What's New

Thanks to the far-reaching restoration projects following Hurricane Wilma, much is new in Cancún and the Yucatán. Few signs of the extensive damage caused by the 2005 Category 4 storm remain, even though it hit Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula with winds reaching 242kmph (150 mph) and then stalled over Cancún for nearly 40 hours. It toppled trees, washed away portions of Cancún's famed white beaches, and damaged the majority of the resort's hotels, restaurants, and attractions. Massive relief came quickly, however, and by 2007 most of the city resort had been rebuilt to look even better than before.

Foremost among Cancún's renewal and restoration projects was the recovery of 15km (9 miles) of beaches that experienced varying degrees of erosion as a result of the hurricane. The $23-million beach restoration project, which was funded by the private sector and the federal government, used the same silky white sand that the area is known for, dredging it from the sea floor not far from Cancún's coastline to create miles of artificial beach along the hardest-hit areas. The project, centered primarily on the southernmost stretch of the city's famous hotel strip, from Km 10 through Km 24, was completed on schedule in April 2006.

The majority of damaged hotels took the opportunity to upgrade their facilities and redecorate their rooms. Other enhancements included the replanting of thousands of palm trees, as well as new gardens and sidewalks for the hotel strip's main thoroughfare, Bulevar Kukulcán. Today, the results are remarkable -- most of the beaches have returned, hotels are looking better than ever, and the favorite restaurants, shops, and tours are back in business -- even if some construction crews remain scattered about. The areas to the south, along the Riviera Maya, suffered less damage and were largely restored.

Planning Your Trip to Mexico

As of January 23, 2007, citizens of the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Bermuda are required to present a passport or other accepted document that establishes the bearer's identity and nationality to enter the United States when arriving by air from any part of the Western Hemisphere. This change in travel document requirements is the result of recommendations made by the 9/11 Commission, which the U.S. Congress subsequently passed into law in the Intelligence Reform and Terrorism Prevention Act of 2004. A separate proposed rule addressing land and sea travel will be published at a later date, proposing specific requirements for travelers entering the United States through land and sea border crossings. As early as January 1, 2008, U.S. citizens traveling between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda by land or sea could be required to present a valid U.S. passport or other documents as determined by the U.S. Department of Homeland Security.

International tourists to Mexico can now make tax-free purchases while vacationing, thanks to a law passed by Mexico's Congress. The law grants international visitors a full refund of the tax added to purchases if the buyer adheres to certain criteria. The merchandise must be purchased in Mexico and verified by airport or seaport Customs, and be verified with a receipt presented at time of departure to be worth at least 1,200 Mexican pesos (approximately US$110/£61 at current exchange rates). Reimbursement to tourists will be contingent upon any added costs that a possible return may generate.

Cancún

Highway 307, which services the Riviera Maya, is being expanded. Currently, the highway has two lanes south and two lanes north from downtown Cancún to just south of Playa del Carmen. The expansion project extends this configuration all the way to Tulum.

At Cancún's International Airport, construction on a second runway and third terminal will be completed by mid-2007. These steps should greatly improve logistics at the airport.

In light of Cancún's face-lift, the Mexican government is trying to make the resort more attractive to upscale travelers and soften its reputation as a wild spring break destination. New regulations -- such as prohibiting more than four people sharing a room -- have been put in place to restrict spring break and student tour groups. The majority of damaged hotels took the opportunity to upgrade their facilities and redecorate their rooms, helping to create a new and improved Cancún.

ME (tel. 866/436-3542; www.mebymelia.com) brings to Cancún a new level of minimalist chic by the Spanish Meliá hotel group. This hotel includes trendy bars, sensual artwork, and chill-out music in the public spaces; guest rooms have distinctive contemporary furnishings and modern amenities such as plasma TVs. The stylish Yhi Spa overlooks the ocean and offers every type of facial and body treatment. If you're looking for a hotel in which to see and be seen, ME is that sort of hot spot.

The Ritz-Carlton Cancún (tel. 800/241-3333; www.ritzcarlton.com), reopened on December 15, 2006, after a multimillion-dollar repair and refurbishment project that generated new facilities and expanded services, including a culinary center. The resort also added a tennis program, operated by former pro and ESPN commentator Cliff Drysdale, and upgraded and expanded its fitness center.

Opened in early 2007, the Royal (tel. 800/760-0944; www.realresorts.com.mx) is an over-the-top, all-inclusive, adults-only resort. Luxury abounds, from the stunning infinity pools and gorgeous beach to the gourmet restaurants and sophisticated spa. The elegant marble lobby looks out on one side to the Caribbean, and on the other to the lagoon. The guest suites offer every conceivable amenity, including two-person Jacuzzis. Guests in the top-category suites have access to BMW Mini Coopers. The all-inclusive package includes gourmet meals, premium drinks, and evening entertainment.

Cozumel

The Presidente InterContinental Cozumel (tel. 800/327-0200 in the U.S.; www.intercontinentalcozumel.com) reopened in November 2006 after being closed for more than a year. It was the last hotel on the island to reopen after Hurricane Wilma. InterContinental took advantage of the closure to redesign the property and make considerable improvements, especially to the guest rooms. The smallest rooms were eliminated; the rest were redesigned in a modern vernacular using tropical materials -- an attractive way of expressing cosmopolitanism without forfeiting a sense of place. Comfort has been greatly increased. A large pool, just for adults, is another new addition, as are a putting green and an improved spa. Services, too, have been upgraded, with several new offerings, such as a pillow menu. Before the hurricane, the InterContinental was the most comfortable hotel on the island. Now it is a world-class property and a new member of Leading Hotels of the World.

A recent condo development on the south side of town, El Cantil Luxury Oceanfront Concominiums (tel. 954/323-8491 in the U.S.; www.elcantilcondos.com), offers handsome studio and multibedroom condos for lease by the night or the week. The developer is the owner of Prima Restaurant, an island favorite. He has opened another restaurant atop one of the condo towers and brought a chef from New York to run the show. It's called The Wynston. It had not yet opened when I was last there.

There are a few other new eateries in the town. One that might be particularly convenient is Le Chef (tel. 987/876-3437), a gourmet grocery store and deli where you can get all the fixings for a picnic on the beach. Another is Capicúa (tel. 987/869-8265), a tapas bar with an ample menu of main courses.

A new gallery and store called Inspiración (tel. 987/869-8293) gives the island a much-needed place for the display of quality art and artisanship produced locally in the Yucatán. The island already has stores that sell cheap handicrafts from other parts of Mexico. This store is quite different. It's on Av. 5 between Rosado Salas and Calle 3. Owner Dianne Hartwig displays creations by some of the best-known folk artists in the Yucatán -- objects that are very hard to come by if you don't actually go to the villages where many of these artists live. She also represents some talented contemporary local artists.

Of the island's three cruise-ship piers, one is running normally. Another can now accommodate boats on one side, and there are plans to reconstruct the other side by late 2007. The third pier, Puerta Maya, may be a total loss. When cruise ships outnumber the spaces available at the piers, tender boats will ferry passengers to and from the island.

The Chankanaab Park has reopened along with the dolphin-swim outfit inside the park. The botanical gardens, which were destroyed by the hurricane, are still in disrepair.

The Riviera Maya

Hurricane Wilma is history. It hit the northern part the hardest; you can still see a bit of damage near Puerto Morelos, but you have to look for it.

Playa del Carmen

Playa continues to grow, but the core part of town retains the same hip feel it has had for years.

Acanto Hotel & Suites (tel. 631/882-1986 in the U.S.; www.acantohotels.com) is a lovely little property in a great part of Playa just off La Quinta Avenida. The property was originally made up of small condos, but it makes much better sense as a hotel.

Puerto Morelos & Environs

All the exclusive spa resorts have reopened after recovering from Hurricane Wilma, and they're more luxurious than ever. Ikal del Mar has changed hands and has a new name: The Tides Riviera Maya (tel. 800/578-0281 in the U.S. and Canada; www.tidesrivieramaya.com). Maroma (tel. 866/454-9351 in the U.S.; www.maromahotel.com) has added some new suites that are beyond any suites it had before. Ceiba del Mar (tel. 877/545-6221 in the U.S.; www.ceibadelmar.com) has invested a great deal in its suites and has topped each of the seven buildings with penthouses. It also has added another restaurant.

Mayakobá (tel. 984/206-3000 for reservations; www.mayakoba.com) is a new golf course resort development between Playa and Puerto Morelos that has attracted a stellar lineup of resorts including the Fairmount, Rosewood, and Banyon Tree. All have spas and border a grand golf course designed by Greg Norman. At present, only the Fairmount has been completed. The other resorts will be completed sometime in 2008.

Tulum

The highway to Tulum is under construction, being widened to four lanes. Construction was ongoing south of Paamul to Puerto Aventuras. Expect construction to continue until mid-2008.

Sueños Tulum, a favorite in the Tulum hotel zone, was closed when the owners lost a legal challenge over ownership of the property. Several hotels here have clouded titles, and I suspect a couple more may close.

Mérida

A new U. S. consulate opened recently. It's located at Calle 60 no. 338-K, just north of the Hyatt hotel. The new number is tel. 999/942-5700.

Amate Books (www.amatebooks.com), the English-language bookstore in Oaxaca, has opened a new store in Mérida at the corner of Calle 60 and Calle 51. Like the original store, it offers a wide variety of reading materials, and it's especially strong in publications about Mexican history, architecture, and anthropology. The local phone number is tel. 999/924-2222.

Campeche

A favorite restaurant in Campeche, La Pigua (tel. 981/811-3365; www.lapigua.com.mx), now stays open into the evening to accommodate visitors (locals don't believe in eating seafood at night). It also enlarged the dining room to accommodate more guests, which will make getting a table at this popular restaurant a lot easier.