In the early days of 20th-century tourism to Sicily, the western part of the island was easily dismissed. On our first visit a long time ago, we were even discouraged from going there by a tourist official in Palermo. "What is there? A few Greek ruins and maybe some Mafia boys running about? Stay in Palermo, where we will wine and dine you."
Even today, most foreign visitors land in the east. But we have come to regard the western coast as one of our favorite areas for discovery. Much of Sicilian history was shaped along these shores, and much is left that is ancient, including the magnificent ruins at Segesta, whose temple has remained virtually intact for 2,500 years.
No hilltop medieval town, not even Taormina, equals Erice. And in spite of unfortunate modern building on its periphery, Trapani still has a historic core with a jumbled maze of narrow streets. Finally, Marsala, to the south, is known as the center for the making of world-famous dessert wines.
