Side Trips

Southern Exposure: An Excursion to Cape Clear Island

Cape Clear Island, 13km (8 miles) off the mainland, is the southernmost inhabited point in Ireland. It can be bleak, with a craggy coastline and no trees to break the rush of sea wind, but that very barrenness appeals to many for its stark beauty, rough and irregular, but not without solace and grace. In early summer, wildflowers brighten the landscape, and in October, passerine migrants, some on their way from North America and Siberia, fill the air. Seabirds are present in abundance during the nesting season, especially from July to September. At any time, Cape Clear is unforgettable.

The first step (obviously) is getting there. The Naomh Ciarán II offers passenger-only ferry service year-round, seas permitting. In the highest season (July-Aug), the Naomh Ciarán II leaves Baltimore Monday to Saturday at 11am, and 2:15, 5, and 7pm, and Sunday at noon, 2:15, 5, and 7pm; return service from Cape Clear departs Monday to Saturday at 9am and 6pm, and Sunday at 11am, and 1, 4, and 6pm. Service is always subject to the seas and is more limited off season. The passage takes 45 minutes, and a round-trip ticket costs €12 for adults, €6.50 for children, and €28 for families. For inquiries, contact Cape Clear Island Ferry Service (tel. 028/39135 or 086/282-4008). For the same price, there's also the Karycraft (tel. 028/28278), departing Schull daily in June, July, and August at 10:30am, and 2:30 and 4:30pm; and departing Cape Clear at 11:30am, and 3:30 and 5:30pm. In September, service is limited to one crossing daily, departing Schull at 2:30pm and Cape Clear at 5:30pm.

Once you're on Cape Clear, there are a number of things to see, including birds galore, seals, dolphins, the occasional whale, and ancient "marriage stones."

There's also a lot to do apart from hiking and sightseeing. Cléire Lasmuigh, Cape Clear Island Adventure Centre (tel. 028/39198), offers outdoor programs, from snorkeling and sea kayaking to hillwalking and orienteering. Coastal cruises -- for sea angling, scuba diving, or bird-watching -- are the specialty of Ciarán O'Driscoll (tel./fax 028/39153). There's no shopping mall, but local art, crafts, and books can be found in Harpercraft and the Back Room in Cotter's Yard, North Harbour. While you're at it, pick up a copy of Chuck Kruger's Cape Clear Island Magic. There's no better introduction to the wonder of this place.

Modest hostel, B&B, and self-catering accommodations are available by the day, week, or month. The island's An Óige Youth Hostel (tel. 028/39198) at the Cape Clear Adventure Centre is open March through October. Most B&Bs are open year-round. They include Fáilte (contact Eleanór Uí Drisceoil, tel. 028/39153) and Ard na Gaoith (contact Eileen Leonard, tel. 028/39160). For self-catering cottages by the day or week, contact Ciarán O'Driscoll (tel. 028/39153). You can't miss the town's three pubs and two restaurants, which will keep you well fortified. (Also, the fruit scones baked at Cistin Chléire on North Harbour are fabulous.)

Cape Clear has a helpful website at www.oilean-chleire.ie, with further details on the history of the island, things to do, and accommodation.