Gardiner, MT

At the north entrance to Yellowstone National Park

At the other end of the spectrum from West Yellowstone is Gardiner, which provides the only year-round access to Yellowstone on the north side. Although this tiny town (pop. 1,000) booms and busts with the tourist season, full-time residents manage to lead regular lives that include soccer practice, a day on the river, and a night on the town. For these folks, deer, elk, and bison meandering through the streets are no big deal. If you need additional information, contact the Gardiner Chamber of Commerce, 222 Park St., P.O. Box 81, Gardiner, MT 59030 (tel. 406/848-7971; www.gardinerchamber.com).

Getting Outside

Gardiner is the spot to go for white-water rafting on the Yellowstone River. Several outfitters take guests on half- and full-day trips on routes skirting the park's northern boundary; the best of the bunch is the Yellowstone Raft Company, U.S. Hwy. 89 (tel. 800/858-7781 or 406/848-7777; www.yellowstoneraft.com), with half-day trips for $35 and full days for $78; children get on the boat for $25 half-day or $58 full day. While this is not a snowmobiling hub on the magnitude of West Yellowstone, a few motels here rent snow machines or offer snowcoach tours. And hiking and fishing opportunities are bountiful in every direction from town.

Where to Stay

Dinky, personable, and a bit eccentric, Gardiner has long had ultrafriendly lodging -- thin-walled motels where, if you show up late, they've gone to bed and left a key in the door. These days it also has some newer, chain-affiliated properties, built to accommodate the ever-increasing traffic to the park. As with all the gateway towns, make your reservations early if you're coming during the peak season. The steep off-season decline in traffic results in discounts that can be considerably less expensive than the high-season rates, so be sure to ask.

Inexpensive motels are moving in and filling up during the summer months: the Yellowstone Park Travelodge, 109 Hellroaring Rd. (tel. 406/848-7520), and Super 8, 702 U.S. Hwy. 89 (tel. 800/800-8000 or 406/848-7401; www.super8.com), are open year-round with rates during the high season between $90 and $105 for a double. The Best Western by Mammoth Hot Springs, on U.S. Hwy. 89 (tel. 800/828-9080 or 406/848-7311; www.bestwestern.com), is another option, with doubles for $119 to $129.

Where to Dine

An indication that Gardiner has kept in touch with its mining-town roots is the relative dearth of fancy restaurants -- you'll find mostly steakhouse fare, hearty breakfasts, and travelers' food. A few upscale eateries have come and gone in recent years, but the dish-clattering local color of the parkside coffee shops is hard to beat.