In One Day

Note: For this itinerary, it's best if you book tickets in advance for a Capitol tour and for a moonlight tour, and reserve a table in advance at Johnny's Half Shell.

The first two stops on this tour are the Capitol, which is open to visitors Monday through Saturday, and the Supreme Court, open only on weekdays. If you're here on a weekend, plan accordingly. If you're here on a weekday, let's be honest: When both the Supreme Court and Congress are in session, and you're hoping to attend both, and to tour the Capitol, you can expect those activities alone to take up the better part of a day. So I'm offering you some choices: Visit the Supreme Court or the Capitol, and continue with the itinerary as laid out; or hope for the best, attempt to take in both the Court and the Capitol, and work in other stops on this itinerary as you're able. If you're traveling with children age 12 and under, visit the Capitol and, if you want, do a tour of the Supreme Court, but do not try to attend a Supreme Court argument with young children. To improve your chances of attending a Supreme Court argument and touring the Capitol, be prepared to line up early (7:30am in high season) at the Supreme Court and order your tickets way in advance to tour the Capitol on your desired day. Start: Metro on the Blue Line to Capitol South, or on the Red Line to Union Station.

1. The Capitol

The story of the design and construction of the Capitol is a tumultuous one, full of strong personalities and brave compromises -- kind of like the history of the United States, actually. Startling truths abound, beginning with the fact that this important U.S. building was originally designed in 1792 by a man born in the British West Indies and trained as a physician in Scotland. William Thornton, the first architect of the Capitol, explained himself, "I lamented not having studied architecture and resolved to attempt that grand undertaking and study at the same time." Seventy years and three architects later, the Capitol's most notable feature was completed: a 287-foot-high dome, made of two enormous cast-iron shells, one inside the other, with all the exterior trim, cornices, and columns painted to look like marble. Tilt your head all the way back to see the 19-foot statue, Freedom, which was set in place atop the dome in December 1863, at the height of the Civil War -- the same year that Abraham Lincoln issued his Emancipation Proclamation.

2. Supreme Court

You don't have to be aware of the Supreme Court's schedule to know when a controversial case is up -- you'll observe the line of hopeful visitors stretching across the Court's front plaza. You'll spot media types, too. The southeast corner of the plaza is a favorite location for TV correspondents to deliver on-camera reports; with the right angle, the shot captures the newsperson and the crowds of people in endless queues, framed against the backdrop of the Court's stately columned edifice and elaborate pediment inscribed with the words EQUAL JUSTICE UNDER LAW.

3. Library of Congress

As the world's largest library, the Library of Congress commands an inventory of nearly 145 million items. In an enduring effort to share its wealth, the Library mounts special exhibitions to show off items from its collection. One example: An ongoing exhibit titled "Creating the United States" displays an assortment of artifacts that inform our understanding of the birth of our democracy, from an "original Rough Draught" of Thomas Jefferson's much marked-up Declaration of Independence, to early-18th-century hand-colored etchings conveying political satire, to a 1797 manuscript in George Washington's hand, outlining a plan of government for Virginia. The Library of Congress: not just for bibliophiles.

4. Take a Break --  Le Bon Café

Order a sandwich and try to snag a seat at one of the outside tables. Or better yet, get it to go, and proceed to your next destination, where an Elizabethan garden awaits you. tel. 202/547-7200.

5. Folger Shakespeare Library and Garden

If your timing is right (try before noon or after 1pm), you'll have the garden to yourself -- to sit on a bench; munch on a picnic lunch; and relax amid the English ivy, rosemary, and lavender, all plantings true to Shakespeare's day. Positioned throughout the garden are statues of characters from eight of the Bard's plays. Stop inside to see "what's on" in the paneled, Tudor-style Great Hall, and check the calendar for plays being staged in the re-created Elizabethan Theatre. Attend an evening production, if you can; they're always a treat.

Note: If you're running out of time, skip the next stop and head straight to no. 7 -- unless you love flora, in which case, continue on to:

6. U.S. Botanic Garden

At the foot of the Capitol grounds on the Independence Avenue side is this other garden -- well, several gardens and plant collections, in fact -- contained within a large greenhouse. Not much is asked of you here -- you don't have to be a gardener to appreciate the beauty of orchids or the wonder of the "Musa Praying Hands" (it's in the banana family). Be sure to climb all the way up the stairs in the tallest part of the conservatory and look out: You'll have views of the Capitol and the neighborhood that I'll bet even most locals haven't discovered.

7. National Gallery of Art and Sculpture Garden

The National Gallery's special exhibits are always amazing, so if there's one being staged, go, no matter who the artist. For example, head to the East Wing and go straight up to the tower to take a look at the latest show in a series that focuses on developments in art since the 1970s. The tower gets less traffic than other spots in the museum, mostly because not everyone's hip to it. (FYI: The Matisse cutouts that used to be on view here are now found on the concourse level.) From here, you'll want to high-tail it over to the West Wing, to view as much of the grand sculpture galleries, European paintings from the 13th to the 19th century, and modern artworks in the Sculpture Garden, as time allows.

If you're short on time or energy, take a taxi; otherwise walk the half-mile or so to Johnny's Half Shell.

8. Take a Break --  Johnny's Half Shell

Sit on the terrace or head inside to enjoy Johnny's particular conviviality and "Seafood Specialties, Strong Drinks," as the restaurant puts it. Never sampled a soft-shell crab? This is the place to try it, if in season (late spring to early fall). Non-seafood items are also available. Arrive weekdays 4:30 to 7:30pm and you'll be in time for happy hour, or Monday to Saturday 5 to 6:30pm, to enjoy the good-value pretheater menu. From here, it's just a couple of blocks to Union Station, your next destination. tel. 202/737-0400.

9. Union Station

This handsome structure is a major thoroughfare for commuters rushing for Metro and Amtrak trains, so watch out. The ticket kiosks for the various tour operations are at the front of the Main Hall, making them hard to miss; whether you've reserved space in advance (recommended) online, or you're just now purchasing your tickets, you'll need to stop by the booths for information and to obtain the actual tour tickets/boarding passes.

10. Moonlight Tour

Tourmobile and Old Town Trolley offer nighttime tours of the memorials and the Washington Monument. Some consider this the most dramatic way to view the historic sites. After a full day of sightseeing, it is certainly the easiest and most relaxing way to get around. Both operations offer narrated tours, with stops (for 20 min. or so) at the Lincoln, FDR, Vietnam Veterans, and Jefferson memorials. But their specific fares, routes, and schedules differ. (Tourmobile's twilight tour, for instance, is a seasonal operation.) Hop aboard and enjoy the ride.