Surt's at Volcano Village

A cozy bistro with a couple of tables on the deck fronting the Volcano Store, Surt's is a popular stop for fresh fish and curries prepared with a fusion touch. It's wonderful to enter the Euro-upcountry ambiance of this cheery cocoon (white tablecloths and candles, smartly dressed servers), where wildlife artist Marian Berger's paintings adorn the knotty-pine walls. We applaud the menu's ambitiousness, but calorie-watchers, beware: Surt's is more French than Asian, with butter a primary ingredient. The choices usually include five or six different fishes (opakapaka, hebi, opah, kajiki, ahi), in several fusion preparations.

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