Active Pursuits

Wyoming is among the greatest the great outdoors has to offer, in the United States or anywhere in the world. There are literally millions of acres of public spaces where you can cast for native cutthroat trout or herd cattle, go rock climbing or four-wheeling, raft, or ski. This state, along with Montana, collectively boast a trio of spectacular national parks, four national monuments, one national recreation area, two national historic sites, five national historic trails, 14 national forests, one national grassland, more than 20 million acres administered by the federal Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and 62 state parks. All things considered, there are many lifetimes of outdoor recreation to be experienced in these parts.

Preparing for Your Active Vacation

What to Pack & What to Rent -- Planning for a trip into the great outdoors may conjure images of vacationers loaded down with golf clubs, skis, cameras, tents, canoes, and bikes. If a car or light truck is your mode of transportation, try to keep the heaviest items between the axles and as close to the floor of your vehicle as possible; this helps improve handling. If you have a bike rack on the rear bumper, make sure the bike tires are far from the exhaust pipe; one bike shop owner told us he does a good business replacing exhaust-cooked mountain-bike tires. Those with roof racks will want to measure the total height of their packed vehicles before leaving home. Underground parking garages often have less than 7 feet of clearance.

One alternative to carrying all that stuff is renting it. Many sporting-goods shops in Wyoming rent camping equipment; virtually all ski areas and popular mountain-bike areas offer rentals; and major boating centers such as Jackson Lake and Lake Flaming Gorge rent boats. You'll find many rental sources listed throughout this guide.

In packing for your trip, you'll want to be prepared for all your favorite activities, of course, but you'll also want to be prepared for an unforgiving climate and terrain. Those planning to hike or bike should take more drinking water than they think they'll need -- experts recommend at least 1 gallon of water per person per day on the trail -- as well as high-SPF sunscreen, hats and other protective clothing, and sunglasses with ultraviolet protection. Summer visitors should carry rain gear for the typical afternoon thunderstorms, plus jackets or sweaters for cool evenings. Winter visitors will need not only warm parkas and hats, but also lighter clothing -- the bright sun at midday, even in the mountains, can make it feel like June.

Staying Safe & Healthy in the Outdoors -- The wide-open spaces and rugged landscape that make these states such a beautiful place to explore can also be hazardous to your health, especially if you're not accustomed to the extremes here. The isolation of many of the areas that you'll seek out means there may be no one around to help in an emergency, so you must be prepared, like any good scout. Also, be sure to carry a basic first-aid kit. Most important, check with park offices, park rangers, and other local outdoor specialists about current conditions before heading out.

Outdoor Etiquette --Many of the wonderful outdoor areas you'll explore in Wyoming are quite isolated; although you're probably not the first human being to set foot here, you may feel like you are. Not too long ago, the rule of thumb was to "leave only footprints"; these days, we're trying to not even do that. Being a good outdoor citizen is relatively easy -- it's mostly common sense. Pack out all trash, stay on established trails, be careful not to pollute water, and, in general, do your best to have as little impact on the environment as possible. The best among us go even further, carrying a small trash bag to pick up what others have left behind.

Adventure Travel

There are plenty of opportunities for adventure in Wyoming -- and some terrific outfitters to help you plan and execute your trip. You can take part in a cattle drive; thrill to the excitement of white-water rafting on the Snake or Flathead rivers; scale a mountain in Grand Teton National Park; or head out into some of the most spectacular scenery in the country on foot or on bicycle, or in a four-wheel-drive vehicle. The variety of tours available seems almost endless, but the tour operators can help you find the one for you. In many cases, you can work with an operator to plan your own customized trip -- all it takes is money.

Below are some of the most respected national companies operating in Wyoming. Most specialize in small groups and have trips geared to various levels of ability and physical condition. They also offer trips in a range of price categories, from basic to luxurious, and of varying length. Numerous local outfitters, guides, and adventure travel companies are discussed throughout this guide. For a complete list of outfitters Wyoming, as well as a lot of other useful information and Web links, contact the Wyoming Business Council Travel & Tourism Division, I-25 at College Drive, Cheyenne, WY 82002 (tel. 800/225-5996 or 307/777-7777; www.wyomingtourism.org).

• AdventureBus, 375 S. Main St., #240, Moab, UT 84532 (tel. 888/737-5263 or 909/633-7225; www.adventurebus.com), offers trips on its customized buses with an emphasis on outdoor adventures, including multisport and mountain biking tours in the Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks areas.
• Austin-Lehman Adventures, P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108 (tel. 800/575-1540 or 406/655-4591; www.austinlehman.com), offers guided multiday mountain biking, hiking, and combination tours in the Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks areas.
• Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800 (tel. 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555; www.backroads.com), offers a variety of guided multiday road biking, mountain biking, and hiking tours in the Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton national parks areas.
• Moguls Mountain Travel, 6707 Winchester Circle, Suite 100, Boulder, CO 80301 (tel. 888/604-5848; www.skimoguls.com), provides customized skiing and snowboarding packages at Big Sky, Whitefish Mountain, and Jackson Hole.
• The World Outdoors, 2840 Wilderness Place, Suite D, Boulder, CO 80301 (tel. 800/488-8483 or 303/413-0938; www.theworldoutdoors.com), offers a variety of trips, including multisport adventures that include hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, and rafting in the Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks areas.

Visiting Montana & Wyoming's National Parks

For many people, including me, the best part of a vacation to Wyoming is exploring the state's two national parks: Yellowstone and Grand Teton (www.nps.gov). Unfortunately, these beautiful national treasures have become so popular that they're being overrun by visitors when the federal government is cutting budgets, making it difficult for the parks to cope with their own success.

To get the most out of your national park visit, try to go in the off season. The parks are busiest in summer, when most children are out of school, so try to visit at almost any other time. Fall is usually best. Spring is okay, but it can be windy and there may be snow at higher elevations. Winter can be delightful if you don't mind snow and cold. If you have to travel in summer, be patient. Allow extra time for traffic jams and lines, and try to hike some of the longer and lesser-used trails. Rangers will be able to tell you which trails are best for getting away from the crowds.

If you plan to visit a number of national parks and monuments within the time frame of a year, America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Passes, which cost you $80 (good for 365 days from the date of purchase), will save you money. The passes are good at all properties under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service, as well as fee areas administered by the Bureau of Land Management, National Forest Service, and other federal agencies. The Interagency Annual Passes provide free entrance for the pass holder and all vehicle occupants to National Park Service and other properties that charge vehicle entrance fees; and the pass holder and three additional adults for sites that charge per-person fees. The passes can be purchased at park entrance stations and visitor centers, or online at www.store.usgs.gov/pass.

Your Pass to Free Admission -- Those who enjoy vacationing at national parks, national forests, and other federal lands have a new annual pass, but for most travelers, it will cost more than the old passes that have now been phased out. The America the Beautiful -- National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass, which went on sale in 2007, costs $80 for the general public. It provides free admission for the pass holder (and those in his or her vehicle) to recreation sites that charge vehicle entrance fees on lands administered by the National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Bureau of Land Management, and Bureau of Reclamation. At areas that charge per person fees, the passes are good for the pass holder plus three additional adults. Children under 16 are admitted free.

The pass, which is good for 1 year from the date of purchase, replaces the National Parks Pass, which was limited to only properties administered by the National Park Service, and the Golden Eagle Passport, which provided free entry to all the federal lands covered by the new pass. The new passes are also available for U.S. citizens and permanent residents 62 and older for a lifetime fee of $10 (same as the former Golden Age passports), and are free for U.S. residents and permanent residents with permanent disabilities (also the same as the former Golden Access passports).

Outdoor Activities A to Z

Wyoming offers a surprisingly wide range of outdoor activities, from desert hiking and rafting to fly-fishing and skiing. Among the many online outdoor recreation information sources are the very informative and user-friendly Public Lands Information Center website, www.publiclands.org, and the GORP (Great Outdoor Recreation Page) website, at www.gorp.com.

Much of the fun to be had in the Northern Rockies takes place outdoors. Throughout this guide, you'll find contact information for national and state parks, national forests, and the like. Here are some key statewide and regional resources. The U.S. Forest Service has information about national forests and wilderness areas in Montana, as well as Bridger-Teton National Forest in Wyoming, at the Northern Region Office, Federal Building, 200 E. Broadway, Box 7669, Missoula, MT 59807 (tel. 406/329-3511; www.fs.fed.us/r1). The rest of Wyoming's forests, as well as Thunder Basin National Grassland, are covered by the Rocky Mountain Region Office, P.O. Box 25127, Lakewood, CO 80225 (tel. 303/275-5350; www.fs.fed.us/r2).

The federal Bureau of Land Management also manages millions of acres of recreational lands and can be reached at its Wyoming state office, 5353 Yellowstone Rd., Cheyenne, WY 82009 (tel. 307/775-6256).

In Wyoming, contact Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites, 2301 Central Ave., Cheyenne, WY 82001 (tel. 307/777-6323; http://wyoparks.state.wy.us). For hunting and fishing, contact Wyoming Game and Fish, 5400 Bishop, Cheyenne, WY 82003 (tel. 307/777-4600; http://gf.state.wy.us).

You'll have no trouble finding detailed topographic maps -- essential for wilderness trips -- plus whatever equipment and supplies you need. And despite the well-publicized cuts in budgets and workforces in national parks, recreation areas, and forests, every single ranger I encountered was happy to take time to help visitors plan their backcountry trips. In addition, many sporting-goods shops are staffed by area residents who know local activities and areas well, and are happy to help the would-be adventurer. In almost all cases, if you ask, there will be someone willing and able to help you make the most of your trip.

Backcountry Skiing -- There is nothing as thrilling as skiing deep, untracked powder in completely wild terrain. To enjoy this sport you need a good set of telemark skis, good information about where to go, and expert knowledge of snow conditions and avalanche risks. One of the best places to pursue this sport is Togwotee Pass in Bridger-Teton National Forest in Wyoming. Otherwise, check at local ski shops and ask at the headquarters of national forests and state parks. The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort decided in 1999 to allow skiers to ski beyond the boundaries of areas it grooms and patrols -- as long as they sign waivers. Check with other ski resorts about out-of-bounds forest areas that might be accessible for backcountry adventures.

Biking -- Mountain biking is a fast-growing sport. Some folks take it easy, pedaling their way to wild country on smooth, easy-grade paths; others are looking for a fast ride down on bumpy, steep trails. Bring your own bike or rent from a local bike shop that will likely assist you in finding the best spots to ride. Bicycling on roads is also popular, but there are limitations: While automobile traffic on many roads is light, there isn't much room, because most of the roads have skimpy shoulders -- Yellowstone roads are among the worst. Nor are drivers in this region terribly respectful of bicyclists. So be watchful, research your routes so you can keep to the wider roads, and always wear that helmet.

Boating & Sailing -- Serious sailors are not likely to put down roots at this altitude; even weekend sailors would be wise to look elsewhere for their kind of fun. But if you insist on trying, you'll find a few sails spread on the bigger lakes of these mountains. You can take a pretty big boat on pretty big Jackson Lake, or even Yellowstone Lake if you're careful about the weather. Smaller boats such as Hobie Cats, in some ways, better suit the sudden, swirling winds typical of these mountains.

Powerboating is another matter; if you've got a motor, pack a lunch and head for any of the many lakes that dot Wyoming's landscape. You'll see Wyoming powerboats cruising Boysen Reservoir or the many impoundments on the North Platte. Just make sure to check around locally regarding access if you're uncertain about it. All types of boats are available locally for rent.

Camping -- This state is an ideal place to camp; in fact, at some destinations, such as Yellowstone National Park, it's practically mandatory. Most communities have at least one commercial campground, and campsites are available at all the national parks and national recreation areas, though these campsites are often crowded in summer. Those who can stand being without hot showers for a day or so can often find free or very reasonable campsites just outside the national parks, in national forests, and on Bureau of Land Management lands. Other good bets are found at state parks.

A growing number of state and federal campgrounds allow visitors to reserve sites, although more often than not only in the busy summer months. Throughout Montana and Wyoming there are more than 100 national forest campgrounds and numerous state parks that will also reserve sites. To check on campground reservation possibilities for many National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service, and other federal properties, contact the new Recreation.gov, which combines the old ReserveUSA and National Park Reservation Service into one portal (tel. 800/444-6777 or 518/885-3639; www.recreation.gov), or use the link from the individual park's website. In Wyoming, contact Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites, 2301 Central Ave., Cheyenne, WY 82001 (tel. 307/777-6323; wyoparks.state.wy.us).

Cross-Country Skiing -- If you don't plan to pound down the backcountry powder on telemark skis but you want to get out in the snow, cross-country skiing can be practiced on any relatively flat, open meadow or plain where there's snow on the ground, or along old roads in the region's forests. Scores of guest ranches now groom trails for both track and skate skiing, and almost every ski resort in the region has a trail. If you don't want to pay to ski, Forest Service logging roads are typically used for cross-country trails. Many golf courses are also regularly groomed for track skiing; some are even lighted for night skiing. The best place to cross-country ski in Wyoming is the Jackson Hole area and Grand Teton National Park.

Downhill Skiing -- There are 11 downhill ski areas in Wyoming, scattered amid the towering mountain ranges found predominantly in the western parts of the state. Breathtaking summit vistas are standard fare. Usually operating from late November to mid-April, and with comparatively shorter lift lines and less expensive lift tickets than most other ski areas in the country, Wyoming ski resorts are great values for the ski enthusiast. Don't fret if you're not skiing black-diamond runs; all ski resorts have acres of beginner and intermediate trails, and seasoned instructors provide lessons at extremely affordable prices. More and more often, you'll find telemark skiers honing their skills on packed resort slopes. For the best skiing in Wyoming, the Jackson Hole area wins hands down, with the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Snow King, and Grand Targhee ski hills just a short drive apart.

Dude Ranches -- The dude ranch is the fabled Western experience come to life: daily rides by horseback, cowboy coffee beneath an expansive blue sky, campfire sing-alongs, and homemade food served in rustic lodges. Accommodations are usually in a comfortable cabin or lodge. You need not have any riding experience before your visit; ranch hands are trained to assist even the greenest of greenhorns. For additional information on dude ranches in Wyoming, as well as other Western states, contact the Dude Ranchers' Association, P.O. Box 2307, Cody, WY 82414 (tel. 866/399-2339; www.duderanch.org). The best dude ranches can be found in the Sheridan area and the Wapiti Valley west of Cody in Wyoming.

Are You a Dude or a Guest? --A century ago, it was common courtesy in the West for ranches to feed and lodge travelers who stopped by on their treks across the great empty spaces. Gradually it became acceptable to accept a few dollars from guests, and by the 1920s, a ranch visit was a full-fledged vacation.

When you make your ranch reservations, it's wise to know the difference between a "dude ranch" and a "guest ranch." A dude ranch typically requires a 1-week minimum stay, and they give you the entire package: riding, fishing, trips to the rodeo, and family-style meals. Dude ranchers look down their noses at "guest" ranches, which will take guests staying just 1 night and charge extra for activities such as riding.

Fishing -- Wyoming has long been known for world-class fly-fishing, the streams and creeks teeming with native trout -- rainbow, brook, brown, mackinaw, golden, and cutthroat -- as well as kokanee salmon, yellow perch, largemouth bass, and northern pike. Warm-water species include sauger, channel catfish, and smallmouth bass. For the best places to fish in Wyoming, head for the waters of the North Platte River near Saratoga and the Miracle Mile, or the high lakes of the Wind River Indian Reservation.

Fishing Licenses -- Wyoming requires fishing licenses, which are available from most sporting goods stores, outfitters, or tackle shops. Yellowstone National Park requires an additional fishing permit, and American Indian tribes located in the state have special regulations and may require permits for fishing in their waters.

You'll need a Wyoming state fishing license if you plan to fish that state's waters. An adult nonresident license costs $11 per day and $76 for the season. Youth fees (ages 14-18) are $3 per day and $15 for the season. A $10 Conservation Stamp is also required for all licenses except the 1-day variety. No license is required for kids under 14, as long as they are accompanied by an adult who has a valid fishing license. You'll also have to check creel limits, which vary from year to year and place to place. Information is available from the Wyoming Game and Fish Department (tel. 307/777-4600; gf.state.wy.us).

Golf -- Golfers may be pleasantly surprised at the number of exceptional courses found. Summer's long days make this a perfect place to play a round, especially when you take into consideration that average daily temperatures and humidity are much lower here than at destinations in Florida. Reserve tee times well in advance. Best Wyoming courses: the Jackson Hole Golf and Tennis Club; Teton Pines in Jackson; and The Powder Horn in Sheridan.

Hiking -- Hiking gives you the added bonus of moderate to strenuous cardiovascular exercise while you're seeing the sights. Remember, though, that these are the mountains, and the elevation you gain over the course of the hike is a much better indication of how difficult the hike will be than the actual distance traveled. Be sure to wear comfortable hiking shoes that have been broken in, and if you plan on hiking in prime grizzly country, be sure to carry bear mace and check with rangers for what to do in case you actually see a bear. Best place to take a hike in Wyoming: the Wind River Mountains or Bighorn Mountains.

Mountaineering: Rock & Ice Climbing -- The Northern Rockies provide superb opportunities for climbers to experience the year-round beauty of Montana and Wyoming's mountains, whether you seek a daylong rock climb during the height of summer in Montana's Beartooths or a technical climb up one of the faces of the Tetons. Ice climbing is becoming a hot ticket in the dead of winter, when many of the world's finest climbers congregate in Cody, Wyoming, for unforgettable winter mountaineering. Not for the faint of heart, the sport is highly technical and requires extreme fitness and stamina. Best place to climb in Wyoming: Grand Teton National Park or Wild Iris south of Lander.

Snowboarding -- Forget all those stereotypes you've heard about snowboarders: This sport is a simple combination of speed, air, and style. If you've never done it, realize that you may have a very sore butt during your first few days, although seasoned shredders swear that the learning curve is much shorter than that for skiing. Experienced snowboarders will find Wyoming ski areas to be snowboard-friendly. If you're really into riding, ask around at local ski shops for winter backcountry options or summer snowboarding -- Glacier Park's Logan Pass is a popular Fourth of July hike-'n'-ride destination. Best place in Wyoming: Whitefish Mountain Resort.

Snowmobiling -- With more than 1,300 miles of trails in Wyoming, snowmobilers have a vast winter playground to explore. Though rental shops are plentiful, machines are in high demand, so you're wise to make a reservation well in advance. Though snowmobiling doesn't require an extreme level of physical fitness, you have to be able to adequately handle the snowmobile and be well versed in safety measures because avalanches are common in the areas some of these trails traverse. Best bets for snowmobiling in Wyoming: Yellowstone National Park and the surrounding national forest lands, depending on whether a long-looming ban ever becomes law.

Watersports: Canoeing, Kayaking & Rafting -- Paddlers have a wealth of choices here. In Wyoming you'll find some fine stretches of river on the Snake, the Platte, the Hoback, and Clarks Fork through Sunlight Basin. If you choose white-water rafting, leave the driving to someone else (that is, sign up with an outfitter that will provide an experienced person to pilot your craft), though you may be asked to paddle. The smaller rivers have no dams to regulate flows, which means kayakers seeking fast, scary runs should come during runoff in June, while canoeists wanting to relax and bird-watch can easily handle the upper Snake or Flathead late in the summer. For thrills, try the Snake River.