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In this intimate, somewhat casual dining room, the best servers in the city will make you feel fully at home and encourage you to focus on your companions, and the exquisite pleasure of tasting the best cuisine in the capital. Chef/owner Johnny Monis knows exactly what he’s doing, filling dates with mascarpone, or a brioche with monkfish liver, or charring octopus with tomato and fig. There is no printed menu. Monis just sends out 12 or more tastes of his divine inspirations, and if you know what’s good for you, you savor it. (Komi will accommodate those with allergies or dietary restrictions; just be sure to call ahead.) This is not a place for loud conversation, nor is it hoity-toity. I wouldn’t even describe it as the domain of foodies, although foodies certainly flock here. A dinner at Komi is really about slowing down for a short while, focusing, and being renewed. FYI: If you can’t book a table at Komi, try Monis’s Little Serow, a stools-only, walk-ins only, family-style restaurant in the basement of the building next door to Komi. The Northern Thai menu is prix fixe, $45 for seven courses, and authentic. You’ll know you’ve found Little Serow when you see the line.