Warm sun, excellent wine and cuisine, and pleasant rural life make Mendoza a delight for the senses and a great place in which to relax and enjoy life. Wild mountains, charming towns, and serene plazas will linger in your memory long after you've returned home. But what you'll probably remember best are the smiles of the Mendocinos. Deeply connected to the land, residents of this delightful city (capital of the province with the same name) and vast province are relaxed, creative, and so very friendly. They feel lucky to live in the "land of sol y vino." Indeed, against a stunning backdrop provided by the highest mountains in the Western Hemisphere, Mendoza showers its inhabitants and visitors with sunshine and wine.
Capital of the Province of Mendoza, the city of Mendoza is an oasis amid an almost desertlike high plain, is somewhat of a miracle, and a testament to the hard work and determination of local residents. If you consider that only 5% of the entire province is cultivated, and that the area receives around 15 centimeters (6 in.) of rain per year, you'll be grateful for the shade cast by the many giant sycamore trees that line the towns. Thanks to a vast network of aqueducts and dykes, which run through the rural vineyards and even through the heart of Mendoza city, grapes and olives have been harvested to international standards. The most famous grape here is Malbec; it's of French origin, but it has put Argentine wine on the map.
In the past few years, wine exports have jumped 30%, helped significantly by investors and experts from Europe. Tourism is following suit and booming likewise. Fortunately, it is growing from the ground up. Locals continue to live as always, but now they welcome visitors into their lives -- into their homes, their family farms, and their vineyards.
The region affords much to see and do. Start with an orientation day, exploring the town on your own, armed with a good map. Visit the highlights of downtown Mendoza, including the vast San Martín Park. After spending a few days exploring the bodegas (vineyards) close to the city, don't miss a day of adventure in the alta montaña, or high mountains -- rafting, horseback riding or trekking. If you have time, then head out of town and stay in one of the outlying area's enchanting inns. Some of these hotels are close enough to the city center to make them convenient for your entire stay. Blending time in the lovely city of Mendoza with time in the quiet wine towns is ideal.
This picturesque city lies at the heart of the Cuyo, the name of the region that comprises the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan, and San Luis. It was founded in 1561 by Spanish colonialists, and retains an idyllic serenity that has carried over from centuries past.
Los Caminos del Vino refers to the wine roads that wind their way through the most important wine-producing zones of Mendoza. You should spend at least a day exploring Mendoza's old city -- visiting the plazas, and wandering about Parque General San Martín -- before heading for the wine route. Choose your own pace when touring the bodegas (wineries); two or three visits are possible in half a day. Make a reservation for lunch either at one of the many excellent restaurants in the wine country -- or, better yet, a bodega itself. Some have truly outstanding restaurants. Tours are generally free, although you are encouraged to purchase wine at the end, and some close on Sundays. Reservations are generally required -- don't count on being able to just show up at a vineyard. A journey into the magnificent mountains, however, is possible anytime. The best circuit is Alta Montaña, which follows parts of the old Inca trail and Andes railroad through the tall Andes to the border with Chile.
Mendoza also offers a wealth of outdoor activities, ranging from Class III, IV, and V white-water rafting in the Mendoza River to horseback riding, mountain biking, and trekking in the Andes. Tour operators in Mendoza will arrange an itinerary according to your preferences, from part-day outings to multiple-day excursions.
Two-and-a-half hours south of Mendoza is the province's second-largest city, San Rafael. More the size of a large town, it's a laid-back, rural place that has some great outdoor activities nearby, as well as its own share of important bodegas.
Las Leñas is a world-class ski resort in the south of the province -- playground of Porteños escaping the capital for a snowy retreat. Los Penitentes offers decent runs closer to Mendoza. For the bold and the brave, Mount Aconcagua provides an irresistible challenge, its 6,960m (22,829 ft.) towering above all other peaks in the Western Hemisphere. With a good bit of endurance, money, and time on your hands, the mountain can be conquered.
When to Visit -- Mendoza is alive four seasons of the year. In winter (June-Aug), you can combine very quiet wine touring with great skiing at Las Leñas. In spring (Sept-Nov), the whole area is in bloom. Days are warm, and the air is remarkably aromatic. The hot summer months from December through February require a good sun hat and access to a pool. My personal favorite time to visit is the fall (Mar-May), when the vendimia wine harvesting is wrapping up, the alamo and poplar trees glow golden, and the nights are fresh.
