As any monk you come across will tell you, Labrang Monastery, founded in 1709, is one of the six largest monasteries of the Geluk order, and the largest monastery in Amdo. Unlike most large religious institutions, it escaped desecration during the Cultural Revolution, although the number of monks and nuns was reduced from over 4,000 to the present number of just over 1,000. Despite the fact that he is only 12 years old and still studying, the resident Gunthang Lama ranks behind only the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama. There are colleges for esoteric and exoteric Buddhism, astronomy, mathematics, geography, and medicine. Amdo monks see themselves as the true holders of the faith -- looking down on the Khampas and central Tibetans as soldiers and politicians respectively -- and the monks take pride in the appearance of their monastery. Stunning thangkas adorn the walls, and many beams and finials are inscribed with sacred and protective script.
The most striking building is the Assembly Hall, with its golden roof. This is a recent addition, as the original burned down in 1985. The museum and a display of frozen butter sculptures -- including memorable sculptures of Jiang Zemin and his cronies -- are also worth seeking out. Just to the right of the main entrance is the School of Buddhist Studies, where monks are often keen to practice their English. There is no charge for wandering at will through the various buildings, but to get a better understanding of the monastery, taking one of the two daily English-speaking tours is advised. There's an entry fee of ¥10 to visit the golden Gongtang Pagoda, reached from the south kora, which is thoroughly worthwhile as from the top you'll get fine views over the monastery.
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