Highlights

This is a wonderland that you can return to again and again, sampling a different pleasure each time. All the sites mentioned here are easily accessible along the loop roads of the park. But the farther you get from the pavement, and the farther from July and August you schedule your visit, the more private your experience will be. Behind the wheel, expect to average about 30 mph during peak season.

The Upper Loop

Mammoth Hot Springs -- Here, 5 miles south of the park's north entrance at Gardiner, Montana, you'll find some of the park's spectacular thermal areas, including unique limestone terraces (the Upper and Lower terraces. The Albright Visitor Center is here, with some interesting exhibits and a bookstore, as well as the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. Your best bet: Follow the interpretive trail through the terraces.

Norris Geyser Basin -- South of Mammoth Hot Springs, you'll find several impressive geysers, geothermal areas of different type and age, as well as two museums. Norris is conveniently close to the west entrance of the park at West Yellowstone. You can follow boardwalks north and south (the south has more activity, but the north takes you across the dramatic Porcelain Basin). Best bet: Tour both boardwalks.

Canyon Village Area -- East of Norris, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River provides some of the park's best views. There are hikes of all lengths and for all abilities here. Canyon Village is one of the most developed sections of the park, with lots of facilities and lodging choices. The canyon might not be as big as the Grand Canyon in Arizona, but it's got its own dynamic beauty. Best bet: Hike one of the rim trails.

Tower-Roosevelt Area -- The closest of the major park areas to the northeast entrance (just west of Cooke City, Montana), this is also one of the most easygoing areas of the park, away from the big crowds and a short drive from the Lamar Valley, dubbed "The Serengeti of North America" for its wildlife. The Roosevelt Lodge Cabins are a great budget lodging if you want to rough it without pitching a tent, and Tower Fall provides a dramatic backdrop for photos. Your best bet: Scope Lamar Valley for wolves and bears; dusk and dawn are optimal times.

The Lower Loop

Old Faithful Area -- Old Faithful remains an enduring symbol of Yellowstone, and you'll find standing-room-only crowds at each eruption. The historic Old Faithful Inn is located here, and the new Old Faithful Snow Lodge is a worthy addition. The most convenient access is from West Yellowstone and the park's west entrance. Boardwalks crisscross the Upper Geyser Basin, offering views of numerous geysers other than Old Faithful. Your best bet: Climb to the top of Observation Point for a lesser-seen view of Old Faithful's classic burst.

Lake Village Area -- On the north shore of Yellowstone Lake you'll find many fishing and boating opportunities, as well as fine dining and lodging choices. The Lake Yellowstone Hotel is one of the two best choices in the park. This area is the closest to Yellowstone's east entrance, which is about 50 miles from Cody, Wyoming. The beautiful Hayden Valley is nearby. You can rent a boat at Bay Bridge to get out and try to catch one of those elusive lake trout. Best bet: Take a sunset tour from Lake Yellowstone Hotel in one of Xanterra Parks & Resorts' classic 1930s touring buses.

Grant Village/West Thumb Areas -- Grant Village is the southernmost of the park's developments, a nondescript collection of modern buildings on the south end of Yellowstone Lake. The West Thumb Geyser Basin and the Grant Village Visitor Center are nearby. West Thumb has a lakeside boardwalk that allows views of geysers that are on both sides of the water's edge. Best bet: Take an afternoon stroll on the boardwalks and gander at some of the jewels of Yellowstone's geothermal wonders.