Say whaaat? Thanks to the influence of Chinese and Japanese immigrants on Peruvian culture and cuisine, Peru is known not just for its native dishes, like the sudado de pescado (poached red snapper), but for Chinese-Peruvian (“chifa”) and Japanese-Peruvian (nikkei) creations. Chef Jose Andres capitalizes on all of those tastes here, and Washingtonians are loving it. For dim sum lovers, there are dumplings of shrimp, pork, jicama, and peanut, with a runny egg broken over them. Ceviches use Japanese sashimi and nigiri. A tomato stew tops rice noodles. A few of the dishes, that sudado de pescado, for example, require a tableside presentation that’s quite dramatic and aromatic. The one drawback to China Chilcano is its seating, which is uncushioned and uncomfortable (though the room itself is quite handsome and brilliantly colorful).
- Elise Hartman Ford