Travel to the five county towns around Yushu -- Chengduo, Nangqian, Qumalai, Zaduo, and Zhiduo -- no longer requires a permit. Thriving monasteries, remote nature reserves, and bumpy roads await the intrepid. Minibuses leave for the other five county towns from Yushu Guangchang for ¥25 to ¥40 per person, or you should be able to charter a minivan to take you around for ¥300 per day. More extensive tours are best arranged through Tibetan Connections or the Qinghai Mountaineering Association in Xining.