The British Virgin Islands Turn Back the Clock on Caribbean Travel

The British Virgin Islands have a slogan, "Nature's Little Secrets," and the authorities want you to discover them for yourselves -- with a little bit of help from the locals and the tourist industry. There are 60 islands and cays, only 16 of them inhabited, and less than 23,000 people altogether, the majority (about 19,000) on Tortola, most of the rest on Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke or Anegada. They like to think they are "the sailing capital of the world," and for sure there's room for running around on the water. You should consider going now, before more development takes place, as rich people are buying up small islands while they're available. On one such island I visited, American developers have started a marina, 60 units selling for $2 to $4 million, with helicopter pads, a hotel, restaurant, spa and the like. Maybe the BVI isn't so secret any longer, and visiting here is expensive, as everything has to be imported, mostly from the United States.

But the real glory of the islands is the biodiversity of their blue water (oceanic) marine life, with over 160 species of fish; many around the reefs that totally surround Anegada. In addition, you can check out a rainforest on Tortola and wildlife said to be "roaming in droves" on Jost Van Dyke, perhaps. A BVI National Parks Trust (since 1961) has worked within the twenty park strong system to keep Mother Nature happy, restoring the population of roseate flamingos on Anegada over the past eight years, for example, and installing nearly 200 buoys to protect fragile coral reefs.

On Guana Island (see Lodging, below), most of which is a nature preserve, the Club there is closed to visitors in September and October, when scientists are invited in by the American owners to continue their research on this sanctuary. The island's director of the science program, Dr. Skip Lazall, says Guana has "the richest fauna known for an island of its size anywhere in the West Indies -- and probably in the world." There are at least 50 species of birds regularly seen, 14 species of reptiles and amphibians (I watched a giant iguana on the club lawn while breakfasting one morning), nesting leatherback turtles, 22 types of named butterflies, hundreds of plants and insects and, close inshore, more than 125 species of fish. You may also see the six roseate flamingos, blue heron, egrets, brown pelicans, the long-tailed frigatebird, mango hummingbirds and quail doves. The scientists come from The Conservation Agency and include scholars from Harvard, Yale and other institutions. One ornithologist decided to stay when it came time to return home to the Guangdong Institute of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, and now lives and works on the island year round.

According to the Ocean Futures Society, headed by Jean-Michel Cousteau, the BVI is "unlike much of the Caribbean in that no permanent physical structures can be built on the beach and no building can be taller than a palm tree."

You can get away from it all easily here, especially if you charter a boat, or even if you just stay put and then take ferry rides back and forth across the territory. (The BVI is an "internally self-governing overseas territory of the United Kingdom," with a governor appointed by Queen Elizabeth II.) The most important ferries are between Tortola and Virgin Gorda (three companies), from Tortola to Marina Cay, from Tortola to Jost Van Dyke and from Tortola to Peter Island.

Road Town, the capital, is like many other small Caribbean towns, so if like to be near the action, this is the place to headquarter, or at least on the island of Tortola somewhere. You will spend a lot of time at the resort you choose, so do your homework and enjoy your stay, but try to get out on the water and visit other islands, too.

"Treasure Island" is the nickname of Norman Island, owned by an American investor, who has a restaurant there and a posh resort on another island he owns, Guana. If you want to reach Norman Island (great for snorkeling, especially at The Caves) or some other spot, get together with others and charter a boat, preferably through your resort front desk. More on the place at www.normanisland.com.

A rite of passage for young women visiting the BVI until recently was jumping nude or partly so from the highest deck of the William Thornton, a party boat anchored in Pirates Bight on Norman Island. The boat is still a center for much dancing and drinking and festivities, but the jumping is said to be no longer allowed. That didn't keep a "pirate" from the party boat from cruising for customers at the restaurant on Norman Island the night I visited, but I agreed with some who preferred to party in daytime, the better to view the gorgeous scenery all around. Notable visitors in the past are said to have included Ted Kennedy, Richard Branson (owner of BVI's Necker Island), Keith Richards and Don Johnson, to mention only four. More information at www.williamthornton.com.

If possible, try to visit the Bitter End Yacht Club, an American-owned property that is, literally, at the fareastern end of the territory, reachable only by a short and free ferry ride (unless you count a footpath up in the rough hills along the way). You can get here easily by ferry from Tortola to Virgin Gorda's Spanish Town, then a 20-minute taxi ride to the Bitter End dock. You don't have to be a Yacht Club member to enjoy the facilities of the place. You can have a great lunch for $22, which includes a full buffet and one entrée such as conch fritters, or ditto at dinner for $39.95 to $50, depending on your choice of entrees. You can buy a day package that gives you the lunch, changing facilities/showers, use of the pool and a snorkel trip (the latter twice a day) as well as the taxi fare on Virgin Gorda, for just $50. There are 13 kinds of boats you can rent (from $40 for the first hour), and you can attend the Sailing School here, a three-hour lesson costing only $25. Scuba dives run from $70 and up. There's also a Spa! They call themselves "the finest water sports resort in the world," and I thought during my recent visit they might well be that. Contact them at tel. 800/872-2392; www.beyc.com.

The well fit might like trying The Baths on Virgin Gorda, a combination of rock climbing and wading like, perhaps, no other. Formed, geologists say, by volcanic activity, the Baths are a jumble of huge boulders strewn along the seashore through which you can climb, crawl, scramble and squeeze, while getting wet up to the waist and dodging gringo traps (such as unexpected tree branches which you hit with your head while focusing on where to put your feet among the broken rocks down there). I was disappointed to learn the British Royal Marine commandos do not use this as a training ground, as I think it would be perfect for the purpose. Your reward for this workout are two or three spots -- including a lovely beach -- for very pleasant swimming. Of course, you can also get to these beaches by boat and avoid the obstacle course, but for many, the challenge is half the fun. Location: southwest corner of Virgin Gorda.

Lodging

Of Guana's 850 acres, only 50 are occupied by the Club, which seems quite naturally part of the lush scenery where it is sited. The rest of the island has intentionally been left in its natural state, untouched except by the 22 scenic hiking trails for guests. Guana has been a private club since 1935, under the present ownership of Americans and dedicated conservationists Henry and Gloria Jarecki since 1975. While rooms are attractive and comfortable, there is none of that overboard luxury that is so often out of place in the tropics, such as carpeting, Architectural Digest décor and frou-frou. You can be quite comfortable here if you don't absolutely have to watch a TV reality show or play golf. Moreover, the lunches are fabulous buffet affairs, and at breakfast you can have daily specials or omelets made by the chef and there is always plenty of fresh fruit as well as an attentive server on hand. Your bedroom and balcony overlook endless water views below, and you can hike (22 marked trails, 12 miles in all), play tennis, swim on a wonderfully-shaded beautiful beach (there are seven beaches) or visit the island's own orchard. You can use their small sailboats, pedal boats, kayaks, windsurfers, snorkel gear or water skis free of charge, or rent motorboats (with boatman). They arrange day trips to other islands, castaway picnics and sunset cruises. Topping it off is a bright, young American manager, Jason Goldberg, who loves the islands as much as he says you surely will. Rates for a double room run from $695 through $1,085 per day, including three meals, wine at lunch and dinner, and all on-Island activities. There are 16 double rooms, but if you can afford it, try the North Beach Cottage here, the only house on its Atlantic side beach, for a consummate hideaway. (Cottage rates $1,390 to $1,990 per day. You can rent the entire island for groups up to 36 persons starting at $18,500 per day and up.) For reservations, contact Guana Island, 10 Timber Trail, Rye NY 10580, tel. 914/967-6050, email guana@guana.com, website www.guana.com.

You'll feel as though you are visiting a rich man's private villa when you stay at the Arundel Villa, and that's because you are and it is. The Arundel has just four units, one by the pool, one downstairs and two more beyond the living room. You'll find about ten pillows on your bed (and a teddy bear), air conditioning or ceiling fan, TV, radio, phone and other modern amenities, as well as a huge shower and striking African woodcarvings around you. You'll find them, that is, if you can reach the Villa itself, located at the end of a rough-and-tumble dirt road high up on the hill overlooking Cane Garden Bay. Co-owner Peter Willard says the road is kept like that for security and to keep the paparazzi away. Gorgeous views from the pool area, looking down on the bay and over toward Jost Van Dyke and St. John's (the latter in the U.S. Virgin Islands). Weekly rates per room run from $3,400 to $7,400, depending on season. You can reach them at tel. 800/862-7863 or 202/554-8880, email arundelbvi@aol.com, website www.arundelbvi.com. The property is one of 47 private villas in the BVI represented by My Private Paradise, a group of owners who can be reached at www.myprivateparadise.com, email info@myprivateparadise.com.

Down near Road Town on Little Apple Bay, a good choice is the Sugar Mill Hotel, with double rooms ranging from $255 to $340, depending on season. You can have two meals a day (breakfast and choice of lunch or dinner) for an extra $70 per day per person. Phone them at tel. 800/462-8834 (Canada 800/209-6874), email sugmill@surfbvi.com, website www.sugarmillhotel.com.

If you can get to privately-owned Norman Island (boat the only way), you're invited to lunch or dinner at the Pirates Bight, open on all sides but roofed, where the menu features Conch Fritters at $10.25, fish of the day at $24.50 or at lunch burgers and sandwiches starting at $9.50. I had tasty lemon ginger shrimp for my entrée, the regular shrimp going for $22.50, while watching groups of pirate-costumed, rubber sword-waving guests. It's right at the island's main dock. The owner of the 610-acre Norman Island, an American who also owns Guana Island, and local legend each say this is the Treasure Island of Robert Louis Stevenson's novel. More information at www.normanisland.com.

On Tortola, probably the most elegant dining spot is the Sugar Mill Restaurant, in the hotel of the same name, utilizing what was once the boiling room of a rum distillery. You might try the goat cheese croquettes at $9, or the main course I liked, lobster risotto with wild mushrooms and lemon cream sauce at $35. A typical BVI fish dish is grouper, here served with a seared watermelon sauce and balsamic reduction at $33. My shrimp gumbo was nicely spiced, but had far too few shrimp in it at $11. There's a very good wine list. I found the tropical weather made chilled whites more refreshing than tepid reds throughout my stay. Little Apple Bay, tel. 284/495-4355, website www.sugarmillhotel.com.

Pusser's (a corruption of the word "purser's") is probably the most famous name in the British Virgin Islands, and there are restaurants, bars and stores selling food, grog and clothing, in that order, starting in 1979. They also own an island (Marina Cay), off the east end of Tortola, and run a small hotel there, with bar and restaurant. The mother ship, or at least the most glamorous and accessible spot, is their West End restaurant, Pusser's Landing, where you can dine splendidly and sample their famous Painkiller, a concoction of rum, orange and pineapple juices and cream of coconut with grated nutmeg on top. I hated it, as I believe the coconut milk overpowers the other flavors, but they serve it in an attractive special metal cup which you can have for $5.50 on top of the $8.25 cost of the drink.

At Pusser's Landing, I tried curried shrimp at $26.95, but suggest you ask for it extra hot, as mine was only mildly spicy, and baby back ribs as an appetizing starter for $9.95. My dining partners praised the rack of lamb (8 chops) at $33. At Pusser's Store & Pub on Main Street in downtown Road Town, conch fritters go for $9.95, fish & chips for $14.45 and a small pizza for $9.95. More information on the Pusser's empire at www.pussers.com.

Next door to Pusser's Store & Pub on the main drag in Road Town is Le Cabanon, trying hard to preserve France's heritage in an Anglo atmosphere. Favored dishes here run from camembert flambé in calvados at $11 and escargot $10 for starters and a duck confit main course at $25 or veal sweetbreads at $29. Le Cabanon can be reached at tel. 284/494-8660.

Shopping

There are many small shops, but one I liked was the Sunny Caribbee Spice Shop & Gallery, right on Main Street in Road Town on Tortola. Original art, sauces, seasonings and more. Check them out at www.sunnycaribbee.com.

Notes

Be advised that the official currency of the BVI is the US dollar, and the electricity is 110 volts AC. And be sure to save at least $20 for a departure tax at the airport if you leave by plane, $7 if you leave by sea and $7 if you are a cruise ship passenger.

Contacts

Much more information can be found in Frommer's Virgin Islands, which covers both the US and British Virgins extensively. The official tourism website of the BVI is www.bvitourism.com, and they have offices in these North American cities: New York (tel. 212/696-0400); Los Angeles (tel. 213/736-8931) and in Kennesaw, GA (tel. 770/874-5951). The email for all the BVI Tourist Board offices is info@bvitourism.com.

There are still a few spots left in the popular Key West Travel Writing Workshop run by our own Bob Fisher this coming January and February. For more than 15 years, Fisher has been teaching the basics to small classes and happily reports that some of his former students have gone on to careers publishing in magazines, newspapers and books.

Talk with fellow Frommer's readers on our Virgin Islands Message Boards.