Active Pursuits

There's no rule that says you have to confine yourself to a beach chair within arm's length of the bar while visiting the Virgin Islands (though there's no rule against it, either). You will have endless opportunities to sit by the surf sipping rum drinks, but remember that these islands offer more than just a coastline. Coral reefs and stunning beaches provide breathtaking backdrops for a variety of watersports, from snorkeling to sea kayaking and sailing, and there's also plenty of golf, tennis, hiking, and even horseback riding. This section presents an overview of the outdoor activities on the Virgin Islands.

Camping -- The best campsites in the Virgin Islands are on St. John, at Maho Bay and Cinnamon Bay (the Cinnamon Bay campground is considered one of the finest campgrounds in the Caribbean). Both facilities are open year-round and are so popular that reservations need to be made far in advance during the winter months. In the British Virgin Islands, the best campsite is Tortola's Brewers Bay Campground, which rents tents and basic equipment and is open year-round.

Fishing -- In the last 25 years or so, more than 20 sport-fishing world records have been set in the Virgin Islands, mostly for the mega blue marlin. Other abundant fish in these waters are bonito, tuna, wahoo, sailfish, and skipjack. Sport-fishing charters, led by experienced local captains, abound in the islands; both half-day and full-day trips are available. But you needn't go out to sea to fish. On St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix, the U.S. government publishes lists of legal shoreline fishing spots (contact local tourist offices for more information). Closer inshore, you'll find kingfish, mackerel, bonefish, tarpon, amberjack, grouper, and snapper.

On St. Thomas, many people line-fish from the rocky shore along Mandahl Beach, which is also a popular spot for family picnics. The shore here is not the best place for swimming, because the sea floor drops off dramatically and the surf tends to be rough. On St. John, the waters in Virgin Islands National Park are open to fishermen with hand-held rods. No fishing license is required for shoreline fishing, and government pamphlets available at tourist offices list some 100 good spots. Call tel. 340/774-8784 for more information.

Golf -- The golfing hub of the Virgin Islands is the challenging Carambola Golf & Country Club (tel. 340/778-5638; www.golfcarambola.com) in St. Croix. Also on St. Croix is the excellent course at the Buccaneer (tel. 340/773-2100), just outside Christiansted. The highlight on St. Thomas is the Mahogany Run (tel. 800/253-7103 or 340/777-6006; www.mahoganyrungolf.com). There aren't any courses on St. John or the British Virgin Islands.

Hiking -- The best islands for hiking are Tortola and St. John. In Tortola, the best hiking is through Sage Mountain National Park, spread across 37 hectares (92 acres) of luxuriant flora and fauna. On St. John, the most intriguing hike is the Annaberg Historic Trail, which takes you by former plantation sites. Most of St. John is itself a National Park, so there are dozens of opportunities for hiking. St. Croix also has good hiking in its "Rain Forest" area. Buck Island, off the coast of St. Croix, is beloved by snorkelers and scuba divers but also fascinating to hike. You can easily explore the island in a day, as it is only half a mile wide and a mile long. While hiking in the Virgin Islands you'll encounter many birds and flowers -- but no poisonous snakes. Be sure to look for the trumpet-shaped "ginger thomas," the U.S. Virgin Island's official flower.

Horseback Riding -- Equestrians should head for St. Croix. Paul and Jill's Equestrian Stables (tel. 340/772-2880; www.paulandjills.com), at Sprat Hall Plantation, are the best stables not only in the Virgin Islands but also in all the Caribbean. The outfit is known for the quality of both its horses and riding trails. Neophytes and experts are welcome.

Sea Kayaking -- Arawak Expeditions, Cruz Bay, St. John (tel. 800/238-8687 or 340/693-8312 in the U.S.; www.arawakexp.com), is the only outfitter in the Virgin Islands offering multiple-day sea-kayaking/island-camping excursions, although numerous outfitters and hotels throughout the chain provide kayaks for day trips. The vessels with Arawak Expeditions are in two-person fiberglass kayaks, complete with foot-controlled rudders. The outfit provides all the kayaking gear, healthy meals, camping equipment, and experienced guides. The cost of a full-day trip is $90, half-day, $50; you can also book longer expeditions, such as a 5-day excursion costing $1,245 per person or a 7-day trip going for $1,449 per person.

Snorkeling & Scuba Diving -- On St. Croix, the best site for both is Buck Island, easily accessible by day sails from the harbor in Christiansted. St. Croix is also known for its dramatic "drop-offs," including the famous Puerto Rico Trench.

On St. Thomas, all major hotels rent fins and masks for snorkelers, and most day-sail charters have equipment onboard. Many outfitters, like the St. Thomas Diving Club (tel. 877/538-8734 or 340/776-2381; www.stthomasdivingclub.com), also feature scuba programs.

As for the British Virgin Islands, the best snorkeling is around the Baths, Virgin Gorda's major attraction. Anegada Reef, which lies off Anegada Island, has been a "burial ground" for ships for centuries; an estimated 300 wrecks, including many pirate ships, have perished here. The wreckage of the HMS Rhone, near the westerly tip of Salt Island, is the most celebrated dive spot in the B.V.I. This ship went under in 1867 in one of the most disastrous hurricanes ever to hit the Virgin Islands.

Diving cruises are packaged by Oceanic Society Expeditions, Fort Mason Center, San Francisco, CA 94123 (tel. 800/326-7491; www.oceanic-society.org), which also offers whale-watching and some research-oriented trips.

Tennis -- Tennis is becoming a major sport in the Virgin Islands. Most courts are all-weather or Laykold. Because of intense midday heat, many courts are lit for night games. Pro shops, complete with teaching pros, are available at the major tennis resorts, especially on St. Croix and St. Thomas.

St. Thomas has six public (and free) tennis courts that operate on a first-come, first-served basis. If the courts at the major hotels aren't booked by resident guests, you can usually play there for a minimal fee as long as you call a day in advance. Both Bolongo Bay and Frenchman's Reef & Morning Star Marriott Beach Resort have four courts.

The best tennis facilities in the Virgin Islands are on St. Croix at the Buccaneer, which has eight meticulously maintained courts and a state-of-the-art pro shop. The island also has seven public courts, but they're rather rough around the edges.

On Tortola, there are six courts at Prospect Reef; they're often open to nonguests for a fee. If you're a serious tennis buff and are planning to stay on Virgin Gorda, consider Little Dix Bay, which has seven beautiful courts reserved for guests only.