What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Israel

What's New in Israel

At a time when international travel has taken a hit due to the recession, Israel's tourism is thriving. 2008 was a record year, and experts predict that the boom will continue throughout 2009, as long as the political situation in the Middle East doesn't take a serious downward turn. Why are travelers pouring into Israel during these tough economic times? First, although the US dollar has fallen about 17% against the Israeli shekel since 2007, Israel remains relatively affordable, compared to most destinations in Europe. Second, millions of visitors who postponed travel to Israel during the years of the Second Intifada (2000-2005) have now decided to make the trip, and so far the usual ups and downs of politics in the region don't seem to be stopping them. Third, an easing of visa requirements and new tourism arrangements have made it possible for hundreds of thousands of travelers and pilgrims from Eastern Europe, Africa, and Asia to visit Israel for the first time. The Off-season deals abound, and, as always, any Middle East crisis could stop the tourism boom in its tracks and bring back all kinds of bargain deals for intrepid travelers.

Planning Your Trip to Israel

The exchange rate between the US Dollar and the Israeli Shekel (NIS) remains as calculated in Frommer's Israel, 5th Edition, at approximately NIS 4 to the dollar. The British Pound, however, has fallen against the Israeli shekel, and now runs a bit less than NIS 6 to the pound. Meanwhile, off-season, winter airline discounts have popped up despite the continuing tourism boom. Fares vary greatly, so it pays to check around. Delta Airlines, with its new direct, non-stop route between JFK Airport and Tel Aviv, has announced 4 additional flights a week on this popular new route, in anticipation of continued high tourism to Israel. Delta, unlike El Al, does fly to and from Israel on the Jewish Sabbath. US Airways, also responding to Israel's tourism boom, is planning its first ever non-stop Philadelphia-Tel Aviv route that may be operative by June, 2009. All airlines have drastically raised their frequent flier requirements, so if you've been saving points for a trip to Israel, check the new rules. In many cases, you'll need double the points that were required a year ago. At press time, Israir, a slightly cut-rate airline, has ceased operations on its New York-Tel Aviv route.

Settling Into Jerusalem

The heart of downtown West Jerusalem is currently dotted with construction. New building projects and landmarks are being created that will change the face of the city for the rest of the 21st century. As with most innovations in Jerusalem, these new landmarks have been subject to local and international controversy.

Most noticeable is the ongoing construction of the Jerusalem Light Rail system, which has torn up much of downtown West Jerusalem's Jaffa Road, and diverted the many municipal bus routes from Jaffa Road (the main shopping and transportation thoroughfare) to other streets, confusing tourists and Jerusalemites alike. While construction drags on and on, the many shops, restaurants and cafes of the Ben Yehuda-Jaffa Road area are suffering -- some have closed or made plans to move elsewhere, at least temporarily. At the same time, many of the quaint but neglected 19th century Jaffa Road buildings are scheduled to be replaced with multi-story office blocks. For good or for ill, downtown West Jerusalem's center will never be the same.

Meanwhile, on Agron Street near King David Street, you'll see construction crews working on one of Jerusalem's long-ignored architectural treasures -- the lavish former Regent Palace Hotel. Built in 1929, but used for government offices since World War II, it's being totally renovated into a world class, super-luxury hotel. Two new, much-needed moderately priced hotels opened in Jerusalem during 2008 and are getting great reviews from Frommer's readers. The Harmony Hotel (www.atlas.co.il), run by the very creative Atlas Hotels Chain, is located right on the Yoel Salomon Pedestrian Mall in the heart of downtown Jerusalem -- it even offers late-afternoon complimentary snacks A bit more luxurious, the Dan Boutique (www.danhotels.com) is in a quieter part of town, and offers a wide variety of room sizes and set ups that are great for groups and families.

Chakra (tel. 02/625-2733), Jerusalem's dazzling, eclectic restaurant, has moved to 41 King Gerorge Street, south of HaMa'a lot Street. It's somewhat hidden away under the Cup of Joe Café, but the new location is charming, and raises Chakra to 3 Stars in Frommer's rating system.

La Guta a kosher French/North African fine dining choice, has moved from its downtown area location to a delightful old stone bungalow at 34 Bethlehem Road; (tel. 02/623-2322) in the Baka/German Colony about 2 miles south of Jaffa.

Exploring Jerusalem

Just outside the walls of the Old City, the sleek, new, multi-story Alrov-Mamilla Shopping Mall allows you to browse a range of high end to el cheapo clothing shops, do your pharmacy shopping, and stop in at branches of Jaffa Road cafes as you approach the ancient walls of the Holy City. Visitors and Jerusalemites either love it or hate it, but it's guaranteed to become a major Jerusalem focal point. Elevators can take you from underground parking to the shopping levels, and before you know it, you're face to face with the historic Jaffa Gate.

At the juncture of Hillel and Rivlin Streets, the Simon Wisenthal Center in Los Angeles is sponsoring construction of a Museum of Tolerance, to be housed in a dramatic edifice designed by Frank Gehry. Legal challenges to the construction of the museum from the Mamilla Cemetery, a venerable Muslim burial site, may delay the opening of the complex, but a 2010 debut is planned.

The Israel Museum, the country's extraordinary repository of archeological treasures, Judaica, and international art, continues to undergo major renovations, and most of the museum remains closed at least through mid 2009. Check the museum web site (www.imj.org.il) to see what's open, and what exhibits are being shown at other Israel Museum venues in Jerusalem such as Ticho House and the Rockefeller Museum.

Tel Aviv

2009 is the 100th anniversary of the founding of this stylish and fun-loving metropolis by the sea. To keep up with special centennial events, check with the Israel Ministry of Tourism website, www.goisrael.com.

The new, affordable Art + Hotel (www.atlas.co.il) offers small but freshly renovated guest rooms at a central location on Ben Yehuda Street just a block from the beach.

In Tel Aviv's fine dining scene, the trendy Orca has closed, but a sleek, luxury restaurant, Herbert Samuel, in Beit Gabor, 6 Kaufman St.; (tel. 03/516-6516) now has the last word in Tel Aviv's stylish cuisine galaxy, serving much of its food in elegant tapas-style presentations. This ultra-modern restaurant is the creation of one of Israel's legendary chefs, Jonathan Roshfeld.

The Golden Coast

The atmospheric ancient port town of Akko, known for its great Arabic bazaars and harbor side restaurants, now sports a charming boutique hotel. The Akkotel Hotel (www.akkotel.com) is located in a restored mansion literally built into the walls of the Old City. It's moderate to upper moderate in price and run by a devoted Akko family that offers cheerful, personal attention.

Haifa

If you're searching for a fresh, moderately priced hotel, the soon to be open Colony Hotel, 28 Ben Gurion Blvd.; (tel. 04/851-3344; www.colony-hotel.co.il) located in Haifa's restored 19th century German Colony (at the foot of Mount Carmel) promises to be worth looking into. The Colony is set in an atmospheric stone mansion, with 40 rooms, a garden and a good range of in-room amenities.

For budget travelers, the neighboring family-run Haddad Guest House, 26 Ben Gurion Blvd, German Colony, Haifa; (tel. 052/235-4283; www.haddadguesthouse.com), a combination guest house/private hostel, offers 11 simple rooms with private bath and kitchen facilities. The German Colony lacks the vistas from the top of Mt. Carmel, but it offers dramatic views of the Bahai Shrine and Gardens as well as a growing community of stylish restaurants and cafes.

Galilee

Innovative former Tel Avivian Maoz Yinon has made Nazareth's Old City and surrounding countryside accessible to travelers with his beautifully planned Jesus Trail walks and hikes (www.jesustrail.com) and his simple but atmospheric hostel, Fauzi Azar Inn (tel. 04/602-0469; www.fauziazarinn.com), set in a 19th century old city mansion. Now he's opened the slightly more upmarket Al Mutran (tel. 052/722-9090; www.fauziazarinn.com), located in another carefully renovated old Nazareth mansion, offers a variety of larger family rooms and more amenities. Both boast very knowledgeable personal attention and great tips for travelers.

A Side Trip to Petra

For those looking for an interesting way to spend a long evening in Petra, the Petra Kitchen in Wadi Musa, just at the entrance to the Petra National Park (tel. 962-3-215-7900; kitchen@petramoon.com) is a popular option that is part cooking lesson, part party. Guests participate in preparing the traditional Arabic dishes they'll be dining on, and after dinner, they can take home recipes for the dishes they've helped to cook. The food and ambiance can be inconsistent, depending on both the other dinner guests and the cooking teachers, but for the adventurous, this can be a fun night out in the wilds of Petra. There are many nice touches, supplied by a local women's cooperative. The price runs about $50 per person. Reservations are necessary.

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