Attractions

In Oneroa, visit the upgraded Waiheke Community Art Gallery, 2 Kororoa Road (tel. 09/372-9907; www.waihekeartgallery.org.nz), where you'll find a wide range of works from the many resident artists and craftspeople on the island. It's open daily from 10am to 4pm. Nearby is the fascinating Whittakers Musical Museum (tel. 09/372-5573; www.musical-museum.org), where Lloyd and Joan Whittaker will hold you spellbound with their live performances for about NZ$12 (US$8.50/£4.30) on a range of antique musical instruments, including organs, concertinas, pianolas, and mouth organs.

The Waiheke Island Historic Village & Museum, 165 Onetangi Rd. (tel. 09/372-2970), is overlooked by a fortified Maori settlement site first inhabited 700 years ago. There are old cottages with collections of furniture, books, documents, and photographs. It's open Monday, Wednesday, and weekends year-round, and daily during school holidays and in summer, from noon to 4pm. Catch the Onetangi Bus no. 1 to get there.

Be up early to experience a bit of local culture at the Ostend Market, Ostend Hall, corner of Ostend Road and Belgium Street. A parade of local pottery, island-made goods, fruits and vegetables, herbal remedies, massage, plants, herbs, and more, it's held every Saturday from 8am to 1pm. On Sunday between 10am and 2pm, visit the Oneroa Market, Artworks Courtyard, Ocean View Road, where you'll find musicians and other performers, crafts, and food.

Another "must" activity is a drive to the glorious Onetangi Bay -- in my mind, one of the best beaches in New Zealand. Here you can swim and surf in crystal-clear water with views as far as the eye can see. If you want to feel the true spirit of freedom, take it all off at the western end of Palm Beach, a small bay used for nude swimming.

If you'd like a peek into a fabulous private garden, check out Lance and Kay Peterson's Te Whau Garden, 31 Vintage Lane (tel. 09/372-6748; www.waiheke.co.nz/tewhaugarden), which features a stunning combination of art and native bush. Even better is Connells Bay Centre for Sculpture [STSTST], Cowes Bay Road (tel. 09/372-8957; www.connellsbay.co.nz), where you'll find a superb display of work by top New Zealand sculptors set into the magnificent landscape. Admission is NZ$30 (US$21/£11) adults and NZ$15 (US$11/£5.40) children under 15. There are also around 100 artists living on the island, many with open studios; grab the Waiheke Island Art Map from the visitor center and take your pick.

A good way to see the mysterious east end of the island is to join the Rural Mail Run for NZ$25 (US$18/£9). It leaves Monday through Friday at 8:30am; for details and bookings, call tel. 09/372-9166. Another excellent way to get a feel for Waiheke is to go with Ananda Tours (tel. 09/372-7530 or 027/233-4565; www.ananda.co.nz). It offers art studio, wine, and eco walking tours with knowledgeable guides; prices begin at NZ$105 (US$75/£38) per person. Speaking of walking, pick up the excellent Waiheke Island Walkways brochure from the visitor center. It outlines and maps out eight wonderful island walks, which have been upgraded.

Another fabulous way to see the island is to Drive The Loop, a 1-day self-drive tour that starts and finishes at Waiheke Auto Rentals on Matiatia Wharf. The company provides the rental vehicle and loop tour package, which includes maps with all the most interesting people and places highlighted. It takes 4 to 8 hours (65km/40 miles), depending on how often you stop, and costs NZ$120 to NZ$160 (US$85-US$114/£43-£58), depending on the vehicle category. For information, call tel. 09/372-8998, or fax 09/372-9822.

Visiting Vineyards

To the surprise of many, more than 40 vineyards operate on Waiheke Island, where the Mediterranean-style climate is perfect for growing grapes (and olives). Some of the country's best red wines come from the island. Before you start exploring, pick up the free Waiheke Winegrowers' Map, or check out the Waiheke Winegrowers' Association website, www.waihekewine.co.nz. Plan your visits around eating time, because several growers have excellent restaurants.

The leader among the Waiheke vineyards is undoubtedly Stonyridge, 80 Onetangi Rd. (tel. 09/372-8822; www.stonyridge.com). In 1987, Stonyridge produced the first Larose vintage, which was immediately judged one of the world's top red wines by the London World Guide to Cabernet. It has the dreamiest vineyard, with an incredibly picturesque view from its restaurant, which is one of the nicest places on the island to dine (lunch only). Winery tours begin at 11:30am on Saturday and Sunday; admission is NZ$10 (US$7/£3.60) per person.

Mudbrick Vineyard & Restaurant, 126 Church Bay Rd., Oneroa (tel. 09/372-9050; www.mudbrick.co.nz), is another magical setting for a meal. Gold Water Wine, 18 Causeway Rd., Ostend (tel. 09/372-7493; www.goldwaterwine.com), is a small premium winegrower producing top cabernet/merlots -- although it's seldom open. It offers tasting sessions and tours by arrangement. Peninsula Estate, 52A Korora Rd., Oneroa (tel. 09/372-7866; www.peninsulaestate.com), is open for tasting and sales November through December weekends from 11am to 4pm, and January to Easter Wednesday to Sunday also 11am to 4pm. It's acclaimed for its cabernet/merlot.

Kennedy Point Vineyard, 44 Donald Bruce Rd., Kennedy Point (tel. 09/372-5600; www.kennedypointvineyard.com), has a winery and tasting room in a beautiful setting. Te Whau Vineyard & Restaurant, 218 Te Whau Dr. (tel. 09/372-7191; www.tewhau.com), has a smart little cafe that serves lunch. Tours are NZ$10 (US$7.10/£3.60) per person. With more than 500 cellared wines, Te Whau houses the most diverse collection of New Zealand wine in the world. Passage Rock Wines & Restaurant, 438 Orapiu Rd. (tel. 09/372-7257; www.passagerockwines.co.nz), is in a tranquil bay. Its award-winning wines have grabbed international attention -- as have its wood-fired pizzas.

If you want to take a wine tour, contact Jaguar Wine Tours (tel. 09/372-7312; www.waihekejaguartours.co.nz). Fullers also offers vineyard tours.

Sailing Away

Bernard Rhodes, owner/skipper of Flying Carpet (tel. 09/372-5621; www.flyingcarpet.co.nz), is a man with a thousand sea stories, and a day out on his 11.5m (38-ft.) yacht -- which he built himself from recycled timber -- will leave a lasting impression. His son Andrew is the qualified onboard chef. A day sail with three-course lunch starts at NZ$125 (US$89/£45) per person; a shorter dinner cruise with a five-course degustation menu starts at NZ$95 (US$67/£34) per person.

The Good Oil

Waiheke is fast becoming known for its premium extra-virgin olive oils. Around 20,000 trees grow on the island; harvest season is April through May or June. There is no better place to start sampling than Rangihoua Estate, 1 Gordons Rd. (tel. 09/372-6214; www.rangihoua.co.nz). The Frantoio Room is open Monday through Saturday during January and February; otherwise, tours and tastings are held every Saturday from 11am until 4pm, or by appointment.