Attractions

The best -- and in some cases the only -- way to see Zagreb is on foot, with the occasional tram or bus ride. Almost everything in the city center is pedestrian-accessible and so are some of the sites farther afield. Gornji Grad (Upper Town) is flush with historical buildings and churches, restaurants, boutiques, monuments, and entertainment venues. Donji Grad (Lower Town) is strong on museums, parks, historic architecture, and shopping. Other attractions are a short ride from the center of town. Anton Dominik Fernkorn's statue of Ban Josip Jelacica is the centerpiece of Trg Bana Jelacica (Jelacic Square). It was created and installed on the square in 1866 and it stood there until World War II, when the square was renamed Republic Square. The statue was removed and stored in pieces when the powers-that-be determined that the square and monument had become a rallying point for Croatian nationalists, who were seen as a threat to the ruling Communist Party. It wasn't until 1990 that the statue was returned to its original home, and the square to its original name. Today Jelacic Trg is ringed by shops and cafes; other, smaller plazas radiate from it.

Kaptol

Marija Juric Zagorka -- The bronze statue of a woman in 19th-century dress carrying an umbrella is a showstopper for pedestrians on busy Tkalciceva Street. The sculpture was created by artist Stejepan Gracan and commemorates Zagorka, who was Croatia's first female journalist. Zagorka was born to a wealthy family in 1873 and was well-educated, but she still had a difficult time breaking into journalism. On the recommendation of Bishop J. J. Strossmayer, she was given a job on a local Zagreb paper, where she started on the editorial board and introduced the first Croatian publication exclusively for women. Zagorka also penned several well-received novels that are still read today. She died in 1957.

Gradec

Gradec is the second arm of central Zagreb's civic triumvirate. Less commercial than Kaptol, Gradec is packed with some of the city's most interesting museums and monuments.

Let There Be Light -- At night, Zagreb's Gradec neighborhood glows under the light of gas lamps. At promptly 7pm in the summertime, all 267 of the street fixtures are individually lighted by an old-fashioned lamp lighter.

Donji Grad (Lower Town)

Lenuci's Horseshoe -- The U-shaped block of parks and gardens that runs from Trg Bana Josip Jelacica to the main train station and back is known as Lenuci's Green Horseshoe, a flowing, tree-lined series of grassy areas, fountains, flower beds, monuments, and pavilions dotted with museums and galleries. According to Lenuci's 19th-century plan, the green strips and stately cultural palaces are strategically placed to break up the visual monotony of blocks and blocks of gray apartments and office buildings that characterize this part of town. The horseshoe cuts a green pattern through Lower Town and is home to such landmarks as the neo-Renaissance Academy of Sciences and Art, the neo-baroque Croatian National Theater, and the Botanical Gardens.

Tours

There isn't any compelling reason to take a formal tour of Zagreb because almost everything worth seeing is within walking distance of the main square or a short tram or bus ride away. However, if you want to inject some whimsy into your sightseeing, try one of the city's 2-hour-long costumed walking tours. A guide dressed like a famous person from Zagreb history will show you around and perhaps throw in a few little-known facts about the city and its sites. You can buy tickets at the Tourist Information Center on Jelacic Trg.

Andrijeviceva 12. tel. 01/370-35-53; 01/370-30-88. www.event.hr. 95kn ($16) per person. Tours leave from the Tourist Information Center on the square daily at 10am and 4pm.

Especially for Kids

Exploring Zagreb with children in tow can be challenging on a number of fronts. Ushering little ones across the open tram tracks, up and down steep cobbled streets, and through churches and museums that appeal mainly to interested adults and large groups of students can put a strain on parents and kids alike. Most of Zagreb's hotels and sights don't have any special extras for kids, though most offer a rate reduction for the younger set. Unlike hotels in Croatia's resort towns, Zagreb hotels have no all-day programs to keep younger kids amused, and no special facilities like arcades or Internet rooms for older ones. Very few restaurants have children's menus or highchairs, though most will do what they can for customers with children.

Some of the best bets for keeping kids amused in Zagreb are Maksimir Park and the Zagreb City Zoo. There are a couple of playgrounds with equipment in Maksimir, so kids can let off a little steam before heading back to the hotel. Bundek Park is a draw because of its river-fed lakes and a rather elaborate playground set up for kids. Jarun Lake south of the center is another option. Besides a beach, Jarun has paddle boats, playground equipment, and often some sports competitions like beach volleyball to keep kids entertained. Children might also enjoy Zagreb's cinemas. Most run American movies with English soundtracks and Croatian subtitles, so kids won't have any trouble understanding what's going on.