Active Pursuits

Zakopane is a natural jumping-off point for active pursuits of all sorts. In summer, the activity of choice is hiking in the mountains. Good hiking maps are available at the tourist information offices and at nearly any hotel or kiosk. Many of the best trails begin just a short walk from town.

A good hike of about 4 hours of moderate to heavy exertion and some awesome views begins from the Hotel Belvedere and follows the yellow trail along the Biala Valley (Dolina Bialego). After a 90-minute ascent, turn onto the black trail, following the signs for Stazyska Polana, and returning to Zakopane via the red trail along the Stazyska Valley. Another popular hike to a different part of the mountains is to follow the red trail to Morskie Oko, an Alpine lake in the far southern corner of Poland's share of the High Tatras. Most travel agencies in town offer packages that include transportation to the trail head to the east of Zakopane, but once you get off the bus you'll have to walk or take a horse cart (40zl/$17/£11) the 9km (5 1/2 miles) uphill to the lake.

In winter, the most popular hill for skiing is Kasprowy Wierch, with several slopes of all difficulty levels starting from here. To reach it, take a bus from Zakopane to Kuznice, and then by cable car to the peak.

Zakopane is also a good base for a rafting the Dunajec River, east of the Tatras along Poland's border with Slovakia. In nice weather, this is fabulous day out, especially for kids, on traditional timber boats, led by Górale mountain men kitted out in their folk garb. The boating center on the Polish side is at Sromowce Katy. The Info-Tour travel agency, Koscieliska 11b (tel. 018/206-42-64), is one of several agencies in Zakopane that arrange trips, including transportation, for about 100zl ($44/£27) a person.