The Vintage Press

This has long been considered the best restaurant in a 100-mile radius, a bastion of culinary merit in the gastronomic wasteland between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The design is reminiscent of a fin de siècle gin mill in Gold Rush San Francisco, with a bar imported from that city, manufactured by the Brunswick Company (of bowling-alley fame); antiques bought at local auctions; and glittering panels of leaded glass and mirrors. The place is big enough (250 seats) to feed a boatload of Gold Rush hopefuls, and a pianist plays Thursday through Saturday, from 5:30 to 9pm, at the bustling bar and lounge.

The menu is supplemented by daily specials, such as a zesty rack of lamb roasted in a cabernet sauce with rosemary. The regular menu offers about a dozen meat and fish dishes, with steaks as well as choices such as pistachio-crusted king salmon with potato gratin; or pork tenderloin with Dijon mustard, red chile, and honey. To start, I recommend farm-raised fresh oysters on the half shell or the wild mushrooms with cognac in puff pastry. The restaurant's wine cellar, a winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, offers more than 1,000 selections.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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