Those who complain that Yellowstone's three million annual visitors have compromised the park's wilderness should park their car and tackle a trail: There's plenty of extremely wild country here.
There are short hikes on which you never lose sight of the road, moderate hikes on which you might spend an afternoon penetrating the forest to visit a spot of secluded beauty, and overnight trips on which you can hike and camp for days without running into another visitor.
In fact, there's so much to see and do in Yellowstone that it's easy to get overwhelmed. I've tried to make it easier by describing my favorite day hikes, backcountry experiences, and park activities.
For a more extensive and detailed list of trails than what follows here, pick up Mark Marschall's excellent Yellowstone Trails (Yellowstone Association, $9.95) or the maps provided by the park.
Day Hikes-- The Continental Divide Trail (CDT) links many of these individual hikes together as part of a continuous trail from Mexico to Canada, roughly following the spine of the continent. The Yellowstone Backcountry Office maintains a guide to CDT trails. The Howard Eaton Trail system once went all through the park but was largely supplanted by the Grand Loop Road. Sections of the old trail are still maintained and will be found in trail guides, although some of them closely parallel park roads.
Wherever you go, if you're planning to hike for more than 30 minutes, be sure to carry a supply of water and raingear.