Food & Drink

Food writers outside the city like to talk about Washington's culinary scene as if it has newly come into its own. They're out of touch. The truth is that the capital has been cultivating an enviable stable of truly excellent restaurants gradually for about the last 10 years -- and by "excellent," I don't necessarily mean fine dining/expensive. For example, old-timer Jaleo specialty is its small plates of authentic Spanish tapas, priced at $5 to $10, while newcomer Tackle Box offers a full dinner of wood-grilled fresh fish and two delicious sides for a flat $13.

It is true that our restaurants keep getting better and better. In its 23rd annual "Best New Restaurants in America" feature, Esquire magazine recognized Brasserie Beck and Oyamel in its list of the top 20 new eateries. As mentioned earlier, Travel + Leisure recently named D.C. "one of the most exciting cities on the East Coast." And our restaurants consistently receive AAA five diamond and James Beard Award Foundation distinctions. The 2008 James Beard Awards recognized Michel Richard Central as the best new restaurant in America.

All of this attention has encouraged several of the world's most esteemed chefs to establish restaurants in the capital, including Wolfgang Puck, whose the Source, is in the Newseum; Eric Ripert and his Westend Bistro, in the Ritz-Carlton Washington, and Alain Ducasse, whose Adour is the St. Regis Hotel Washington's resident restaurant.

Washingtonians are in the catbird's seat, licking their lips. Eating out is a way of life here, whether simply for the pleasure of it, or for business -- the city's movers and shakers meet over breakfast, lunch, and dinner. When Congress passed a ban prohibiting members of Congress and their staffs from accepting gifts of any value, including meals, restaurateurs feared that their clientele would stop going out to eat. But business is flourishing, it turns out, with congressional members and staff paying for themselves, if need be, and with corporate executives, lobbyists, and other professionals taking each other, but not elected politicians, out for a meal.

One other thing to note here: When Congress is in town, that is, not out on recess, restaurants are full and reservations are an absolute must. When Congress is on recess, in August, mid-December to January, and at other times, many restaurants, especially those close to Capitol Hill and in the downtown, are so empty, it's creepy.

We have quite a number of restaurants to choose from: 1,727 delis to showplace dining rooms, according to the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington. An immense variety of cuisines is on hand, representing the international population of the capital, including the diplomatic staffs of 178 foreign embassies and our immigrant communities from Ethiopia and El Salvador, especially, but from scores of other countries, as well. A strong African-American presence means that the District has some delicious soul food eateries and our location in the Mid-Atlantic region near the Chesapeake Bay means that crabs are a favorite item here, served in soft-shell, hard-shell, soup, or cake form.

Currently, the capital is witnessing a variety of culinary trends, with wine bars and chocolate lounges proliferating and vegetarian options on the rise. Exotic drinks, such as fruit-infused martinis, are increasingly a draw at popular restaurants, many of which now include a bar lounge for those who want to unwind with a cocktail before dinner, or sip a nightcap afterward.

A growing concern about the environment is inspiring restaurants to pursue ecologically friendly practices, like the sustainable seafood restaurant Hook, which serves only those varieties of fish that can reproduce at the rate they're being caught; or Poste brasserie, which despite its downtown location, grows and harvests its own herbs, vegetables, and greens on-site for immediate use.

All in all, Washington's eating and drinking culture, already hot, keeps getting hotter.

Ethnic Eating

Locals and visitors both benefit from the capital's multicultural population and the resulting abundance of restaurants serving cuisine from around the world. If you want to taste the most authentic food available in the capital for a particular country, seek out one of the restaurants on the following list. Though hardly comprehensive, the list, at least, names reliable "real deals" for ethnic eats. If you don't see a mention of your favorite cuisine, for instance, Chinese, it's probably because the restaurants best representing that country have fled to the suburbs.

Indian: This turns out to be a controversial category -- everyone seems to have her own favorite Indian restaurant. I consulted the Indian Embassy, which declined to weigh in. So let's go with Washingtonian magazine's selection of Heritage India, which the food critic describes as "Best for diners, including vegetarians, who savor the subtlety and elegance of refined Indian cooking."

Spanish: No controversy here: Jaleo, with its long list of classic tapas, is the hands-down best for casual Spanish fare, while the ornate Taberna del Alabardero is easily the top choice for upscale Spanish dining. (This is where King Juan Carlos and Queen Sophia dine when in Washington.)

Salvadoran: Salvadorans make up the largest immigrant population in the capital, and yet a good Salvadoran restaurant is hard to find. El Tamarindo, in Adams-Morgan, 1785 Florida Ave. NW (tel. 202/328-3660; www.eltamarindodc.com) is your best bet for great pupusas, tamales, and other Salvadoran favorites. Plus, the place is open until 5am Friday and Saturday.

Ethiopian: Washington is said to have more Ethiopian restaurants than any other American city. The preponderance of Ethiopian restaurants in the U Street Corridor has even lent the name "Little Ethiopia" to the area. Etete, 1942 9th St. NW (tel. 202/232-7600; www.eteterestaurant.com), is recommended for its spicy stews and lentil-filled pastries (sambusas), to name just two good examples.

Belgian: How is it that Belgian cuisine has become such a hot commodity in the nation's capital? (There are at least four Belgian restaurants.) I have no idea. But for yummy tastes of lamb sausage, beef carbonade, and Belgian beers, and for a super fun time, try Brasserie Beck.

Mexican: Its owner chef is Spanish and the place is only a couple years old, but Jose Andres's Oyamel is the uncontested place for true regional tastes of Mexico, from ceviche to avocado soup to chipotle-sauced meatballs.

Peruvian: Las Canteras, in Adams-Morgan, is a pretty restaurant serving pleasurable, traditional Peruvian dishes, such as the seco de carne (a slow-cooked beef stew) and causa (a cake of yellowed potatoes layered with corned and shredded chicken).

Lebanese: Our Lebanese Taverna might be considered a national treasure, nearly 2 decades old and still going strong. For the best, most authentic tastes of Lebanon, choose from the mezze dishes: hummus, baba ghanouj, taboulleh, and so on.

Japanese: The city's oldest sushi restaurant is still the best: go to Sushi-Ko, in Glover Park, for superb sushi and sashimi, but also for shrimp in tempura and other non-sushi, Japanese tastes.

Greek: Washington has a few Greek restaurants now, but, as good as they are, I wouldn't call their food "traditional Greek." Zorba's Café, 1612 20th St. NW (tel. 202/387-8555), in downtown D.C., is nothing if not classic Greek, from its bouzouki music to its grilled Greek sausages and ground beef and onion pie. Inexpensive, too.