Riverton -- If you plan to stay overnight in Riverton, your best bet is the Holiday Inn (tel. 800/HOLIDAY or 307/856-8100). Located at 900 E. Sunset, it has 122 rooms that rent for $89 to $119 double. Or you could head 24 miles farther west on Wyo. 789 to Lander .
Lander -- As far as lodging and grub go, there are quite a few options in Lander, from pizzerias and roadside motels to supper clubs and historic B&Bs. The Pronghorn Rodeway Inn, 150 E. Main St. (tel. 800/424-6423 or 307/332-3940; www.pronghornlodge.com), is a reliable choice, with frontier-style trappings and a riverfront setting. Standard doubles run $89 in the high season, $79 fall through spring. The Lander Llama Company rents The Bunk House, a stylishly rustic cabin (with a kitchenette) on the Popo Agie River, for $100 a night or $500 a week, with a five-guest limit. If you really want to get away from it all, head to Louis Lake Lodge, about 30 miles down the highway and 9 miles down a dirt road from Lander at 1811 Louis Lake Rd. (tel. 888/422-2246 or 307/330-7571; www.louislake.com), where there is no electricity and cell phones don't even work. Cabins are a reasonable $70 to $200 a night, and lodge rooms go for $75 nightly. For dining, try the Gannett Grill, 126 Main St. (tel. 307/332-7009), with a more-interesting-than-it-sounds menu of thick burgers, sandwiches, pizzas, and salads. Next door is Cowfish, 128 Main St. (tel. 307/332-7009), which specializes in beef and seafood, and has an organic garden and a microbrewery on-site.