Evergreen slopes, deep-set rivers and lush valleys, villages of timbered houses, slate or tile roofs -- this can't be Greece. But it is. It's the northwestern corner the Greeks know as Epirus. Plentiful rainfall, the rugged Pindos Mountains, and a generally more temperate climate -- in places, it seems like Alpine country. And in fact it's one of the few regions in Greece where you'll be enjoying your travels away from the sea.
Epirus and its capital city, Ioannina, seem immune to the throngs who crowd the beaches and restaurants, the ferries and ancient sites, of so many parts of Greece these days. It isn't the travel-poster Greece many expect, and it certainly hasn't organized itself around tourism and foreigners.
Although there are plenty of hotels and restaurants, the pace of life in Ioannina and other Western Greece cities, not to mention in the villages, is still governed by local customs. During the off season, for instance, places such as the post office and information offices may be closed all weekend. Museum hours are cut back, as are the hours of gift shops and many restaurants. And except for some staff in the hotels, better restaurants, and visitor information and car-rental offices, few people speak English, although they may speak Italian, French, or German. You may find yourself sharing a hotel with Greek commercial travelers, and it will probably be harder to find your English-language newspaper or fresh-squeezed orange juice. In other words, this area is for those who enjoy traveling in an authentic foreign land. Try it -- you may like it!
A Strategy for Seeing the Region
Visitors to this corner of Greece will come by ship from Italy or Corfu (via Igoumenitsou), by plane from Athens or Thessaloniki, or by car or bus from other parts of Greece. We recommend basing yourself in Ioannina, a city that offers a fine mix of natural attractions, historical associations, and modern amenities. With only 2 or 3 days you can take in the attractions of Ioannina on foot, and you can visit Epirus's other main destination, Metsovo, by bus. But you really should rent a car to see most of the other attractions of Epirus, including Dodona and the cave at Perama. And for the truly adventurous, there are the Zagori villages and at least a glimpse of the Vikos Gorge. So we recommend a minimum of 4 days for Epirus -- 2 days for Ioannina, 1 day for Metsovo, and a half-day each for Dodona and the Perama cave.
