The White Mountains are northern New England's outdoor-recreation capital. This cluster of ancient mountains is a sprawling, rugged playground that attracts kayakers, mountaineers, rock climbers, skiers, mountain bikers, birdwatchers, and especially hikers.
The White Mountain National Forest encompasses 773,000 acres of rocky, forested terrain, over 100 waterfalls, dozens of backcountry lakes, and miles of clear brooks and cascading streams. An elaborate network of 1,200 miles of hiking trails dates to the 19th century, when city folk took to the mountains to build character (and trails) and experience nature. Trails ranging from easy to demanding lace the hillside forests, run along valley rivers, and traverse barren ridgelines where weather can change quickly and dramatically.
The center of the White Mountains, in spirit if not in geography, is its highest point: 6,288-foot Mount Washington, an ominous, brooding peak that's often cloud-capped and mantled with snow both early and late in the season. This blustery peak is accessible by cog railroad, car, and foot, making it one of the more popular destinations in the region. You won't find utter wilderness here, but you will find abundant natural drama.
Flanking this peak is the brawny Presidential Range of the White Mountains, a series of wind-blasted granite peaks named after U.S. presidents and offering spectacular views. Surrounding these, many other rocky ridges lure hikers looking for challenges and a place to experience nature at its most elemental.
If your idea of fun doesn't involve steep cliffs or icy dips in mountain streams, you can still enjoy the mountain scenery via spectacular drives. Route 302 carries travelers through Crawford Notch to the pleasant towns of Bethlehem and Littleton. Route 16 travels from southern New Hampshire through congested North Conway before twisting up dramatic Pinkham Notch at the base of Mount Washington. Wide and fast Route 2 skirts the northern edge of the mountains, with wonderful views en route to the town of Jefferson. I-93 may be the most scenic interstate in northern New England, passing through spectacular Franconia Notch as it narrows to two lanes in deference to its natural surroundings (and local political will). The most scenic drive, though, is the Kancamagus Highway, which links Conway with Lincoln and provides frequent roadside pull-offs to admire cascades, picnic along rivers, and enjoy sweeping mountain views.
North Conway is the region's motel capital, with hundreds of rooms -- many quite charmless, but usually reasonable. The Loon Mountain and Waterville Valley areas possess a sort of planned condo-village graciousness that delights some and gives others the creeps. Jackson, Franconia Notch, Crawford Notch, and the Bethlehem-Littleton area are the best places to find old-fashioned hotels and inns.
