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Known affectionately as Jeri, Jericoacoara in the northern Brazilian state of Ceará is remote and difficult to access, but after hours in a bus followed by the final 12-mile journey in a dune buggy, you'll be overjoyed that you made the effort. Not only is Jeri known as the home of Brazil's most incredible beaches, but it is an undeveloped, eco-protected haven for lovers of the pure outdoors. There are no paved roads, no cars (apart from dune buggies), no banks, no street lights and restricted use of electricity. What it lacks in modern conveniences, it certainly makes up for in sheer beauty. Undulating sand dunes dominate the landscape and you can choose to swim in the warm sea waters or in one of the crystal clear lagoons, surrounded by a national park.
Kitesurfing, sandboarding and windsurfing attracts enthusiasts from around the world, but days can also be spent horse-riding, exploring the dunes, rock formations and natural pools and visiting small villages like Mangue Seco and the fishing community of Guriu. Sunsets are spectacular with visitors making pilgrimage to a massive coastal dune to watch the festivities each evening. After the sun goes down, be mesmerized by the capoeristas practicing their rhythmic martial-arts-meets-dance at the base of the dune or learn to dance forró at an outdoor bar or club. The government has restricted construction here, so unlike other pristine areas at risk of development, it is unlikely the Jeri will change in the foreseeable future.
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Getting There
By Air: From New York, Delta, Continental, American Airlines, United and TAM Linhas Aereas (www.tam.com.br) fly non-stop daily to Sao Paulo's Guarulhos International Airport. TAM also flies non-stop daily from Miami and Chicago. From Sao Paulo, TAM Meridional Airlines (www.tamairlines.com) flies several times per day to Fortaleza's Pinto Martins International Airport. For the final leg, North Star Air Taxi (www.fortalezabeaches.com/flights-to-jericoacoara.html) makes the trip from Fortaleza by helicopter or private plane in an hour (plus the final 12 miles by 4WD).
By Land: Redenção Bus Company (tel. +55/85-3256-2728) operates buses from Fortaleza's Central Bus Station to Jijoca and then on to Jeri by converted 4WD vehicle, a distance of a little under 200 miles that can take approximately six hours.
Required Documents: U.S. citizens require a visa. Visas are available from the Brazilian Embassy (www.brasilemb.org) and from the eight Consular offices located in the U.S. A minimum of four business days is required to process visa applications, but visitors should try to apply 30 days before travel. Cost is $130 (price varies for other nationalities).
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Where to Stay
Simple and colorful rooms at Pousada Ibiscus (tel. +55/88-3669-2208; www.pousadaibiscus.com.br/1024/us/info.htm). Price: Inexpensive.
The beachfront Mosquito Blue (tel. +55/88-3669-203; www.mosquitoblue.com.br) is Jeri's largest and most stylish accommodation option. Price: Expensive.
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