Exploring the Area

Madison

For a small city, Madison has a lot of flair. Credit the presence of 41,000 university students, or perhaps the city's designation as Wisconsin's state capitol, or maybe its location between two scenic lakes. Whatever the reason, Madison boasts inexpensive entertainment, lots of city parks, and streets enlivened by bookstores, cafes, eclectic eateries, and funky boutiques. Madison's most bustling thoroughfare, State Street, and the downtown area, Capitol Square, are great places to shop and dine. And late April through early November, Capitol Square hosts a vibrant, open-air Dane County Farmer's Market (www.dcfm.org) on Saturday and Wednesday mornings, with produce vendors, arts and crafts booths, and street musicians.

Visitor Information

For more information, contact the Greater Madison Convention and Visitors Bureau, 615 E. Washington Ave. (tel. 800/373-6376 or 608/255-2537; www.visitmadison.com).

What to See & Do

Madison's 100-year-old State Capitol (tel. 608/266-0382) dominates the city center, topped by Daniel Chester French's gilded bronze statue Wisconsin. Hour-long tours are offered daily here and at Monona Terrace, just a few blocks away, 1 John Nolen Dr. (tel. 608/261-4000; www.mononaterrace.com). Monona Terrace community and convention center was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright whose presence is richly felt in Madison and nearby Taliesin . Tours examine the building's highlights and Wright's design philosophy. Enjoy superb lake and city views from the building's rooftop garden, a popular stop for lunchtime picnickers.

For more examples of Wright's legacy of Prairie School architecture, visit First Unitarian Society, 900 University Bay Rd. (tel. 608/233-9774), which is open to the public, or drive past these private residences: Airplane House (1908), 120 Ely Place; Dr. Arnold Jackson House (1957), 3515 W. Beltline Hwy.; Lamp House (1899), 22 N. Butler St.; J. C. Pew House (1939), 3650 Lake Mendota Dr.; Louis Sullivan Bradley's House, 106 N. Prospect; and "Jackobs I" House (1937), 441 Toepfer Ave.

Madison enjoys more than its fair share of public green spaces, settled as it is on an isthmus between lakes Mendota and Monona. Of the city's more than 150 public parks, one of the most popular is the free Henry Vilas Park Zoo, 606 S. Randall Ave. (tel. 608/266-4733; www.vilaszoo.org), where locals gather to picnic, feed ducks, and view more than 600 animals. Olbrich Park, on Atwood Avenue, sits on the northeastern shore of Lake Monona, with picnic tables and a swimming beach. Across the street Olbrich Botanical Gardens (tel. 608/246-4550; www.olbrich.org) boasts 14 acres of outdoor flowering plants and a conservatory.

Where to Stay & Dine

Head to the 1857 Romanesque Revival Mansion Hill Inn, 424 N. Pinckney St. (tel. 800/798-9070 or 608/255-3999; www.mansionhillinn.com), for luxurious and historic accommodations. Period antiques, original hardwood floors, marble fireplaces, and wrought-iron balconies assure a memorable romantic getaway. Doubles begin at $145 and include breakfast and afternoon wine service; kids under 13 not permitted. Downtown, the Edgewater, 666 Wisconsin Ave. (tel. 800/922-5512 or 608/256-9071; www.theedgewater.com), on Lake Mendota, boasts beautiful lakeside sunsets and a fine restaurant. Doubles begin at $119, $139 for lakefront rooms. The Hilton Madison Monona Terrace, 9 E. Wilson St. (tel. 608/255-5100; www.hiltonmadison.com), is ideally located in central Madison, within a few blocks of the capitol, the university, and adjacent to Lake Monona and the Monona Terrace Convention Center. Doubles begin at $145 and include continental breakfast.

Madison claims to have more restaurants per capita than any other American city, including a rich array of ethnic eateries. You can't beat the fun atmosphere and great food at Great Dane Pub & Brewing Co., 123 E. Doty St. (tel. 608/284-0000; www.greatdanepub.com), serving up a dozen microbrewed beers alongside sandwiches, burgers, and dinners. Wisconsin comfort food comprises the menu at the Old Fashioned, 23 N. Pinckney St. (tel. 608/310-4545); expect mac-n-cheese, walleye, and burgers in an upscale tavern. The menu at Fitch's Chophouse & Spirits, 5957 McKee Rd., Fitchburg (tel. 608/441-7070; www.fitchschophouse.com), emphasizes premium aged steaks, which you can consume while surrounded by burnished woods and a fireplace.

Spring Green & Taliesin

Frank Lloyd Wright's former home, which he built and perfected over the course of 40 years, Taliesin (Tally-es-in), intersection of Highway 23 and County Highway C (tel. 877/588-7900 or 608/588-7900; www.taliesinpreservation.org), has been called the architect's "autobiography in wood and stone." Taliesin was also the architect's studio and laboratory. Located in south-central Wisconsin (an hour's drive west of Madison), the 600-acre National Historic Landmark is now a studio, farm, and architectural school for 40 undergraduates.

Welsh for "shining brow," Taliesin is built on the crest of a hill facing the Wisconsin River on land Wright's grandfather settled after immigrating from Wales. Wright built each of the grounds' five buildings during consecutive decades of his 50-year career. Visitors can purchase tickets to one of six Taliesin tours: the Hillside Studio Tour (1 hr., $16); the Shuttle/Walking Tour of the grounds (2 hr., $20); the Highlights Tour (2 hr., $50); Wright's House Tour (2 hr., $35-$45); the comprehensive Estate Tour (4 hr., $70-$75); and the Sunset Tour (3 hr., $80). The regular season runs May through October, but tour dates and hours vary widely. Reservations are strongly recommended; children are not permitted on certain tours.

South of town, the multilevel House on the Rock, Highway 23 (tel. 608/935-3639; www.thehouseontherock.com), sits atop a 450-foot rock chimney. Built by Alexander Jordan, the stone house is an architectural curiosity, with massive fireplaces, trees, and pools of running water throughout the building. Views of the surrounding landscape are equally spectacular and easily visible through the house's 3,264 windows.

You can stay at House on the Rock Resort, 400 Springs Dr. (tel. 800/822-7774 or 608/588-7000; www.thehouseontherock.com), just a few miles from its famous namesake. The all-suite resort features private patios and balconies as well as a fine restaurant and 27 holes of championship golf. Doubles begin at $150. The Silver Star Inn, 3852 Limmex Hill Rd. (tel. 608/935-7297; www.silverstarinn.com), is a modern log inn featuring fine art and photography and set on 350 wooded acres. Doubles begin at $95 and include a full breakfast.

For more information, contact the Spring Green Chamber of Commerce, 150 E. Jefferson St., Spring Green (tel. 800/588-2042 or 608/588-2054; www.springgreen.com).

The Wisconsin Dells

The Wisconsin Dells draw thousands of tourists every year with man-made attractions -- indoor waterparks, wax museums, and amusement parks -- in spite of the Dells original attraction as a natural wonder: 15 miles of weathered sandstone cliffs and cool, wooded gullies. Ironically, few visitors to this most popular Wisconsin attraction ever see the Dells themselves.

You can observe the region's natural beauty from April to October on Dells Boat Tours (tel. 608/254-8555; www.dellsboats.com), or aboard World War II amphibious "ducks" at Original Wisconsin Ducks (tel. 608/254-8751; www.wisconsinducktours.com). Both offer 2-hour tours of the sandstone gorges for $20 adults, $10 children. During the warm months you can also explore the gorgeous landscape on horseback with a guide at the Beaver Springs Fishing Park, Riding Stables and Aquarium, 600 Trout Rd., off Highway 13 (tel. 608/254-2707; www.beaverspringsfun.com). An hour's ride costs $23 adults, $8 children under 6 sharing a horse with an adult. Fifty-foot cliffs form the lakeshore of nearby Mirror Lake State Park, Fern Dell Road, off Highway 12 (tel. 608/254-2333; www.mirrorlakewisconsin.com). A popular boating spot, the lake is surrounded by pine and oak woods where visitors can picnic and camp.

If man-made attractions suit your family, head to Noah's Ark Waterpark, 1410 Wisconsin Dells Pkwy. (tel. 608/254-6351; www.noahsarkwaterpark.com), the nation's largest, with 41 water slides, two wave pools, two endless rivers, 4 children's water play areas, minigolf, and 12 restaurants and lounges. A day pass costs $30 adults, $24 children under 47 inches.

The popularity -- and plethora -- of indoor waterparks in the Dells has made the area a year-round family destination. Parks combine water slides, wave pools, and squirting toys with resort-style accommodations (sometimes including golf and spa facilities) under one roof, at an affordable price. Great Wolf Lodge, 1400 Great Wolf Dr. off Highway 12 (tel. 800/559-WOLF; www.greatwolflodge.com), follows a North Woods log cabin theme and offers lots of children's activities. Room rates begin at $269. Kalahari Resort, 1305 Kalahari Dr. off Highway 12 (tel. 877/525-2427; www.kalahariresort.com), also has a day spa on-site. Room rates begin at $129. The Dells' largest waterpark resort is Wilderness Lodge, 511 E. Adams St. (tel. 800/867-9453; www.wildernessresort.com), with over seven football fields' worth of indoor and outdoor water-park fun as well as nearly 450 hotel rooms and condos and an 18-hole golf course and spa. Room rates begin at $99. Note: Rates for all of the above resorts include waterpark entry and double rooms occupied by up to four guests.

Wally's House of Embers, 935 Wisconsin Dells Pkwy., Lake Delton (tel. 608/253-6411; www.houseofembers.com), has been a Dells institution since 1959. The friendly, family-owned restaurant specializes in ribs, but also serves fresh seafood and steaks. The romantic themed rooms are worth reserving for a special night out. Main courses run $19 to $34. For great burgers, check out the family-friendly Monks Bar & Grill, 220 Broadway (tel. 608/254-2955; www.monksbarandgrill.com), a local fixture with a friendly staff. Everything here costs less than $7.

The Dells -- both the town and the geologic wonder -- are 55 miles north of Madison; exits 85, 87, 89, and 92 off I-90/94 will deliver you here. For information, contact the Wisconsin Dells Visitor and Convention Bureau, 701 Superior St., Wisconsin Dells (tel. 800/223-3557; www.wisdells.com).

Door County

Door County's rugged Lake Michigan coast, tiny fishing villages (now converted into tiny resort towns), and laid-back atmosphere draw scores of visitors looking for family and romantic getaways. With Green Bay to the west and Lake Michigan on three sides, Door County is a 75-mile-long strip of cliffs and unsullied beaches with 250 miles of limestone or dune coastline. No matter where you are on the peninsula, you're never more than 10 minutes from a water view.

Routes 57 and 42 circle the peninsula, passing through splendid natural scenery and inviting towns like the bayside villages of Fish Creek, Sister Bay, and Ephraim, each one charmingly different from the next. Tidy dairy farms and fruit orchards with ubiquitous red barns dot the landscape. Contact the Door County Chamber of Commerce, 1015 Green Bay Rd., Sturgeon Bay (tel. 800/527-3529 or 920/743-4456; www.doorcounty.com), for additional information.

Door County is home to several lovely state parks, each with miles of hiking and biking trails, fishing, sailing, camping, and swimming in the summer; beautiful fall leaf-peeping in the fall; and cross-country skiing and snowmobiling in the winter. Peninsula State Park, near Fish Creek (tel. 920/868-3258), has all of that, a picturesque lighthouse, and 18 holes of championship golf. Ninety-foot dunes, jagged cliffs, and surf-carved caves lure visitors to Whitefish Dunes State Park, near Jacksonport (tel. 920/823-2400). Potawatomi State Park, near Sturgeon Bay (tel. 920/746-2890), has a nice observation tower offering sweeping views of Green Bay. State park campgrounds are popular -- be sure to reserve a site early (tel. 888/947-2757). A day pass to any state park costs $10; camping fees run $12 to $17. For online info on Wisconsin's state parks, see www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/land/parks.

Art galleries and crafts boutiques are located throughout Door County. Fish Creek, Egg Harbor, Sister Bay, and Ephraim have the best assortment; Ephraim is home to the finest and most eclectic art galleries.

French and Scandinavian fishermen settled the Door in the 17th century, and the surrounding waters are still a mother lode of walleye, northern pike, lake trout, and salmon. Fish boils are the stuff of ceremonial ritual here: Fresh whitefish, onions, and potatoes are tossed into a boiling cauldron, then finished off when a pint of kerosene is splashed onto the wood fire. This quintessential Door County dinner is available throughout the peninsula, with most restaurants charging about $18 per person, including Door County cherry pie. The White Gull Inn, 4225 Main St., Fish Creek (tel. 920/868-3517), claims to have been boiling fish longer than anyone else on the peninsula. The Square Rigger, 6332 Hwy. 57, Jacksonport (tel. 877/347-4264), serves their fish boil in their dining room rather than from a buffet line.

For an authentic Swedish breakfast of pancakes with lingonberry sauce, everyone heads to Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant, Highway 42, Sister Bay (tel. 920/854-2626); you'll recognize the building from its sod-covered roof (where you might see a grazing goat or two keeping the grass trimmed). Wilson's Restaurant and Ice Cream Parlor, Route 42, Ephraim (tel. 920/854-2041), has been serving sundaes, chocolate sodas, and burgers under its red-and-white awning since 1906.

Door County is known in part for its romantic B&Bs. The Whistling Swan, 4192 Main St., Fish Creek (tel. 888/277-4289 or 920/868-3442; www.whistlingswan.com), was built in mainland Wisconsin in 1887 and moved across the frozen Green Bay 20 years later to serve as an inn. It remains a charming B&B, furnished with antiques. Doubles start at $135 and rates include continental breakfast. Nearby is the elegant White Gull Inn, 4225 Main St. (tel. 888/364-9542 or 920/868-3517; www.whitegullinn.com). Doubles begin at $140 and include a full, hot breakfast. Edgewater Resort, 10040 Water St., Ephraim (tel. 920/854-2734; www.edge-waterresort.com), features spacious accommodations, most with water views and balconies, some with double whirlpool tubs and kitchens. Doubles begin at $110. An inexpensive but comfortable family favorite, the Square Rigger Lodge, 6332 Hwy. 57, Jacksonport (tel. 888/508-8008; www.squareriggerlodge.com), has its own Lake Michigan beach access. Accommodations include motel-style rooms with fridges (doubles begin at $103) and cottages (beginning at $170 per night or $770 per week).