West Yellowstone

At the west entrance of Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone's west entrance is a bastion for tourism, chock-full of accommodations, restaurants, souvenir shops, and outfitters. The personality of the town has changed since the popularity of snowmobile excursions increased winter traffic on Yellowstone's roads; it now offers more, and better, year-round facilities.

Originally called Riverside, and then Yellowstone, the name was officially changed to West Yellowstone in 1920 when Gardiner residents grudgingly complained that people would assume that the town was the park. Regardless of its name, this place is about shopping, not nature, and its biggest attraction is a zoo-like look at regional wildlife in the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center.

Essentials

Getting There -- To drive to West Yellowstone from Bozeman (91 miles), take U.S. Hwy. 191 south to its junction with U.S. Hwy. 287 and head straight into town. From Idaho Falls, take I-15 north about 50 miles to U.S. Hwy. 20, which takes you directly into West Yellowstone, a 53-mile drive.

Visitor Information -- Contact the West Yellowstone Chamber of Commerce, 30 Yellowstone Ave., P.O. Box 458, West Yellowstone, MT 59758 (tel. 406/646-7701; www.westyellowstonechamber.com).

Getting Outside

Yellowstone is obviously the big draw here, but there is plenty of wilderness west of the park in the Targhee and Gallatin national forests. The area around West Yellowstone ranks among the best fishing locales in the country. There are also numerous hiking and kayaking opportunities near the town. Come winter, snowcoach tours and snowmobiling tours are huge draws for West Yellowstone, and Yellowstone rangers come into town and lead snowshoe walks. The town also has a gem of a network of groomed cross-country ski trails that interconnect with trails on public lands. Every major hotel and motel in town offers snowmobile packages that include a room and a sled rental; just be sure to book well in advance.

Where To Stay

Make your reservations early if you want to visit in July or August, or if you're going to spend Christmas or New Year's here. If you're smart, you'll come in the fall, when there are plenty of empty rooms and better rates, and spend your days fishing the Henry's Fork or one of the other great streams in the vicinity. Rates for rooms often reflect the seasonal traffic, and prices fluctuate. Unless noted, all these establishments are open year-round.

You'll find chains like Comfort Inn, 638 Madison Ave. (tel. 406/646-4212; www.comfortinn.com), with summertime doubles for $79 to $199; and Days Inn (tel. 800/548-9551 or 406/646-7656; www.daysinn.com), at 301 Madison Ave., with rates of $119 to $199 for a double. There are three Best Western affiliates, ranging from about $100 to $170 a night for a double during the summer. Call tel. 800/528-1234, or go online to www.bestwestern.com for information and reservations. The One Horse Motel, at 216 N. Dunraven St. (tel. 800/488-2750 or 406/646-7677; www.onehorsemotel.com), is a top-notch independent across the street from City Park, with doubles for $90 to $100 a night. Another good inexpensive option (with more character than the chains, to boot), the 1912 Madison Hotel, 139 Yellowstone Ave. (tel. 800/838-7745 or 406/646-7745; www.madisonhotelmotel.com), has historic rooms for $59 to $89 for a double or $30 for a bunk in a dormitory, and newer motel doubles for $79 to $139. Another option with historic cachet -- and a one-time favorite of broadcasting legend Charles Kuralt -- is the Parade Rest Guest Ranch, 10 miles north of West Yellowstone at 1279 Grayling Rd. (tel. 800/753-5934 or 406/646-7217; www.paraderestranch.com), in a serene setting near Hebgen Lake. Rates are about $190 per day for adults and $110 to $150 for kids, all meals and horseback riding included.

Where To Dine

West Yellowstone is a good place to stop for a quick bite on your way into the park. For coffee and baked goods, visit the espresso bar at the excellent Book Peddler in Canyon Square (tel. 406/646-9358). Morning Glory Coffee, 129 Dunraven St. (tel. 406/646-7061), roasts its own beans on-site and offers a low-key atmosphere for getting going.