday Rentals (tel 020/8846-3441; www.holiday-rentals.co.uk).

You can also find excellent deals on popular owner-rented vacation lodging websites, including VRBO (www.vrbo.com) and HomeAway (www.homeaway.com); both websites list numerous attractive villas and condos throughout the Virgins. What you will not get with these rentals is service (unless advertised) or even guarantees that the rental is what is appears to be. Both VRBO and HomeAway sell rental guarantee insurance ($39 and up) that guarantees your money back under certain circumstances (the property has been double-booked or grossly misrepresented, for example)—so you may want to weigh that extra fee against the low rental rates.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entering the U.S. Virgin Islands During the Covid-19 Pandemic

In response to the global coronavirus pandemic, the U.S. Virgin Islands have established the following rules:

All incoming visitors must submit negative molecular or antigen test results, received no more than 5 days before travel. The full rules are available here, as is a portal for submitting test results. Upon arrival in the USVI, visitors must present their test result and travel certification from the portal. They will have your temperature checked at the airport. While on the islands, it is expected that both citizens and visitors wear a mask and practice social distancing in public areas.

Passports

If you're a U.S. citizen and you travel directly to the U.S.V.I. and do not visit the British Virgin Islands, you do not need a passport—but you are highly encouraged to carry one. If you return to the mainland U.S. from the U.S.V.I. through another country (Mexico or Bermuda, for example), you will need a passport to get back home. For non-U.S. citizens, visiting the U.S. Virgin Islands is just like visiting the mainland United States: You need a passport and visa.

A passport is necessary for all visitors to the British Virgin Islands (including citizens of the U.K.).

For information on how to get a passport, contact your passport office. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods. And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee. When traveling, safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt, and keep a copy of the critical pages with your passport number in a separate place. There are no foreign consulates in the Virgin Islands, so if you lose your passport, go to the local police station.

Passport Offices

• Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).
• Canada -- Passport Office (www.canada.ca, click on "Travel and Tourism").
• Ireland -- Passport Office (www.dfa.ie, click on "Passport Services").
• New Zealand -- Passports Office (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
• United Kingdom -- HM Passport Office (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.gov.uk, click on "HM Passport Office").
• United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. Department of State website (travel.state.gov/passport).

Visas

Non-U.S. visitors to the U.S. Virgin Islands should have a U.S. visa; those visitors may also be asked to produce an onward ticket. The exception is if they're from a country that is a member of the Visa Waiver Program (VWP) which allows certion nationalities to stay in the United States for up to 90 days without a visa (check website of the U.S. State Department for the VWP list). In the British Virgin Islands, visitors who stay for less than 6 months don't need a visa if they possess a return or onward ticket.

For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "U.S. Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Customs

Every visitor to the U.S.V.I. 21 years of age or older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars, or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $800 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is altogether forbidden to bring into the country certain foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult U.S. Customs (tel. 800/232-5378; www.cbp.gov).

Visitors to the B.V.I. can bring in food, with the exception of meat products that are not USDA-approved. Visitors can bring up to $10,000 in currency and 1 liter of alcohol per person.

Australian Citizens: The Australian government provides a detailed list of what can and cannot be brought home from abroad (www.abf.gov.au; click on "Entering and Leaving Australia").

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, go to the Canada Border Services Agency (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca, click on "Customs Tarriff").

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered by the New Zealand Customs Service (www.customs.govt.nz, click on "Personal" to see the rules for individuals bringing goods back into the country).

U.K. Citizens: Full information can be found on the website of the HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (www.gov.uk). Please note that there are different rules in place for UK citizens bringing back goods from the British Virgin Islands, versus the U.S. Virgin Islands. If you visit both and buy goods in both, be sure to keep careful track of your receipts.

U.S. Citizens & Residents: From the U.S.V.I., U.S. citizens can bring back $1600 worth of goods duty-free. That can include 5 liters of liquor, plus an extra liter of rum (including Cruzan rum) if one of the bottles is produced in the Virgin Islands.

Be sure to collect receipts for all purchases in the Virgin Islands, and beware of merchants offering to give you a false receipt -- he or she might be an informer to U.S. Customs. Also, keep in mind that any gifts received during your stay must be declared. For the most up-to-date specifics on what you can bring back from the B.V.I. and the corresponding fees, go to www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel").

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever, see top of page for Covid-19 information), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the U.S. Virgin Islands or the British Virgin Islands.

If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you -- smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.