Salvador Carnival in Bahia, Brazil

Far from the polished glitz and glamour of Rio de Janeiro's carnival and the accompanying media-feeding frenzy, Salvador's carnival has the sultry, intoxicating atmosphere of a true Brazilian street party.

It's not for the faint-hearted, though -- once you have been sucked into the crowd, you have to keep moving behind the trio elétrico (electric trios, named after the ensemble who launched the concept of playing electric guitars on moving trucks) until you find a gap to escape through. Jigging sweaty bodies are pressed together and opportunistic men plant kisses on passing beauties, so watch out ladies.

Two million revelers dance in blocos, blocks of people moving behind the trucks to homegrown axé music (a fusion of African/Brazilian/pop styles) and African-infused Samba rhythms. Fuelled by delicious spicy shrimps and potent cachaça cocktails, loyally sporting their blocos' bright-colored abadá; T-shirt, the carnival-goers are out to party until the bitter end. The abadá functions as the entrance ticket to each bloco, and ropes carried by a security team encircle members, who have access to a support truck with snack bar, toilets and an emergency unit.

Each bloco has its own character, history and followers. The most famous is the Filhos de Gandhy, or sons of Gandhy. Dressed in the white tunics and blue turbans of their West African ancestors, its members form the elite component of the Afro Blocos and have a loyal female fan base. Carnival in Brazil has its roots in the ancient Greek spring festivals, where masters and their slaves would exchange clothes and party for a day. Nowhere else will you still get such a sense of true Carnival culture as in Salvador, where one of the largest African populations in the Americas live in a setting of Portuguese colonial buildings.

When: Six days up to and including Ash Wednesday. All day, most days.

Insider tips: If you want to avoid the packed streets, rent a camarote, a carnival box along the parade route. Or head into the old colonial Pelourinho district to find more space, colorful marching bands and children in masks and costumes.

Stay with your group at all times, and don't wear jewelry or watches.

Wear trainers to avoid aching feet and to stop your toes getting trampled.

What else?: The now-worldwide Carnival tradition of blasting out music from trucks was born in Salvador in 1951, when three Bahian musicians jumped into the back of their pick-up truck to perform.

Get there: Salvador has an international airport, 32km (20 miles) from downtown Salvador.

Price: Free/Expensive.

Tickets and information: Free to watch. Go along to one of the Salvador Samba School registration sessions during Carnival to sign up for a bloco ticket, or buy from a local store such as Central do Carnaval and Axé Mix. Ask at the local tourist office when you arrive in Salvador for further details.

Portuguese language site (tel. +55 71 3176 4200; www.carnaval.salvador.ba.gov.br)

Unofficial site (www.bahia-online.net/Carnival.htm)

Salvador Tourism (www.emtursa.ba.gov.br)