With so many karst hills and caves around the area, Yangshuo has become a little mecca for rock climbing, boasting some 70 climbing circuits. English-speaking Echo at the Karst Cafe, Xianqian Jie 42 (tel. 0773/882-8482), helps organize and lead both half-day trips for ¥150 ($20/£9.75) and 1- to 3-day trips for ¥300 ($39/£20) per person per day. During the summer months, Richard and George (tel. 1350/783-9490 or 1355/766-4617) organize some of the best rafting and kayaking trips on the Li River and on smaller rivers like the Yulong He (Jade Dragon River). Those preferring something more sedate can take courses on tai chi, Chinese cooking, Chinese calligraphy, Chinese medicine, or Mandarin at various outfits in town, including the Chinese Culture and Art Promotion Workshop, Diecui Jie 2 (tel. 0773/881-1121).
Taking a Dip in the Yulong -- For those who'd prefer not to float down the entire length of the Yulong, there is an alternative. Mountain Retreat's public relations manager led me down to the riverbank where boatmen were noisily bragging. For ¥10 ($1.30/65p), one of them agreed to pole us the 100m (328 ft.) or so to the next weir, where we promptly jumped off the raft and spent the rest of the afternoon swimming. Even the boatman stripped down to his skivvies and jumped in with us. So many tourists float down this stretch of water that two rafts even feature an onboard PC and printer, with locals taking digital pictures for a small fee. Mountain Retreat's manager told me that swimming like this was her summertime morning routine, a half-hour dip before returning for breakfast and fresh orange juice. Certainly one of my China highlights!
