Planning a Trip

Arriving

By Plane -- There are no direct flights to Croatia from the U.S., Canada, or Australia, but Croatia Air, the national airline company, connects Zagreb with several major European hubs as well as with other cities in Croatia. Pleso International Airport (tel. 01/626-52-22) is about 16km (10 miles) south of the city center, and Zagreb is the entry point for most visitors to Croatia. Croatia Air's shuttle bus runs every 30 minutes from 5:30am to 7:30pm from the airport to and from Zagreb's main bus station for 25kn, and the ride takes half an hour (tel. 01/615-79-92). Taxi fares to the city center run between 150kn and 250kn. Tip: Croatia Air's weight limits for luggage differ from those of some other international carriers, so if you are not checking your bags directly through to Zagreb from the U.S. on an airline that is not a member of the Star Alliance, you should call Croatia Air for information on this policy, which is subject to seasonal changes. When returning to the U.S., be aware that Croatia Air does not allow any battery-operated devices in checked luggage, so be sure to remove your alarm clock before you get to the ticket counter.

By Bus -- Croatia Airlines runs frequent shuttle buses between the airport and Zagreb's main bus station (Autobusni Kolodvor) for 25kn. The bus station is a bright, efficient hub with restaurants, shops, a post office, and connections to the city center. A 24-hour garderoba (luggage storage area) charges 1.20kn per hour. ATMs are located near the ticket office, as is an exchange that is open from 6am to 10pm daily. Frequent bus connections link Zagreb and all of Croatia's main cities, which in turn hook up with local lines that run to virtually every village in the country. International connections link Zagreb to an increasing number of European cities.

By Train -- The Zagreb train station (Glavni Kolodvor) facing Trg Kralja Tomislava on the city's Green Horseshoe was renovated in 2004 and the 19th-century exterior is now bubble-gum pink and adorned with angels and other statuary. It is close to bus and tram connections into the city center, which is a 10-minute walk past several hotels. A 24-hour garderoba is available for 10kn per day. A nice restaurant with terrace overlooks the park. There are ATMs, exchange facilities, and an information center (6-10am, 10:30am-6pm, and 6:30-10pm).

Catch the no. 5, 6, or 13 tram across the street in front of the Kralja Tomislav monument to get to Trg Bana Josip Jelicica. Bus routes may change for construction projects, and when that happens, a handwritten sign with changes is taped up at the bus stop.

By Car -- Driving in Zagreb can be stressful. Most streets are marked by small ornamental signs on plaques affixed to building walls at intersections so you can't see the sign until you're past it. Many buildings in Zagreb do not display street numbers at all, or if they do, they can't be read unless you are on top of them. There also is a tangled network of one-way and pedestrian streets, perpetual street construction, and a parking dearth, all of which add up to a driver's nightmare inside the city limits.

Visitor Information

The Zagreb Tourist Information Center at Trg Bana Jelacic 11 (tel. 01/481-40-51; www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr) is open 8:30am to 8pm Monday to Friday; 9am to 5pm Saturday; and 10am to 2pm Sunday and holidays. The information center provides maps, directions, and brochures, and it has a selection of books about Zagreb and Croatia as well as some souvenirs. It sells the Zagreb Card for 90kn, which gives you 72 hours of unlimited city transportation (including the Sljeme cable car), a 50% discount at most museums and galleries, and assorted discounts at participating businesses, including theaters and concert halls. There is a second Tourist Information Center at Trg Nikole Subica Zrinskog 14 (tel. 01/492-16-45).

Zagreb County Tourist Association at Preradoviceva 42 (tel. 01/487-36-65; www.tzzz.hr) is invaluable for information about excursions from Zagreb to such places as Samobor and the Zumberak region. Hours are 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday.

Numerous travel agencies in town can book flights, packages, and hotels, but anyone flying out of Zagreb will eventually talk to Croatia Airlines, whose main office is at Trg Nikole Subica Zrinskog 17 (tel. 01/481-96-33). It is open 8am to 7pm Monday to Friday and 8am to 3pm Saturday.

Tours to sites and cities in Zagreb and all over Croatia can be arranged through various travel agencies. Atlas Travel at Zrinjevac 17 (tel. 01/481-39-33) is Croatia's largest agency and has a huge menu of tours and travel packages. It is also the country's American Express agent. Generalturist at Praska 5 (tel. 01/480-55-55; www.generalturist.com) books flights, excursions, cruises, and other trips.

City Layout

The city of Zagreb is nestled between Mount Medvednica and the Sava River. It is a sprawling metropolis, but almost every attraction of note is within 2.4km (1 1/2 miles) of Trg Bana Jelacic, the city's main square commonly known as Trg Jelacic. The area north of the Trg Jelacic includes Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and its Gradec and Kaptol neighborhoods, which are perhaps Zagreb's most picturesque areas. Donji Grad (Lower Town) south of Trg Jelacic includes Zagreb's famous Green Horseshoe and runs south to the main train station. You can walk to most points of interest from Trg Jelacic, or hop on the public tram system for 7kn per ride. After that, The city's attractions are spread out. Mount Medvednica Nature Park and its Sljeme Peak in the hills north of town can be accessed from the square by taking tram no. 14 to the end of the line, and then tram no. 15 to its terminus. From there you can get a cable car to Sljeme's top. Mirogoj Cemetery is also north of the center and can be reached via the no. 106 bus from the cathedral. Novi Grad (New City) is an area of bland apartment towers and industry south of the Sava; except for Jarun Lake just north of the river and the airport, there isn't much to see here. Maksimir Park is an elegant wooded zone east of the center. It can be reached via tram nos. 4, 7, 11, and 12.

The Neighborhoods in Brief

Zagreb is easy to navigate via public transportation if you have a good map and know a few key Croatian terms so you can decipher directional signs on the trams and buses, but you can walk to almost everything of note, too. Most of Zagreb's attractions are in the city center, which is divided into "neighborhoods," each with a distinct character and connected by the city's main square, Trg Jelicica. Gornji Grad (Upper City), the area north of the square, is Zagreb's heart. It is divided along historical lines into Kaptol and Gradec, territory that was halved by a stream that is now Tkalciceva Street, home to Zagreb's cafe society and increasingly to chic designer shops and artists' ateliers.

Kaptol is both a neighborhood and a street in modern Zagreb. In medieval times, Kaptol was a town and was dominated by the clergy, while neighboring Gradec was a lay settlement. Today, Zagreb's neo-Gothic cathedral and church buildings are still situated in Kaptol. North of the cathedral, Kaptol is quickly becoming a trendy enclave where well-heeled young professionals shop, drink, dine, and mingle. Parts of Kaptol have been converted to a pedestrian mall, though motor scooters rarely pay attention to that legislation. Opatovina Street runs parallel to Kaptol north from the left of the Dolac market; its most interesting feature is the statue of Croatian comedian and social commentator Petrica Kerempuh at the bottom of the street.

Gradec is a hilly residential area dotted with stately mansions and leafy squares as well as some of the city's best galleries and museums. There is a tennis center in the northern section of the neighborhood plus several embassies and consulates and a few upscale restaurants. Gradec is a good place to see ornate homes built by Zagreb's 19th-century aristocrats as well as the only surviving city gate.

Trg Bana Jelacic is Zagreb's fulcrum: It seems that everything begins and ends in this plaza dominated by a statue of Ban Josip Jelacic seated on a proud horse with its tail in the air. Ban Jelacica was a 19th-century governor of Croatia who was much beloved by the people for his bravery. His statue is a focal point of the square and the space "under the tail" of the monument is a popular rendezvous spot for the Zagrebacka. The square is a wonderful place to start any city tour because many tram routes crisscross there, and it is within easy walking distance of Kaptol and Gradec, the Dolac market, and Tkalciceva Street.

Donji Grad (Lower Town) is south of Gradec, and it might seem like a solid block of buildings broken up by a few green spaces. Donji Grad begins at Trg Jelacic and includes Ilica Street, where designer shops are increasing in number every day. It ends at the main train station to the south. Draskoviceva is Donji Grad's eastern border, and Republika Austria the western border. In the middle of this section of the city, a U-shaped series of adjacent parks runs roughly from Trg Bana Jelacic south to the main train station, from there to the western end of the Botanical Gardens, then north to the end of Trg Marsala Tita. Known as the "Green Horseshoe" or Lenuci's Horseshoe, the public green spaces are dotted with galleries, museums, and schools.

Getting Around

By Tram or Bus -- Zagreb's electric tram system is quick, clean, efficient, and reliable, and it runs 24/7, although the frequency is reduced in the wee hours. New, air-conditioned, Croatian-made cars were added in 2007 on most routes, and they make riding public transportation comfortable. Tram routes cover central Zagreb and connect to buses that run to outlying areas and suburbs. Most lines go to the main train station, Trg Ban Jelacic, or both.

Tickets for both can be purchased at Tisak news kiosks for 7kn or on board for 9kn. Tickets are good for 90 minutes each way and must be validated with a time stamp at the orange machines on board. There are no conductors checking tickets, but there are random control checks. If you are caught without a ticket or with an unstamped ticket, the fine is 150kn on the spot, more if you don't have the money immediately.

There are maps of all tram and bus routes at stops and on most city maps, but if you aren't familiar with the city or the language, it can be difficult to figure out whether a given vehicle goes to your destination because only the final destination and a stop or two are listed on the tram or bus itself. Tip: Keep a map of the tram routes and one of Zagreb with you whenever using the system so you can locate the routes' end streets and determine if the tram is going in your direction. Almost none of the tram operators speaks English. Note: In the summer of 2009, we spotted newly erected signs pointing the way to museums, churches, and specific tourist attractions all over Zagreb. Some of these were at tram stops to help riders figure out which train to take.

By Taxi -- Taxis are expensive in Zagreb, even for short distances. Taxis charge a 25kn flat fee plus 7kn for every 3/5 mile. A 20% surcharge is added to that on Sunday and at night, which makes taxis a very expensive way to travel. However, if you must use a cab, you can call one at tel. 01/668-25-05. It's a good idea to try to negotiate a price for your trip before you hop in.

On Foot -- Walking is by far the best (and healthiest) way to see Zagreb. Crime in the city is low, and on foot you can safely get to almost any museum or restaurant in the central town within half an hour.