Xel-Ha: Snorkeling & Swimming
Before you get to Xel-Ha (Shell-hah) nature park, you'll pass the turnoff for Aktun Chen cavern (a bit beyond Akumal). Of the several caverns that I've toured in the Yucatán, this is one of the best -- it has lots of geological features, good lighting, several underground pools, and large chambers, all carefully preserved. The tour takes about an hour and requires a good amount of walking, but the footing is good. You exit not far from where you enter. There is also a zoo with specimens of the local fauna. Some of the critters are allowed to run about freely. In my opinion, the cost of admission is high -- $17 (£9.35) for adults, $9 (£4.95) for children -- but this is true of several attractions on this coast. The cavern is open 9am to 5pm daily. The turnoff is to the right, and the cave is about 4km (2 1/2 miles) from the road.
Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) south of Akumal is Xel-Ha (tel. 998/884-9422 in Cancún, 984/873-3588 in Playa, or 984/875-6000 at the park; www.xelha.com.mx). The centerpiece of Xel-Ha is a large, beautiful lagoon where fresh water and salt water meet. You can swim, float, and snorkel in beautifully clear water surrounded by jungle. A small train takes guests upriver to a drop-off point. There, you can store all your clothes and gear in a locked sack that is taken down to the locker rooms in the main part of the building. The water moves calmly toward the sea, and you can float along with it. Snorkeling here offers a higher comfort level than the open sea -- there are no waves and currents to pull you about, but there are a lot of fish of several species, including rays.
Inside the park, you can rent snorkeling equipment and an underwater camera. Platforms allow nonsnorkelers to view the fish. Another way to view fish is to use the park's snuba gear -- a contraption that allows you to breathe air through 6m (20-ft.) tubes connected to scuba tanks floating on the surface. It frees you of the cumbersome tank while allowing you to stay down without having to hold your breath. Rental costs $45 (£25) for approximately an hour. Like snuba but more involved is sea-trek, a device consisting of an elaborate plastic helmet with air hoses. It allows you to walk around on the bottom breathing normally and perhaps participate in feeding the park's stingrays.
The park has completely remodeled and enlarged the dolphin area. This has improved the experience of swimming with these intelligent, powerful creatures. A 1-hour swim costs $115 (£63) plus park admission. You can also participate in a program that includes transportation from most hotels in the Riviera Maya and takes you to the dolphin area. It includes locker and equipment, too, all for $139 (£76). Make reservations (tel. 998/887-6840) at least 24 hours in advance.
Other attractions include a plant nursery, an apiary for the local, stingerless Maya bees, and a lovely path through the tropical forest bordering the lagoon. Xel-Ha is open daily from 8:30am to 5pm. Parking is free. Admission is $33 (£18) adults, and $23 (£13) children ages 5 to 11; children younger than 5 enter free. Admission includes use of inner tubes, life vest, and shuttle train to the river, and the use of changing rooms and showers. (Though not listed on the website, the park often has discount admission during the weekend.) An all-inclusive option includes snorkeling equipment rental, locker rental, towels, food, and beverages. Adults can visit all week long for $59 (£32), and children visit for $41 (£23). These prices are not discounted on the weekend. The park has five restaurants, two ice-cream shops, and a store. It accepts American Express, MasterCard, and Visa, and it has an ATM.
Signs clearly mark the turnoff to Xel-Ha. Xel-Ha is close to the ruins of Tulum. A popular day tour from Cancún or Playa combines the two. If you're traveling on your own, the best time to enjoy Xel-Ha without the crowds is during the weekend from 9am to 2pm.
About 2km (1 mile) south of Xel-Ha are the Hidden Worlds Cenotes (tel. 984/877-8535; www.hiddenworlds.com.mx), which offer an excellent opportunity to snorkel or dive in a couple of nearby caverns. The caverns are part of a vast network that makes up a single underground river system. The water is crystalline (and cold) and the rock formations impressive. These caverns were filmed for the IMAX production Journey into Amazing Caves. The people running the show are resourceful. The snorkel tour costs $40 (£22) and takes you to two different caverns (a half tour costs $25/£14). The main form of transportation is "jungle mobile," with a guide who throws in tidbits of information and lore about the jungle plant life that you see. There is some walking involved, so take shoes or sandals. I've toured several caverns, but floating through one gave me an entirely different perspective. For divers, a one-tank dive is $50 (£28), and a two-tank experience is $90 (£50). The owners have also installed a 180m (590-ft.) zip line on the property. I haven't tried it, but it looks fast.
