Zhangmu is an expensive place to stay and there are few good options, although many rooms enjoy fine views over the gorge. The best choice is two-star Zhangmu Binguan (tel. 0892/874-2221), on the right-hand side just before the border. Rooms have wooden floors, good views, and clean bathrooms (with hot water 9:30-11:30pm). Standard rooms go for ¥300 to ¥380 depending on your bargaining prowess, while simple rooms without bathrooms cost ¥100. Another decent but overpriced choice is the Caiyuan Binguan (tel. 0892/874-5888; ¥350), a five minute walk uphill from the Zhangmu Binguan. Standard rooms are similar to those at the Zhangmu, but make sure to ask for a room with a view as they cost the same as those without. If you're not willing to spend that much on a standard room, then the Sherpa Hotel (tel. 0/135-1898-5853; ¥150 small standard room with bathroom; ¥80 standard room without bathroom), in between the Zhangmu and the Caiyuan has cleanish rooms with hot showers and many rooms have views.

Zhangmu has plenty of dining options. The friendly Himalaya Restaurant, next to the Zhangmu Binguan (tel. 0892/874-3068) is pricey, but does good Nepali set meals as well as tasty sandwiches and a delicious mushroom soup and is a nice place to relax before or after a trip to Nepal. The owners are from Gansu and also offer decent exchange for Chinese yuan, Nepalese rupees, and American dollars. A meal for two is about ¥80 to ¥100. Across the road the Base Camp Bar (tel. 0892/874-2882) is owned by a local climber who has summited Everest and accordingly the place is decked out from floor to ceiling with climbing gear. The menu spans the usual range of Chinese, Tibetan, Nepali, and Western, and the coffee is the best in town. Finally if you want some genuine Sichuan spice, Lhasa Restaurant (Lhasa Canting; tel. 0892/874-2436) next to the Post Office, serves all the usual favorites including gongbao jiding (spicy chicken with peanuts) and yuxiang rousi (fish-flavored pork).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.