Regions in Brief

Allegany County

Allegany has three state parks (go to www.dnr.maryland.gov for more information), plus the terminus of the C&O Canal, which is quite popular with bikers, hikers, and history buffs. Note that all state parks allow pets on leashes in some areas.

The C&O Canal National Historical Park (tel. 301/722-8226; www.nps.gov/choh) is an ideal place for a trek on the flat, wide canal towpath. Both cyclists and hikers enjoy all or part of the 184-mile route along the Potomac River, all the way from Cumberland to Georgetown, in D.C. Any portion can make a great 1-day biking trip. The canal passes by numerous sites, including Paw Paw Tunnel, Fort Frederick, Harpers Ferry, and Great Falls. The trip from Cumberland is almost all gently downhill. Because flooding can make some of the towpath impassable, check with the park service to see if the route you intend to bike is clear.

Dan's Mountain State Park (tel. 301/722-1480), at 481 acres, is the smallest park in Western Maryland. Located about 9 miles south of Frostburg, the park is for day use only. Kids will enjoy the recycled-tire playground and the Olympic-size pool, with a water slide and views that make you feel as if you're swimming on top of the world. Take a look over Dan's Rock Overlook and see the view from 2,898 feet.

Green Ridge State Forest, Exit 64 off I-68 (tel. 301/478-3124), at 44,000 acres, is home to abundant wildlife and scenic vistas over the Potomac River. Adirondack-style shelters are placed along the 24-mile backpacking trail. Mountain bikers have access to the park's roads, most of the 43 miles of hiking trails, and a separate bike trail and racecourse. At the oak-hickory forest's southern end, you'll find the Paw Paw Tunnel on the C&O Canal. Primitive camping is available at 100 sites ($10 per night). The park's activities include off-road driving, hunting, canoeing, kayaking, and fishing. The shooting range is open Wednesday through Saturday and Monday from 10am to sunset, Sunday from noon to sunset.

Rocky Gap State Park, Exit 50 off I-68 (tel. 301/722-1480), has great trails with views of 243-acre Lake Habeeb, mountain overlooks, and a stout 5-mile trail up Evitts Mountain to the remains of a 1784 homestead. Walk along Rocky Gap Run to see the mile-long gorge and hemlock forest. The lake has three swimming beaches, two boat ramps, and boat, canoe, kayak, and paddleboat rentals. Boats are permitted on the lake 24 hours a day. Fishing licenses are required. The park has 278 campsites, including 10 minicabins ($50 a night) and a family group site for up to 40 people ($225 a night). Camping is popular, so reserve your space in advance.

Suppliers & Guides in Allegany County -- C&O Bicycle, 9 S. Pennsylvania Ave., Hancock (tel. 301/678-6665; www.candobicycle.com), rents and sells bikes in its shop, located between two good trails: the C&O Canal towpath and the 20-mile Western Maryland Rail Trail. C&O also repairs bikes and operates a general store with lodging (reservations are a good idea). Closed Tuesday through Thursday in cold weather.

Allegany Expeditions (tel. 800/819-5170 or 301/722-5170; www.alleganyexpeditions.com) rents canoes, kayaks, and cross-country skis. It offers guided experiences in surrounding parks, including hiking, rock climbing and rappelling, cave exploration, and canoeing. Call to inquire about cross-country ski packages in New Germany State Park as well as fly-fishing and bass-fishing expeditions. The company has also developed Upper Narrows Climbing Park.

Garrett County

Garrett County is covered by state forests and parks. It's the home of swimming holes, the state's highest waterfall, and an intriguing preserve owned by the Nature Conservancy. To find a park that best suits your interests, visit www.dnr.maryland.gov.

Swallow Falls State Park (tel. 301/334-9180) has 10 miles of hiking trails. Follow the Youghiogheny River for views of Swallow Falls and the even more spectacular Muddy Falls, which drop 63 feet. The walk through one of Maryland's last virgin forests of giant pines and hemlocks shouldn't be missed -- you won't forget its quiet beauty. The park has the area's largest camping facility, with 65 improved sites and modern bathhouses with showers and laundry tubs. Camping costs $25 to $50 per night; reservations can be made up to a year in advance. Pets are permitted on leashes in designated camping areas and in day-use areas in the off season. A 5.5-mile trail good for hiking or cross-country skiing connects the park with Herrington Manor.

Herrington Manor State Park (tel. 301/334-9180) draws cross-country skiers to its 10 miles of groomed trails. It offers ski and snowshoe rental ($15 a day), sled rental ($6 a day), 20 furnished cabins, and stone warming rooms where skiers can grab a snack and hot cocoa. Trails and rental facilities are open from 8:30am to 4pm during good skiing conditions. In summer, the park's trails draw hikers and bikers. The 53-acre Herrington Lake has guarded beaches and canoes, rowboats, and paddleboats to rent from May through September. Bring your tennis racquet or volleyball: Courts are waiting. Campers can reserve one of 20 furnished log cabins year-round; book as much as a year ahead. Rentals range from $20 to $120 for a full-service cabin.

Savage River State Forest (tel. 301/895-5759), which surrounds New Germany and Big Run, is the largest of Maryland's state forests, at more than 54,000 acres. It features miles of rugged hiking trails. The longest, Big Savage, follows a 17-mile path along the ridge of Big Savage Mountain at an average elevation of 2,500 feet. Also popular is Monroe Run, which traverses the forest between New Germany and Big Run. Mountain bikers may use all trails except Big Savage and Monroe Run. Snowmobiles and off-road vehicles have their own trails; permits are required and available at park headquarters. Stop by for trail maps, including one delineating 10 miles of cross-country-ski trails. Savage River Lake was the site of the 1989 world white-water championships; only nonpowered watercraft are allowed on the water. Fifty-two primitive campsites are spread throughout the forest -- you may not see another camper while you're here. Backwoods camping is also permitted, but fires are not allowed at some sites. Camping is available year-round at $10 per night, with sites offered on a first-come, first-served basis with self-registration. Pets are permitted on leashes. If you don't have the time or the inclination to stay for a while, at least drive through the park, as many motorcyclists do on weekends. The roads are public, and the feeling of escape that comes from all those acres of trees is worth the ride.

New Germany State Park (tel. 301/895-5453) has 12 miles of trails, well marked for cross-country skiing. It also offers equipment rental, cabins, and large stone warming rooms where skiers can stop and get a snack. Trails and rental facilities are open from 8am to 4pm during good skiing conditions. The park has 37 improved campsites with clean bathhouses and hot showers. All sites are large, private, and located in a wooded glen; the cost is $15 per night. These can be rented up to a year in advance for visits between April and Labor Day; September through October, the sites are offered on a first-come, first-served basis. Available year-round are 11 furnished cabins -- with electricity, fireplaces, and room for two to eight persons -- for $70 to $100 a night, with a 2-night minimum required. You can reserve the cabins up to a year in advance. The park also has a 13-acre lake popular with swimmers and rowboaters, with boat rentals available. The day-use fee is $2 on weekends and holidays, $3 during ski season. Note that pets are not permitted at this park.

Big Run State Park (tel. 301/895-5453), just down the road, offers fishing and hiking along Monroe Run and Big Run. You can launch your boat at Savage River Reservoir. The 300-acre park has 30 rustic campsites with chemical toilets and running water. Some are in wooded areas along Monroe Run and Big Run; others on the shore of the Savage River Reservoir. Sites at Big Run are open year-round and cost $15 per night, available on a first-come, first-served basis. Pets are permitted on leashes.

Potomac-Garrett State Forest (tel. 301/334-2038) is spread over 19,000 acres in two separate tracts in the lower westernmost corner of the county. With plenty of streams, beaver ponds, and cranberry bogs, it offers beautiful scenery, including the highest point in any Maryland state forest: Backbone Mountain, in Garrett State Forest near Route 135 and Walnut Bottom Road. There are 8 miles of mountain-biking trails, as well as trails for snowmobiles, dirt bikes, and ATVs. Off-road-vehicle permits are required and can be obtained at each park's headquarters. Hikers can choose from 30 miles of trails, many easy enough for day hike and many with mountain views that can only be seen off the road. For hunters, the park offers a 3-D bow range, open April through September. Hunting and trapping are permitted during the appropriate seasons; contact the park office for details. The fishing here is some of the best in Western Maryland, with 21 miles of first-class trout streams, including 9 miles of the North Branch of the Potomac River. Here's the place to catch the Maryland Grand Slam: brook, brown, 'bo, and cutthroat trout. Potomac-Garrett also offers five primitive camping areas, open year-round. Getting to them may take some effort, however: The sites are beautiful and generously spaced, and a few have three-sided wooden shelters, but the roads to the sites are not well maintained. The cost is $10 for regular sites, $15 for a site with a shelter. Pets are permitted off-leash if they're under control.

Jennings Randolph Lake (tel. 304/355-2346), covers 952 acres and has 13 miles of shoreline. It straddles the Maryland-West Virginia line. On the Maryland side, there's a boat ramp at Mt. Zion Road via Route 135 and a scenic overlook at Walnut Bottom Road. The lake is open for boating, fishing, and water-skiing in summer. Hiking trails on the Maryland side start at one of the overlooks. White-water rafting is available in spring. For the dam release schedule, see www.nab.usace.army.mil/recreation/jenran.htm. Pets on leashes are permitted in some areas.

Broadford Lake, near Oakland (tel. 301/334-9222), is open from March 31 to early November during daylight hours. The 140-acre park features a guarded beach as well as a boat launch and rentals. Electric boat motors only are permitted. There are picnic pavilions, playgrounds, and ball fields. Pets on leashes are permitted in some areas. Admission is $3 to $4 per car, $1.50 to walk in.

Cranesville Swamp Preserve (tel. 301/897-8570; www.nature.org) is a vestige of the last ice age. Operated by the Nature Conservancy, it's a 1,600-acre peatland bog, home to sedges, cranberry, and sphagnum moss as well as tamarack trees -- a species usually not found south of Alaska. Visitors can cross the bog on a 1,500-foot boardwalk or take one of four trails to see the unusual plants, including carnivorous ones. The entrance is in West Virginia, however, so it's a bit tricky to find. To get here, head south on U.S. Route 219; turn right on Mayhew Inn Road, left on Bray School Road, right on Oakland Sang Run Road, left on Swallow Falls Road, and right on Cranesville Road at the fork. Turn left on Lake Ford Road, right at the next fork. It's 1/5 mile on the right. The preserve is open from dawn to dusk year-round. Admission is free. Pets are not allowed.

The Wild Rivers of Garrett County -- The "three sisters" area -- the Youghiogheny, Casselman, and North Branch Potomac rivers -- has become so popular that it's been featured on national fly-fishing shows. The Casselman is a fertile catch-and-release river; anglers here have been known to catch 40 fish a day. The Youghiogheny supports a strong population of brown and rainbow trout, but be aware that dam releases cause substantial increases in the water level below the Deep Creek Lake power plant. Call tel. 315/413-2823 or visit www.deepcreekhydro.com for a dam-release schedule. For a basic calendar and map, go to www.dnr.maryland.gov.

Garrett County offers myriad opportunities for white-water rafting, kayaking, and canoeing. The Youghiogheny, the North Branch Potomac, and the Savage are the area's best-known runs. Although they can be challenging all year, they're at their fiercest in the spring after snowmelt. In 1976, the Youghiogheny River between Millers Run and Friendsville became Maryland's first officially designated Wild and Scenic River. This portion, known as the Upper Yough, contains approximately 20 class IV and V rapids. Fortunately for the inexperienced paddler, outfitters have sprung up all over the area to take people down this exciting river. If you'd prefer a little less excitement, the Middle Yough offers class I and II rapids, and the Lower Yough is a class III run. There are also several rivers just across the border in West Virginia -- the Cheat, Gauley, Big Sandy, and Russell Fork -- that are rated class IV+.

Kayakers hoping to avoid raft traffic would do well to visit the North Branch Potomac and Savage rivers (both class III/IV); both, however, can only be run after heavy rains or snowmelt. For open canoeing, the Casselman River (class II) to the west is good in winter and spring.

Most outfitters run raft trips on several or all of these rivers; see below for options.

Suppliers & Guides in Garrett County -- Guided rafting trips cost $100 to $135 per person for an (expert) Upper Yough trip. Middle Yough (novice) trips cost $21 to $32; Lower Yough (intermediate) trips are $39 to $115 depending on the level of service. Family float trips cost $20 to $30. Note: Remember to tip your guide -- $3 to $5 per person is appropriate.

Precision Rafting, in Friendsville (tel. 800/477-3723 or 302/746-5290; www.precisionrafting.com), offers raft trips down all of the rivers, as well as paddling lessons. Friendsville is at the intersection of I-68, Maryland Route 42, and the Youghiogheny River; from Deep Creek Lake, take U.S. Route 219 north to Maryland Route 42 into town.

Several outfitters based in nearby Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania, offer similar trips. Try Mountain Streams & Trails (tel. 800/RAFT-NOW; www.mtstreams.com) or Laurel Highlands River Tours (tel. 800/4-RAFTIN; www.laurelhighlands.com). To get to Ohiopyle from Deep Creek Lake, take U.S. Route 219 north to U.S. Route 40 west (just past the intersection with I-68). Go into Pennsylvania and turn right onto State Route 381 (north), which will take you to Ohiopyle. It's about an hour from Deep Creek Lake.

Allegany Expeditions (tel. 800/819-5170 or 301/722-5170; www.alleganyexpeditions.com) offers equipment rentals and various guided excursions. See "Suppliers & Guides in Allegany County," above, for details.

Perhaps unique to Garrett County is its Adventuresports Institute, 687 Mosser Rd., McHenry (tel. 301/387-3330; www.adventuresportsi.org). This division of Garrett College offers an associate's degree in adventure sports, but its classes are open to nonmatriculated students. So if you want to learn how to paddle white water rather than just ride along in a raft, enroll in a 4-day kayaking class. The institute also rents equipment and teaches classes in mountaineering, rock climbing, and ice climbing. For a list of course offerings and prices, call or visit the website.

For tackle and bait, stop by Bill's Outdoor Center, 20768 Garrett Hwy. (U.S. Rte. 219), McHenry (tel. 301/387-FISH), or Deep Creek Outfitters, 32 Outfitters Way, on the lake in McHenry (tel. 301/387-2200).

High Mountain Sports, 21327 Garrett Hwy., Oakland (tel. 301/387-4199), sells, rents, and services bicycles. It also offers water-ski and kayak lessons and tours, and mountain-bike tours from this location. At its location next to Wisp Resort, 8527 Sang Run Rd., McHenry (tel. 301/387-2113), it rents skis, snowshoes, and snowboards.

Snowshoes can be rented at Herrington Manor State Park (tel. 301/334-9180) and Deep Creek State Park (tel. 301/387-5563), for $15 for a full day.