Northern Viti Levu -- The area's most modern accommodation is at Wananavu Beach Resort, P.O. Box 305, Rakiraki (tel. 669 4433; fax 669 4499; www.wananavu.com), on Viti Levu's northernmost point. Substituting for a natural beach, the resort's marina is the launching pad for diving trips to the colorful reefs offshore. The dining room, bar, three villas (all with kitchens, some with two bedrooms), and most of the 15 guest bungalows have great ocean views from their hillside perches. All units here are air-conditioned and have fridges and coffeemaking facilities but none has a phone or TV. Rates range from F$300 to F$475 (US$180-US$285).
Hilly, anvil-shaped Nananu-I-Ra island, a 15-minute boat ride from Ellington Wharf, has long been popular as a sunny retreat for local Europeans who own beach cottages there (the island is all freehold land). Although young backpackers today are more likely to head for the Yasawas, some still stop off here for a few days on their way by bus and ferry from Nadi to Savusavu and Taveuni. All that sunshine has a price, for Nananu-I-Ra is semiarid between May and September, when water shortages can occur. Accordingly, backpackers usually bring extra drinking water as well as their own groceries.
Of the backpackers' resorts, Betham's Beach Cottages, P.O. Box 5, Rakiraki (tel./fax 669 4132), and MacDonald's Nananu Beach Cottages, P.O. Box 140, Rakiraki (tel. 669 4633), have the flavor of a relaxing but polite visit to grandma's (translated: no loud parties or topless sunbathing). All have dorm beds for about F$20 (US$12) per person and cottages ranging from about F$50 to F$95 (US$30-US$57) single or double. These properties promote heavily at Nadi's inexpensive hotels and hostels, so you will have no trouble getting the full details.
