The Dongfu Importation Store on Gonghe Lu, between Qiyi Lu and Dongguan Dajie, has a small selection of hard-to-find Western goods including cheese, Pop-Tarts, cereal, and granola bars. Food supplies may also be picked up from the basement level of the Wantong Guowu Guangchang, which features a huge assortment of grocery items and toiletries. One of Qinghai's special exports is caterpillar fungus, called dongchongxiacao, which can be soaked in vodka like a worm in tequila or brewed with soup. You can purchase the fungus at the stores to the right of the gate of Xining Binguan, with prices ranging from ¥50 to ¥1,000 ($6.50-$130/£3.25-£65). Qinghai has a long history of carpet making, an art form that Meiya Rugs (tel. 0971/801-1098; www.meiyarugs.com) is trying to keep alive, with several factories in Xining and another in the pipeline in Yushu. The factories turn out top-quality Tibetan carpets in contemporary designs. You can see the rugs at the Meiya shop at Huzhu Dong Lu 12.