Berlin -- a city that survived Hitler, a divisive wall and the Cold War -- has grown into its own. The thoroughly modern, architecturally savvy, post-war Berlin is all-but-unrecognizable: it's now an enclave for artists, musicians and filmmakers galore. Adding to the glam, this modern-day hipster's paradise boasts an illustrious, wee-hours club scene and plenty of legit dining destinations.
And you don't have spend your live savings to eat in Berlin -- and you need not limit yourself to a diet of sauerkraut, schnitzel and sausage since under-the-radar, multi-culti eats -- nestled into neighborhoods Berlin-wide -- abound.
For the best bargains, check out an imbiss, Germany's version of a fast-food stall, located on most every populated corner. They're where you'll find some of the Berliners' favored fast foods, such as currywurst and Turkish doner kebabs. One to check out is under-the-U-Bahn Konnopke's Imbiss (Schönhauser Allee 44a; tel. 011/49/30/4427765; www.konnopke-imbiss.de) for the aforementioned curry ketchup-topped sausages, ordered with or without darm (the intestine casing). On the other hand, fab falafel and halloumi can be scored from Nil Sudanesischer Imbiss (Grünberger Str. 52; tel. 011/49/30/29047713; www.nil-imbiss.de).
Of course, if you're in Mitte, scoot over to the restaurant-populated Hackescher Markt and Oranienburger Strasse areas where you'll no doubt encounter park-backdropped Nola's am Weinberg (Veteranenstr. 9; tel. 011/49/30/44040766; www.nola.de), the city's go-to place for Swiss fondue and other hearty, chalet-worthy fare.
Not to be forgotten is Kreuzberg -- Berlin's artsy 'hood -- which is home to the city's greatest concentration of ethnic restaurants. A good place to begin digging in is Hasir (Adalbertstrasse 10; tel. 011/49/30/6142373, www.hasir.de), a family-run Turkish joint serving lamb shish kabob, hummus, and warm kuver flatbread. For butter, tikka, or vindaloo-style chicken, there's always Amrit (Oranienstraße 202-203; tel. 011/49/30/6125550; www.amrit.de). And if fire is your thing, there's always super-cheap Thai food from Mai Thai Imbiss (Zossener Str. 13; tel. 011/49/30/6940635).
If gritty scenes aren't your thing, know other options do exist. Charlottenburg, by contrast, feels tony, although you'd never know it when dining at the approachable, German-tinged Frenchie Dressler (Kurfurstendamm 207-208; Charlottenburg; tel. 011/49/30/20450655; www.restaurant-dressler.de), a seasonally minded brasserie offering oysters on the half-shell and steak frites. Craving a meat-centric meal? Go Brazilian at churrascaria Brasil Brasileiro (Kurfuerstendamm 151; Charlottenburg; tel. 011/49/30/89409889; www.brasil-brasileiro.de), where spit-roasted meats (and salsa beats) are king.
Of course, everyone needs to indulge a bit when on a trip. For that, our money's on über-hip Grill Royal (Friedrichstrasse. 105b, 10117 Friedrichstrasse; tel. 011/49/30/28879288; www.grillroyal.com), Berlin's best place to watch the world go by. The moody, red-lamp-lit, carvernous space preps mean Argentine, Austrian, Irish, and French steaks worth shelving diets for. Go for broke by ordering a dollop of morel sauce on the side. And be sure to visit the black-lit bathrooms before you leave.
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