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What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Switzerland

New clubs and restaurants in Geneva, more ways to get outdoors in Lausanne, trend-spotting in Zurich West, and more developments from central Europe.



By Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince
September 9, 2008

Zurich

More and more diners are discovering the cafes and restaurants of the increasingly trendy Zurich West. A converted warehouse, Rosso (Geroldstrasse, off Hardstrasse; tel. 043/8182254) uses the old loading docks as terraces for dining. Discovered by media types, artists and the fashionistas of Zurich, Rosso specializes in pizzas with paper-thin crusts, savory pasta dishes, and it has one of the best cartes for Italian wines in Zurich. Guests sit at communal tables.

Another "in" spot in Zurich West is Café Spheres (Hardturmstrasse 66; tel. 043/4406622), where Zurichers head for drink, snacks, and relaxation. The café is lined with books and magazines. In summer a grill is set up in the rear, turning out steaks, sausages, and chicken.

If you want to stay wired in Zurich, head for Jeux Las Vegas (rue du Mont-Blanc 26; tel. 044/7385744), between the main rail station and McDonald's, which offers 30 desktops, plus accessible USB ports and CD ports.

Basel

Biking is becoming more and more popular for those who want to explore the seemingly endless tiny streets of this old city. Catering to that increasing trend is Cenci Bikes (51 Clarastrasse; tel. 061/6818808), renting 8- or 24-speed Crestas.

Even locals tire of a too constant diet of Swiss cuisine and are flocking to Jay's Indian Restaurant (13 St. Johanns-Vorstadt; tel. 061/6813681). A wide selection of savory dishes is offered here, although the tandoori chicken with lime-flavored king prawns and samosas seems to get the most requests. The vegetarian will find comfort here with such dishes as fried okra flavored with coconut and cumin. Locals are learning new and different ways to eat lamb, including a version prepared with yogurt and almond sauce. We'd also recommend the tempting fish curry flavored with coriander.

The Valais

Verbier, an alpine ski village, has seen the opening of The Lodge (www.thelodge.virgin.com), Richard Branson's latest addition to his globe-trotting playgrounds. The nine-room chalet features a small ice rink, indoor pool, and 24-hour chauffeur. Nine beautifully furnished guest rooms are supplemented by a bunk room for six kids. A very skilled staff of 10 is on hand to tend to your every need. Guests chill out in the outdoor Jacuzzi, or else are pampered in the spa. There's also a wide selection of menus prepared with market-fresh ingredients. The cost is US$1,330 per person for 3 nights, based on two adults sharing one bedroom.

In Zermatt, in the shadow of the Matterhorn, the Omnia (Auf dem Fels; tel. 027/9667100; www.the-omnia.com) has opened in this chic resort. Billed as a modern interpretation of a traditional mountain lodge, the 30-room hotel looks different from the traditional wooden chalets in the area. It appears more like a quintessentially American concept, and was, in fact, designed by Ali Tayar, a New York-based architect. Both European and American designers joined forces to create the warm, handcrafted interiors, including the bedrooms, 12 of which are suites. Rooms open onto private balconies for viewing the Matterhorn. There's also a sun terrace for après ski, and many amenities, especially an indoor-outdoor pool. The first-class, on-site restaurant is noted for its creative cuisine combined with regional specialties.

Lausanne & Lake Geneva

This is the headquarters of the International Olympic Committee, and the city continues to maintain its reputation as an outdoor sports mecca. Because of the winds blowing across Lake Geneva (Europe's largest lake), conditions are ideal for windsurfing. Surf Shop (1 av. De la Plage; tel. 076/8021616) is now the best place to go to be fitted with the right board. In addition, Ciels Bleus (2 place du Vieux-Port; tel. 076/3663949) rents motorboats and features waterskiing and wakeboarding expeditions.

The rue Marterey in Lausanne is packed with trendy bistros, many of them new. Generating a lot of press these days is our favorite, Java (36 rue Marterey; tel. 076/3213837; www.lejava.ch), drawing an artsy crowd with its traditional menu. It's great for people watching, and most of the clientele is young. The chef's specialty is onglet de boeuf. Other good selections include an osso bucco of pork and tagliatelle with fresh morels. You might also sample the roast chicken in a tarragon-laced cream sauce.

Geneva

Near the Geneva airport, the Crowne Plaza (34 route Francois-Peyrot; tel. 022/7470202; www.crowneplaza.com) is not the most architecturally distinguished hotel in this highly competitive city but it is definitely first rate and most serviceable. Rather American in feeling, it offers spacious bedrooms, many ideal for traveling families. A bus ride whisks you into the center of Geneva in just minutes. The best feature of the modern hotel is its heated swimming pool with kickboards and water wings. Also on site is a first-rate health and fitness center.

Mexican food and South-of-the-Border music are not associated with Geneva. But with the opening of Manana (3 rue Chaponnière; tel. 022/7322131; www.manana.ch), tortillas, tostadas, nachos, and guacamole have arrived. The cooks even prepare a not bad chile con carne. Vegetarian plates such as burritos and fajitas are also served. Many locals have come here to sample Mexican food for the first time. Not all reviews have been favorable from neophyte consumers of Mexican food. "Refried beans or corn on the cob are not my thing," said one Swiss diner, "but I was intrigued by the Tequila parfait."

After dark, head for the Platinum Glam Club (18 quai du Seujet; tel. 022/7266941; www.platinum-club.ch), with its white sofas and VIP lounges. Its pulsating dance floor is one of the chicest in town, attracting a crowd whose ages often range from 25 to 40. Lying along the Rhône, the club hires the best DJs in Geneva. The program ranges from thumping techno to Middle East belly dance music.

Vals

In the alpine village of Vals, Hotel Therme (7132 Vals/GR; tel. 081/9268080; www.therme-vals.ch), has become all the rage. The spa itself was designed by Peter Zumthor, using 60,000 slabs of quartzite stone. In addition to boasting the only mineral thermal spa in the area, the hotel also has treatment rooms, Jacuzzis, and a total of six indoor and outdoor pools (both hot and cold). In addition to all that, the cuisine, under the direction of Urs Dietrich, is also the best in the area. Exquisitely prepared, the market-fresh, creative cuisine often appears in some surprising combinations.


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