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In downtown Winslow, near that famous corner, you'll find the little Old Trails Museum, 212 Kinsley Ave., at Second Street (tel. 928/289-5861; www.oldtrailsmuseum.org), which is something of a community attic and has exhibits on Route 66 and the Harvey Girls (who once worked in the nearby La Posada hotel). The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 4pm. Admission is free.

Even if you aren't planning on staying the night at the restored La Posada, 303 E. Second St. (tel. 928/289-4366), be sure to stop by just to see this historic railway hotel. Self-guided tours are available for a $3 donation.

On the windswept plains northeast of Winslow, 1 1/4 miles north of I-40 at exit 257, is Homolovi Ruins State Park (tel. 928/289-4106; www.azstateparks.com), which preserves more than 300 Ancestral Puebloan archaeological sites, several of which have been partially excavated. Although these ruins are not nearly as impressive as those at Wupatki or Walnut Canyon, a visit here will give you a better understanding of the interrelationship of the many ancient pueblos of this region.

Continuing north from the state park, you'll find the little-known and little-visited Little Painted Desert, a 660-acre county park. To reach the park and its viewpoint overlooking the painted hills of this stark yet colorful landscape, continue north on Ariz. 87 from Homolovi Ruins State Park for another 12 miles.

While you're in Winslow, be sure to check out the SNOWDRIFT Art Space, 120 W. Second St. (tel. 928/289-8201; www.snowdriftart.com), an art gallery/studio owned by artist Daniel Lutzick, who was one of the people who helped get the historic La Posada hotel up and running again.

Communing with the Spirits of the Past -- A few years ago, I took a friend on a tour of northern Arizona. At the end of our road trip, I asked which was the most memorable of all the places we had visited. Surprisingly, the answer was not Sedona, Monument Valley, or even the Grand Canyon. It was Rock Art Ranch (tel. 928/386-5047 or 928/288-3260), a privately owned historic site southeast of Winslow. Located on part of the old Hashknife Outfit, which was the largest ranch in the country during the late 19th century, Rock Art Ranch is the finest rock-art site in the state. The setting, the narrow little Chevelon Canyon, which is almost invisible until you are right beside it, is absolutely enchanting. Pecked into the canyon's walls are hundreds of Ancestral Puebloan petroglyphs, and because these petroglyphs span more than 8,000 years, this is considered one of the world's most important collections of petroglyphs. Tours (reservations required) are available Monday through Saturday (call to get rate information and directions to the ranch). Also on the ranch are a museum of Ancestral Puebloan artifacts and a bunkhouse that dates from the Hashknife days. If you're interested in petroglyphs, Rock Art Ranch should not be missed.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.